šŸ”· FiiO BTR5

I have actually never used the device in USB mode so I donā€™t know, but I can test that later today when I get a minute free.That being said I have no real complaints with the BT quality so much that Iā€™ve honestly never even considered using it wired lol. By default when you plug it into a source as a amp/dac it disables the charging to not strain the battery. This can be changed in settings but for my personal use case I just charge it and take it with me when I go out. There is also some performance difference when the device is low battery vs full (mostly volume in my experience) so Iā€™d imagine direct plug would sound more like a full charge.

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So, Sgtdap, I tested this and it worksā€¦ kinda.

from my phone, the only app that outputs to my BTR5, that Iā€™ve tried, is the FiiO app. if I try to connect by USB and use another music app (I tried Google Play Music and Youtube Music), it plays through the loudspeaker of my phone.

I canā€™t seem to find any settings that change that.

ā€¦ of note: the FiiO app seemed to default to hardware accelerated mode (seems that itā€™s optional on BT, mandatory on USB), which disables the internal volume control on my phone and only the volume on my BTR5 actually does anything. Which also means the audio files are streamed raw to the device, so the bitrates (shown on the screen of the BTR5) show the currently playing mediaā€™s bitrate, when nothing is playing, it just stays at whatever bitrate it was last at or defaults to 384k.

on my PC, the BTR5 just shows up as an audio output device (no input from the mic), so the USB seems to be limited, but functional.

For clarity, the tests were done on my Google Pixel 4, running Android 10; Desktop is a Windows 10 workstation (I expect make/model matter less here). YMMV, and I have an iPhone but no adapter to connect it to my BTR5 in any way, or I would test that too (not sure if I need the lightening to USB adapter and an A to C cable, or I can get a lightening to C cable and that worksā€¦ no matter, I donā€™t have either of those cables).

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Thanks for checking it out. I was pretty decided on the BTR5 over the UP4 due to the ā€œhigherā€ qualities and rates over USB but it sounds like itā€™s more fiddling than it would be worth to me for the marginally better specs on paper. Really doubt I would be able to discern a difference but knowing something was ā€œbetterā€ would have always made me wonder. I like the knob of the UP4 better than buttons, about 2 years in on my phone and still hit the wrong buttons on the sides half the time when Iā€™m not pulling it out of my pocket haha.

I would plan to replace my Fulla 2 at work with which ever unit and I donā€™t have BT on my work PC. I could use either connected but might just roll with the BT from my phone while at work and donā€™t have to unplug every time I walk to the water-cooler.

Just a quick follow up on my BTR5: I got my balanced cables from Hart audio ( https://hartaudiocables.com/ ) and I finally get to use my BTR5 balanced. I havenā€™t tested the cables SE on it yet (honestly, why would I bother?) but I expect they sound EXACTLY the same on the hart cables; I have to say, Hart audio cables, if youā€™re on the fence, do it. these are awesome, my first impressions are above and beyond what I expected. I love the modularity.

I digress, the BTR5 sounds excellent balanced on the Sundaraā€™s, lots of power here (currently running USB from my PC - BTR5 shows 96k (hz), playing a 24bit 48khz FLAC file from Foobar on my PC), and I had to turn it down. Running the Sundaraā€™s balanced on this, you get quite a lot of power. Iā€™m currently on high gain.

I have a lot to say about the Hart cables but Iā€™ll save it for a more appropriate thread. SE performance on the BTR5 with the Sundaraā€™s, just to recap, was good, I didnā€™t have as much power headroom as I do balanced, but it sounded fine, I didnā€™t notice anything specifically lacking about the sound. With balanced, I feel itā€™s more robust (? hard to explain I suppose).

Iā€™m still waiting on my balanced cable for my T2ā€™s from Linsoul (been sitting in shipping limbo since April 20th).

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It unfortunately does not a line out feature and isnā€™t built to act as a standalone dac. Also never balanced into unbalanced, only ever unbalanced into balanced. More needs to be discussed about double amping. Dac->amp->amp. Itā€™s supposed to be avoided like the plague but I havenā€™t read enough to figure out exactly whatā€™s bad about it. I think it just exaggerates distortion to an unacceptable degree mainly. Again idk why but itā€™s not good, but look more into why and when itā€™s ok to do. I need to know why too!!!

Well, every dac has a built-in amp, too. Plus, es9218p is a soc, which means the dac canā€™t bypass the amp.

Most line-out for unbalanced have 2 volts. That needs a proper amp. The things is, the amp input only need very little current.

LG V phones have aux mode which has 1 volt (I donā€™t know why they chose 1 volt) and very little current. People have measured V20 and suggested that aux mode is the best for line-out.

But it seems the fiio doesnā€™t have this feature.

Not entirely true about SOCā€™s not being able to bypass an amp.

If you allow me to give my two cents on this, as an electronic engineer (but not for audio): amps are common inside various DAC designs, not only in audio, and they are building blocks for analog circuits. You can either have them inside the DAC or acting as buffer/amplifier in the output stage. However, when you ā€œstackā€ amp stages, a.k.a chain then one after another; one thing that happens is noise increases. Thatā€™s because noise never goes down in the analog chain, it increases with each element of the chain, so less components means less noise. This is specially true for MOSFET based amps, because they have a type of noise called flicker, which acts in our audible frequency.

That being said, there are reasons for using amps for coupling or buffering DACs. For example, usually the dynamic behavior of an active circuit DAC is better, and itā€™s probably more compatible with different ohm loadā€™s. You can also minimize noise with some techniques and topologies.

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I see a lot of questions here about desk use as a USB dac/amp. From what I can tell, this is the one thing the ES100 has over the BTR5: a true line out. At my work office (where I havenā€™t been in 3 months!), I plug my ES100 into my macbook and then connect to a Magni 2. Et voilĆ . Eventually Iā€™ll get a dac for the office desk, but even then Iā€™ll miss the fact than when Iā€™m running the ES100 as a USB dac, itā€™s ALSO connected to my phone via BT, which means I can take calls or stream Tidal on the phone. It is my impression that one canā€™t do that with the BTRā€¦or does one just keep the volume low?

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Key word here is ā€œdac/ampā€. Not just a DAC. I recommend it for desk use because itā€™s small, travels well, and in a standard office just does everything well enough with IEMā€™s and most headphones.

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Iā€™m with Dago. If youā€™re only driving a pair of headphones, the BTR5 has plenty of power for most everything youā€™ll want to run. if you need something with a little more umph, you can turn the volume on the fiio down to very low and play the source volume vs amp gain game, trying not to overload the ampā€™s input. though, honestly, I wouldnā€™t, personally, unless Iā€™m running speakers off the BTR5.

If you have speakers good enough that you feel they should be run off of an external DAC, then buying a dedicated DAC and AMP for that purpose may be a better move. using the FiiO BTR5 as a desktop DAC/AMP is more of a cost-saving measure - it sounds great and you can also use it for other things too. IMO, if you have the money for speakers that youā€™re going to be able to differentiate between a good DAC vs the DAC built into your computer, then buy one specifically for the speakers and factor that into the cost of the speaker systemā€¦

IMO, this is a headphone DAC/AMP, and we shouldnā€™t be trying to shoehorn it into scenarios it wasnā€™t built for.

WITH THAT SAID: I have used this (and played the volume vs amp gain game) with my carā€™s line in. Worked pretty well and fairly easily with minimal adjustment.

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Got this tiny beast today!

I gave the BTR5 a spin with my HD 6XX.
YouTube Music 256kbps, Pixel 4 + iPhone 11 Pro.

Quick impressions after an hour or two of listening:

  • it sounds fantastic
  • I know, I know, SPL and stuff. For me, the BTR5 drives the HD 6XX fine over unbalanced, with volume around 60-70%, high gain.
    • Iā€™ve already ordered some Hart Audio balanced cables, because I was curious. Iā€™ll post an update after trying them.
    • EQ was weird. I think this is where the lack of power may be showing. On my Hel, I can boost the hell out of the lower frequencies and the 6XX will be happy. With the BTR5 they seem to choke. The extra balanced powa might help here.
  • playing YTM 256kbps, I canā€™t really tell the difference between LDAC, APT HD (Pixel 4) and AAC (iPhone 11 Pro)
  • I also canā€™t really tell the difference between this and my Schiit Hel.
    • Well. The Hel can go MUCH louder, comparable volumes are like 9 o-clock for the Hel to ~38/60 on the BTR5 (both high gain). Also EQ (read above).
  • Android app seems slightly better. But they both work alright. Being able to connect to both and switch on demand was nice, made comparisons a little easier.

Overall, Iā€™m happy with this!

FYI, Amazon has them in stock for $110:

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I believe AptX is good up to 352kbps. LDAC is better for CD-quality playback (yup, 990kbps).
CD-quality is 1411kbpsā€¦ but thereā€™s still compression happening (allegedly lossless).
Still, most people use FLAC files ā€“ lossless compression of about 1/3ā€¦ ~940kbps.

https://cdn57.androidauthority.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/Bluetooth-Audio-Codecs-840x559.png

Iā€™ve experimented with Tidal and lossless and to be honest, I havenā€™t been able to tell the difference when I compare it to YouTube Musicā€™s high quality version. I know many people claim they can. Not disputing that, but so far it all sounds very similar to my ears. Maybe if I knew exactly what to listen for, Iā€™d notice. But perhaps itā€™s better that I donā€™t know :stuck_out_tongue:

However, if the YTM track is not 256kbps, I can tell. Itā€™s usually the ones that come from videos. IIRC, I used to be able to tell the difference between SBC and the other codecs, but itā€™s been a while since I used that codec, so not sure.

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Yeah itā€™s hard if you donā€™t have ā€œgolden earsā€ or ā€œdetail monsterā€ headphones. Obviously more apparent if you could A/B youtube VS the CD, but well.

One thing I know is, youtube just demolishes the sub-bass. Electro songs I bought in .wav versus the youtube videos (official, 1080p, etcā€¦) I get maybe 30% more sub-bass from the CD-quality file.

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Itā€™s also really hard to do a direct comparison, and that gets worse 44 ā†’ 96/192 because even knowing itā€™s the same recording is difficult.

The reason most people find it hard to differentiate, is because if it werenā€™t compressed audio would have been a complete failure, the difference really is tiny, itā€™s in the details.
All I really notice with compressed audio is a loss in staging, and ā€œclarityā€/treble quality, if your systems not particularly resolving, you probably wouldnā€™t notice that.
I would choose uncompressed over compressed, but I have tracks on CDā€™s I ripped 2 decades ago that I donā€™t have as FLAC, and are unusual enough streaming services donā€™t have them, and Iā€™m happy to listen to those in the format I have.
Iā€™d just stop worrying about it and listen to the music.

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To add to @Polygonhellā€™s point, Iā€™m going to drop a link to another post here:

The podcast linked to within that post has a couple of audio researchers as guests. One of the researchers points out that listeners inevitably prefer a lossless format over a lossy formatā€¦ EVENTUALLY. The tricky part is mp3 and other compression codecs are really good at determining and presenting the ā€œessenceā€ of a piece of music. If oneā€™s exposure is first and most often to a lossy format, that essence creates the expectation of how a track should sound. The subtle details like reverb and air that often get lost in a lossy (HA!) format can initially sound like a distraction from that essence. However, in time and with practice listeners do begin to prefer the added realism that the lost content gives back when moving to a lossless format. But that takes time and lots of listening.

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Would you say this could be similar in going from a headphone with little detail to a very detailed headphone for the first time?

Could be. Any new headphone/speaker is going to require some level of mental burn-in (physical burn-in is real too but almost always has a much, much smaller and sometimes vanishing effect). If you go from something relaxed like a Meze 99 series to detail cannons from the Beyer line, then yes, a similar effect could probably happen.

BTR5 now comes in a ā€œTitaniumā€ outer color. Might be able to see the side buttons better? I might buy one :slight_smile:

But I also want to see someone who has this: