Let's talk tubes in general

no doubt I will have more questions…but I have this JJ tube come up when I did a search for 6DJ8, but the listing only refers to 6922 / E88CC. how do those translate to 6DJ8?

Do 6922 / E88CC / ECC88 translate into referring to 6CG7 / 6FQ7 products too?

this listing also says it was made at a Tesla factory. does JJ always mean Tesla?

Well no, its a preamp tube so that perfectly fine. JJ is from like Slovakia. I dont think the 6DJ8s provide a big soundstage compared to 6SN7/6CG7 etc. They are expensive, but in my own tube rolling, a SN7 is prob. the most ideal(for exactly what you want) so you will have to get an adapter as well. Its very hit and miss though so you have to be able to try may. I would say for consistency go with a CG7 and something like the JJ DJ8. I think the JJ will be warmer, but it wont be as clear or as open as the CG7. Again in my experince, and of these the SN7 is most inconsistent in sound, then DJ8, then CG7.

JJ was tesla, their new name is JJ after the eastern bloc fell.

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I thought they were owned by the same conglomerate that owns all the old Russian Valve companies like Tesla, Sovtek and Silvana. But I could certainly be wrong about that.

Sylvania was american if I’m not mistaken…

okay. so then, how do these numbers,6922 / E88CC / ECC88, relate to CG7 and such?

I have dyscalculia, essentially dyslexia but for numbers, so when I see too many numbers, my eyes cross. I have dyslexia as well, so it makes for fun times on occassion.

Yep your right, thinking of Svetlana I think

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Svet is a cutie pie too! :wink:

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No worries, different parts of the world use different identifiers for the same tube.
Here is some stuff on the DJ8:

Also when you get military spec or a better version is generally all numbers(may not be universal)

6SN7:

The first number is the filament voltage of the tube.

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ahhh…excellent. so what other numbers are used to describe the 6CG7 I should be hunting for.

also, if a tube is said to be an Amperex, that means it’s Philips? and visa versa…Philips meaning it is an Amperex?

if you know the other names tubes go buy…can you share that? like how Tesla / JJ are the same…or whether there are others that Tesla / JJ are also known as?

edit - ugh…wiki doesn’t seem to have anything for 6CG7 :stuck_out_tongue:

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Well for companies you get alot of re-branding, and they may make tubes in many countries as well. so its not that easy. I’m not as well versed as my father on that stuff. ie you could get a Philips tube made in Holland, or a different location etc. and if the tube doesn’t have identifiers its harder to research. It may say X but really be from Y company etc.

Edit: with almost the entirety of tube history taking place before the internet it makes it difficult to research and track.

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are there ways to find out the place of manufacture if a listing doesn’t state it? will it be printed on the box or have a marking on the tube itself?

and are there other numbers / terms I can use to look up 6CG7 FQ7 tubes? want to make sure that if something else comes up, I’m not confused into thinking it’s something it’s not because someone added my term in the meta data. :stuck_out_tongue:

8CG7(8 volts for the heater) is a different voltage so it may not work, keep that in mind. I will say that a 7DJ8(7 volts for the heater) did manage to work fine in the Vali 2 tho. The default tube is 6 volts in the circuit. 6DJ8, 6SN7, 6CG7 etc. all 6 volts so they match in that regard. EDIT: the pin out matters too for the circuit. so if the pins don’t match it wont work either, and possible “boom!” too boot so be careful and generally use what others mention as being compatible and safe…I am not the sage in that regard LOL.

I dont know, I’ll check with him to see how he learned about some of the manufacturer stuff, I will say the box doesnt mean much tho. Paint on the tube, construction of the plates/getter, makers marks on the base stuff like that does play a role.

I always look for a tube’s datasheet. Most relevant and useful information should be on it.

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I was looking for some 6922’s for my incoming LP and bought some on CAM (Canuck Audio Mart):

"strong pairs of tested 1960’s Amperex ECC88 tubes branded for hp (Hewlett-Packard) from the Heerlen Holland factory

Made in Holland

Stamping condition: 80 - 90%

$70.00/matched pair"

I got two matched pairs for$100.00, including shipping.

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hey Mt…I meant 6CG7, the 8 was a typo.

also, just found out my BiL has the Bravo Ocean. any tube recommendations for it?

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No worries, those are the only ones I’m aware of. I know there are many different voltage variants on the CG7, but I don’t of another way of referring it it.

I have a question… say i was restoring some old speakers… and i wanted to put them on a tube amp. How often do i need to change the tubes assuming i will listen everyday for 2-4 hours

you should let the tubes warm up for a few hours if you can.

Welcome! Tubes generally should last several years at that usage level. Once they’ve burned in, just turn the amp on 20-30 minutes before you plan to use it for them to warm up.

I currently have matched pairs of the following tubes that I have used for my Lyr:

6N23P SWGP Silver Shields
Siemens E188CC
Mullard CV4109
Telefunken ECC88

Inbound I have a Auris ha-2 se amp that uses 1 ECC82 (input) & 4 x PL95 (or EL95) for power tubes per the specs:

https://aurisaudio.rs/index.php/13-main-pages/products/headphone-amplifiers/37-ha2-se

My question is can I roll any of the 4 sets of tubs I currently have either as an input tube or a power tube? will there be any issues where I could damage either the tube or amp by doing this? Based upon the pictures the bottom tube adapters look pretty close to the ones I currently have.

Input tubes
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Power tubes
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