Could also go for Yamaha WXA-50. Should be decent and not much moneys.
I might be the 1% but if you have good speakers that are like +1k$. To begin even looking at ~100$ amps with Bluetooth?
I would look the for cleanest possible amp with power arround 80-100w in same price range with sub-out with today’s streaming options. But that’s just me.
It’s like you buying +2k$ wheels for your car and then wrapping them with shittyest and cheapest china tires there are… well cause that’s whats left.
If you’re open to using a separate DAC/preamp, I use a Crown XLS1002 for my LS50s in nearfield. ALL of the power you will ever need even if you switch to a full room setup, and while they aren’t 100% silent, I’ve never been bugged by the noise floor. You really have to make out with the speaker in a silent room to even notice that it’s there, in my experience…and an otherwise clean and transparent sound.
Hi there! How much are you willing to spend? LS50 is a power hungry speaker despite the size. On a desktop setup though will be fine with 50 good watts. Look for well built amps with plenty of current and well built power supply instead of class D with hundreds of watts. I would suggest you the Arcam A19 if you can find it second hand Or in general to this league of amps. This is my personal opinion, I think that there are good class d amps out there but usually the good ones are quite expensive.
I know I’m late to the party but I’ve recently got a pair driven by the Topping MX3. I have them bunged as I have a tiny room but they sound beautiful to me, they are my first set of expensive (for me!) speakers and chuffed to bits with them
That’s a negative. You’re more likely to fry a speaker by UNDER powering them. An under powered amp will clip the signal if turned up beyond its capabilities. Clipping = straight DC to your speakers. DC = kablammo.
Also, for sound quality you want more power. An amp’s abilities are not linear - that is, it’s ability to produce a proper signal are not the same at all power levels. All amps have a sweet spot and it’s usually at the lower end of their power spectrum.
Yes, this. For class ab, more power allows your speakers to stay using pure class a for more volume rather then have to dig into b, and for class d, it’s not as big of a difference, but it can prevent high levels of distortion by moving the threshold forward.
Tube amps can be a little different, but typically more power = good. Although, if your locked for budget, I’d rather get a lower power higher quality amp then a cheap powerful one.
If you are talking about overdriving the amplifier to clipping, then sure you’d damage the speakers. But I was talking about overdriving a speaker by 50W in the bit you choose to cite which would not be a negative. I think you are citing another example of how to damage speakers and not disproving my statement.
But, if you are only talking about powering speakers sufficiently while still getting the desired performance out of them, then there should be no issue. Yes, you have reduced headroom over what the speakers are capable of, but if you do not clip the amp, then there isn’t an issue. In this use case of a sensitivity of 85 dBW, a 50W amp should be able to drive the speakers to 97 dB at 1 meter.
Sonically there would be detriments to not playing music loud enough as in the extremes of the frequency sound rolled off, but again that is different than clipping an amplifier. PS Audio Paul explains this phenomenon well enough here: https://youtu.be/cNZP2E0_RKU
But at most reasonable listening volumes, you can use a less powerful amp on moderately to very efficient speakers without an issue. But you are correct, never clip an amp.
This is mostly true, but you also have to account for measurements of each amp and how they react to outputting more power vs how distortion and other artifacts that may occur react.
You may be able to drive the speakers to high spl at max output for a 50 watt rms amp, but it may noticeably distort even with reasonable volume levels depending on the quality of the amp, so I would say that as long as you aren’t getting distortion you are fine
Each amp will react different depending on what technology it uses and how it was designed, so that’s something to check first
Agreed, notable distortion at reasonable volumes would be an issue much like how compression at higher volumes typically is, but I’d argue that this examples would be a poor design or defective units.
While topologies do differ in what they tend to do, I do not think there is as much of a difference as there once was and that a well designed class d can be as good as a well designed class ab amp , and vice-versa.
I agree that the gap between class ab and class d has pretty much realistically closed besides the ultra high end, I still have seen some budget amps that can only use around 60-70% of their rated power before hitting noticeable distortion. Will everyone notice this, probably not, but it’s still there. I usually figure that if a more budget oriented class d is rated for 50 watts rms, 35 watts will be at acceptable distortion levels. Just something to take into account.
Amp compression is pretty different, so I don’t think Ill touch on that
Sorey to derail topic - seeking advice but don’t want to open a new thread specifically!
I have an XPA2 Gen2 on my desk - has anyone powered LS50s with the Emotiva? If so, what are your thoughts?
In the same position as @Fysicall.
Looking for a desktop amp for my LS50’s in Europe.
Size doesn’t matter.
Used nearfield most of the time, but sometimes I turn it up …
I would pick one of these because I think they are a better value for your money. These Amplifiers are true HiFi Components with great sound
IOTAVX should be a better choice for a room
Just discovered your Edit now…
I would go with the integrated option. A matching preamp is very important for good sound.
I’m not really an expert with budget stuff but I heard the SA3 several times and was really impressed by it. I would definitely choose it over Crown or Emotiva (value isn’t that great considering import tax). You are getting a lot for your money with the SA3. @M0N any further suggestions?
I made the comparison with and without the power amp on the Buchardt S400 and the difference is not particularly big in a small room. The LS50 are very efficient and the performance should be more than sufficient. If you lack punch in the bass or you want to try something new, you can still add the PA3. But then I would still think more about a subwoofer than about the Poweramp on the LS50.
There is always something better like a Naim Nait 5si for your LS50 but for now the SA3 is a very good amplifier.