Need help Troubleshooting DT880 speaker

hey there,

I had modded my Dt880s to be balanced here a while back. Been doing fine, finally settling on the dekoni choice suede pads. Now, some time ago the right speaker gave out…no sound.
Except…magically, it returned…until it disappeared again after some weeks(months?).

Now I’ve been praying for the them to magically fix themselves again but so far no luck. I don’t get it. The cables from the jack to the speaker make contact, never touched them after all so why would that not work anymore? But, now if take the voltmeter and cross wires, on the left (working) speaker I can hear static. I don’t get that on the right side. Is there anything I can try maybe to verify if there is some kind of damage to the speaker itself?

I wouldn’t be able to tie the failure to any loud noise or so that may or may not have blown them out. From what I hear that should be pretty unlikely anyway and iof so, it would have blown both out. They were connected to the amp but I was listening to desktop speakers for the longest time. And in case the speaker is busted, is it possible to get a replacement? I tried looking at their spare parts catalog but couldn’t find anything and I doubt they would be up to repairing modified speakers.

The weird thing is that they were just lying there on the desk since the last time I used them . Then the next time I wanted to use them for Coop gaming, i had lost the right side.


Beyerdyamic sell 250 ohm drivers only as far as I can tell, but I found these.

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You can’t have noise on the right channel like you do on the left side if maybe one of the cables is plus or minus.
on the right side has come loose.

This is because there is no voltage on it.

Before you think about the driver, I would first check whether a cable has come loose on the driver and on the connector.

Have you also looked on the Beyerdynamic homepage under spare parts in case it should be the driver?

When choosing the headphones, look for the Dt 880 600 ohm, if necessary send an email to Beyerdynamic :v:.

The cables aren’t loose, I checked with a volt meter. The cables can’t be wrongly wired either since it was working for months. Hence why my fear that something is wrong with the driver. Only reason I doubt is because it was literally just lying around. Don’t see what could possibly have gone wrong.

On their website they have drivers, but only for the 250 ohm version. no 660 version, least not as far as I can tell.

What kind of a connector are you using on the headphones? If you modded in a TRRS jack, there might be a chance one of the internal contacts is out of place. I’d also try checking the driver via the PCB contacts to better rule out wiring problems if you haven’t already.

Edit: I’ve bought Beyer spares from showcomms before. Shipping took a while (DE->UK->AUS in my case) but they’ve got a better catalog of spares than the local Beyer distributor. Recommend them if you go the route of replacing the driver.

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bit hard to see but there:

Nothing is happening if I put contact to the two sides of the pcb where the cables connect.
Everything else seems fine, including from the jack to the pcb.

Those are some pretty rock solid connections, it might look like those connections are shorted but that didn’t stop them in the past. Plus I reused the original solder from the pcb, that came like that.
So not looking too bright it seems?

A little grim. It’s possible to disassemble the driver further to see if the wires to the voice coil are still intact.
An example - HGE Contraptions: Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro Headset driver repair
Hopefully should be able to see through the driver membrane if there’s any breaks, and you can inspect the connection to the PCB before you start. It’s delicate work and not something I’ve done myself.

Well if I didn’t nee d anew driver before… I do need one now :smiley:
Punctured the cloth trying to pry out the driver and then tore the membrane trying to open the lid.
And if the those two vanishingly thin cables were connected before…they are loose now.

Delicate is an understatement, thgat said, even putting the voltmeter directly to the copper ring that thosewires connect o I hear nothing. so it seems I was in for a driver replacement from the start.
But thanks, at least I cam certain now :smiley: