I think he still does every once in a blue moon, but not as frequently.
Lots of Hakko stations i see… all the “YouTubers” seem to have one. I might check one of those out next year. Honestly if i did more soldering id fully justify a $500 station and dedicated space in my workshop/garage. With only sticking a few tiny wires together or to PCBs and connectors a few times a year… i get by with my dinosaur lol.
My iron is an older Hako, I also have a hot air solder rework station, they are only really useful for surface mount stuff and frankly at this point my biggest issue with surface mount is seeing the pins not soldering them.
If you don’t mind ordering from Banggood, here’s his review of the TS100, comparing it to his Hakko. ~$50 right now
60/40 lead is fine but why would you… we’re god dammed auudiophiles! I maintain that silver in the mix does something. It’s not really that expensive, You can get a 1/4 lbs roll of 4% silver for around $30 bucks. $15 if you’re willing to just get a few ounces, that should last you for dozens and dozens of cables. You don’t use much.
A soldering station doesn’t have to be expensive like a professional PACE or something like that. A Weller like is his excellent and cheap when compared to the money we spend on other shit. https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WE1010NA-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B077JDGY1J?ref_=ast_bbp_dp&th=1
There’s an even cheaper one without the digital. The reason you want a quality iron is to adjust the temperature. You don’t want it hotter than it needs to be to melt the solder. Too hot and yo create all sorts of havoc with the parts around what you’re trying to solder. Sometimes those parts are made of plastic. The connectors for the Seinheiser HD series for example are a bitch if you’re not careful with temperature.
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I mean, IM not an audiophile lol but i get what you’re saying. I’m a logical enthusiast 
I’ll pick up a few ounces of silvered when i have a “serious” project like the sets of speakers i’m planning on building this spring/summer. When im building decent crossovers… then i’ll give it a whirl.
I actually think my old analog is a Weller. I’m in that stage where it’s still kicking and i rarely solder so i’m good for now. I’ll keep that digi model in mind (as well as teh TS100 @BluJay614 recommended). Tanks!
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What are some good cable recommendations for making some RCA patches? Something super flexible i can make short jumpers for the DAC/amp connections. (probably nothing solid core)
Anyone here have any experience DIY’ing their own RCA interconnects? lol
I’m stuck and seeing so much conflicting information around the web. Most seem to say stay away from solid core (coax) wire and to use quad core… some are saying they swear by stranded and braided solid copper or silver wire (expensive speciality shit) etc.
If all else fails i’ll just wing it with W2534 as i know places actually sell interconnects made from it. Just not sure if there is anything “better” and more flexible.
There is little point using a shielded cable if you can’t ground the shield.
For the sorts of lengths most interconnects run the wire really doesn’t matter.
The connection to the connector will have the largest impact on the “properties” of the cable.
People used OFC and Silver wire because that’s what higher end interconnects are made of, and they have technically lower resistance, but over 12 inches or even 3ft, it’s going to be marginal.
Makes sense. My connects will be 6 inches (or even shorter) from the Modi to Magni so i figured i wouldn’t notice a difference. Inexpensive and flexible (b/c of the super short run and 180 degree turn) is most important to me.