Well, I don’t have a speaker amp. Would need a PS and a new control board for the unit I suppose.
I would just take it apart and have a peak inside. Could be that it is some neat modular design with clear labels on the circuit board(s).
After that, you can decide where you want to go.
We already found the schematics:
I was direct messaging with @TkSilver and he stated it’s not modding friendly at all and I would need to replace both the PS and the CB. Well, you can take your own look.
EDIT: I took it from the cellar so I am about to disassemble it and will post some pics here.
I’m in EU. No Monoprice sells here.
Most Philips made/branded stuff is quite easy to repair or modify.
Will take a look when I find time.
Edit:
May be a lot easier than I thought
Just for the fun of DIY i would proceed.
On the other hand… soundbar subs (added bass in a box) are pretty terrible compared to proper subs.
So, as the service manual clearly states, the Powerboard gets Left and Right audio in through a 7-pin connector (together with some control voltages).
That connector is this one:
Pinout:
Leaves to figure out what state Standby (= STB) and Mute need to be in for it to operate 
Yeah that’s the obvious thing. But, yeah, it’s fun to mod stuff. And it’d probably be a lot cheaper and better than no sub.
guess 0 and 0. I would imagine if the standby was 1 it would go into standby to save power and mute 1 would just mute the sound, but being prepared to unmute immediately. At least, that’s what common sense would tell me.
I meant what voltage. 3.3V? 5V? 12V?
Oops. Well, I don’t know, maybe you can get that from the schematic for the radio board as that’s from where the other side of the cable to the 7-pin connector ends.
power board
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I would guess 3.3V, but without specs for “HMX6026E1”, hard to be certain.
Edit:
with the 4.7 to 1 voltage divider, almost anything is fine, so 5 V maybe?
Took some more picks. Don’t know if that could help.
The 7P connector up close
The other end of the cable, ending in the radio board. The other 3pin connector is just for the LED.
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No datasheets to be found online, yeah, a bummer.
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Any plan on how am I supposed to mod it then?
A few years ago I modified this sub, If memory serves, that’s how it worked.
It has a pretty powerful amp delivering around 120 watts to the speaker and working in the 30-120 Hz range.
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I’m trying to do exactly this same thing to a Klipsch ICON unit. Being an absolute noob and 57 years old I struggle with understanding both the systems and the abbreviations on these ICs. 
Can an interested party clue me in to which of these pins carry the audio signal and what to do with the other ones?
Can an interested party clue me in to which of these pins carry the audio signal and what to do with the other ones?
What does it say above the header?
As for what the header does, good question.
