there are several ways to do it. the first is to get a second pc but that means to keyboards mice and monsters. The answer is to run the second instance of the mini DSP in a virtual machine. We still run into problems tho. mini DSPs USB device id is the same from device to device. that basically means that the pc cant tell wich is wich.
we need to get a usb2 print server like this one
then we loan the USB print servers drivers on the VM we made
??? why use a third-party device for USB network, don’t you know that MINI DSP makes the WI-DG
@ its the most unstable, temperamental thing i have used.save your self the 100$ and DO NOT buy the WI-DG
DSP’s are used when putting a discrete circuit would take up either too much space/weight or are just impractical.
You will often find DSPs in distribution racks for concerts/PA events as frequency crossovers and room correction. (DBX is big in this, Behringer has their “Ultradrive”-series, etc.)
say you want to set up a sub-woofer. if you just used a y cable to conetc the speaker and the sub together the speakers would be playing frequencies that the sub-woofer are playing. a crossover separates the frequencies for each so the sub plays BASS and your speakers dont play bass. a dsp just takes it to 11 because you can tweek it for days and days.
for clarification a dsp is a thing and mini dsp is a company that names there produce after them self’s
A band for example, does not have a sub out, some instruments are rather dominant on their own (saxophone…) and so on.
So after mixing everything down to stereo, you distribute out again.
Speakers used in PA are often rugged but dumb as a brick. So you have to prevent the tweeters from trying to be subwoofers and vice versa.
When providing audio in a big hall (for example a church), you can’t just plonk a subwoofer in a corner as the last row will be missing out while the first row gets punched in the chest.
Solution is to have multiple subs and not crank them.
The longer a room, the more delay from front to the back. In order to prevent wierd reverb, you put multiple banks of speakers and delay the rear ones the most so they play in sync with the audio comming from the band.
Then you EQ out the room characteristics (to prevent standing waves and rumble).
Limiter (to prevent speakers from blowing and amps from overheat shut-off), light compression, phase correction, etc.
Now you can throw your signals at the Amps.
Front is your average “why did I not bring a notebook” (on device setting is fine), the predefined output sections is what makes it a lot cheaper than the Venu360 (which is more flexible, at a cost).
sorry for all the side-jacking, but one more question. that 2x4 HD recommendation. is it worth the price to separate the sub from the speakers for the gear I have? if so, why…what should I notice for difference in my music if I did that?
