Looking to make some unbalanced, headphone cables - what parts do you recommend?

These will be going on some HE4XX’s. I believe i’ll “need” (some items optional) the following.

  • Quad core microphone cable.
  • (1) 1/4" plug
  • (2) 1/8" plugs
  • Y split/strain relief
  • Paracord or etc. for sleeving
  • Heat shrink

Am i missing anything?

I’m thinking of using:

  • Mogami W2893 or W2534 cable. Id like nice, flexible cable. Don’t need fancy, just quality, flexible cable.
  • Neutrik or Amphenol 1/4" TRS.
  • No idea about the 1/8" plugs… need to figure out what will fit the recess in the HE4XX and match the 1/4" (as best as possible).
  • I’ve seen loads of cool Y strain splits but have no idea where to get them. Something inexpensive but good looking.
  • Paracord planet stuff most likely. Though not sure what sizes will fit the full (not disassembling the Mogami wire pre-split) wire. The post-split to 1/8" should be easy to size.

Anyone have any good recommendations for parts (anything better than what i listed - am i even close? lol) or places to order? I know Redco has most of what i’m looking for. Amazon too as far as connectors and even para possibly.

Are you deadset on making the cables yourself?

Most likely. Less expensive (for better quality wire etc). I can customize the looks and length.

Were you going to suggest something else?

@brux has a bit of a backlog if you don’t mind being patient, but Hart Audio Cables could be an easy solution. You’d buy a singular headphone cable (either the dual 2.5mm or dual 3.5mm dependent on which variant your 4XX has), and two interconnects(whatever single ended and balanced you want). The headphone cable is 4.5’ long and the split can either be done with heatshrink or a hardware split. He uses 550 paracord before the split and 325 paracord after the split, both of which can be done in custom colors. The interconnects come in 3" 1’ and 4’ lengths, and also use 550 paracord that can be done in different colors. He’s using Mogami w2799 for the wire (at least to my knowledge, as when prepping for first round production, that’s what he was finding preferable).
To be clear, I’m not paid for this, and have no stake in the company. I simply find him to be an honest person with fair prices and a good product that I use myself.

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Oh nice! Yeah that sounds pretty close to what i plan to do myself. I’ve got 60% of the required parts already so just be doing them myself. I enjoy soldering and DIY projects. Going to be doing some bookshelves and towers early next year as well. I’ve made loads of USB, power supply, speaker, sub/RCA and gamepad cables over the years but never a “nice” headphone cable for an amp.

There any DIY sections here? I looked but couldnt find any.

No, but there was a topic sharing the process of making them

Ah i remember that guide! I stumbled on that a few months ago when i was initially looking to start this process. Good info in there. I personally dont get the braided cables, but for looks, to each their own! lol

For hardware you can look at markertek.com. They should have most Neutrik connectors and more.

If you like Eidolic’s more elegant/gaudy design, I’ve seen thm available from norneaudio.com (I’ve purchased from) or double helix (I haven’t).

Good luck.

Not on your list: a good soldering iron and a quality electronic parts solder preferably with 4% or higher silver content. The only reason I make my own cables is because I can control the quality of every single item that goes into the build.

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Ive purchased from Markertek and Redco a few times… great places! And i can’t stand the “fancy” cable builds that look like blingy jewelery. Simple, no braided, cord sleeved stuff for me.

I’ve got the soldering and electronics equipment thankfully. I’ll have to check my solder. Pretty sure most of mine is the standard 60/40 rosin core. I’ve never had an issue with it in other electronics (including audio components) personally.

Solders not really an issue, lead free is a pain to use, but it all conducts about the same.
You do want a good iron though, makes all the difference with big connectors and heavy gauge wire.

Not really experienced with soldering, why is that?

I’ve been using the same analog iron for maybe 20 years lol. It’s really crap but i can solder some shit :wink:

Just doesn’t flow as well. Tends to result in more dry joints, just takes more care if you use it.

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I just saw this amazing silicone workstation organizer on Amazon… i need this now… must buy.
https://www.amazon.com/Kaisi-Insulation-Silicone-Position-Soldering/dp/B07DGVRYL3/ref=sr_1_27?keywords=soldering+station&qid=1576257069&s=hi&sr=1-27

I bought an expensive iron years ago, and I’ve never regretted it.
Analog temperature control, but the big win is how little the temperature drops when you use it on larger connectors or wires and how fast it recovers.

Yeah i hear ya on that. No idea what brand mine is but it’s decent. Can heat up and recovery good enough for electronics work. I’m not trying to solder 0 gauge car amp cable or anything lol. I never do enough soldering (maybe 4 times a year) to make the investment in a good (few $100) station. Maybe one day.

I’d recomend https://store.rossmanngroup.com/index.php/soldering-diy/soldering-stations-hot-air-rework.html?p=1 for a soldering staion, but their out of stock of most everything right now ^^ Can’t say I blame them too much, as they are getting ready to move to a bigger location. From my understanding, everything they sell are products they recommend and use themselves.
They sell flux and solder as well.

Lol I watch him too. Sometimes. Sad but I actually liked his electrobike live streaming.

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