Plan is set, just need experienced opinions

I think I’ve got things mostly patted down, but would appreciate a bit of advise and sanity checking. If there’s something I’m missing, or if I’m way off base about something, please let me know.
I have a 2002 Ford Ranger with a 2 door extended cab. I’ve already installed an upgraded head unit and plan to move on from there. I’ll mostly be using wired or wireless Android Auto or playing of a thumb drive. It does have a 8 channel output set in a 5.1 config (two channels in a center channel, two set front left/right, two set rear left/right, two subwoofer, all independently tested 4V out, clean even at full volume), with a 18 band configurable(specific frequencies/range of frequencies can be targeted for each band independently) parametric equalizer, and crossovers can be set for each channel along with time alignment. Yes, I will be doing a big 3 upgrade. Considering using a Mechman 370A alternator. I intend to use Siless Hybrid 3in1 200 mil sound deadening material on the floor, roof, doors, and walls. There seems to be a debate as to if using sound deadening on the hood actually does anything or not, so I may use some on it, but I may just forgo that.
Goal is a SQ focused build. Not completely ignore SPL, but SQ first.
I’m planning on using dual 6.5" speaker pods and installing Dayton Audio RS150P-8A wired in parallel for a 4Ohm load, using a bandpass first order crossover at 200Hz and 4kHz. The tweeters will be Dayton Audio AMTPOD-4 wired inverted, with a first order high pass at 7.5kHz. Not sure what I’m going to use for the rear channels. I know a common practice is to just leave them out, but if something could be recommended to be put back there, it would be appreciated. Considering PRV Audio 6MR250B-4 SLIM speakers for the rears, but can’t seem to get XSim3D to cooperate when they’re plugged in. For a sub, I’m planning on using a single Dayton Audio UM10-22 in a 17"x18"x7" (external dimensions) sealed box, deleting the fold down seat behind the drivers seat.

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Now to avoid having to come up with passive crossovers, I’m intending to independently amplify the front woofers, rear speakers, tweeters, and sub using a Down4SoundJP77 mounted to the panel that runs along the back wall under the rear window. If I leave out the rear channels, I’ll probably go with their 5 channel JP95T or bridge a couple channels on the JP77. Yes, to avoid the complication of multiple amps, I’m planning using a single amp solution, using the DSP built into the head unit. That’s probably my one reason for doing so. I do plan to get a measurement microphone of some kind (possibly Dayton Audio’s iMM-6C as I don’t currently have a laptop and would have to borrow one from one of my roommates, unless someone can recommend a better solution).
Going by the appx .944 cubic ft interior volume (not accounting for volume the driver will take up), I’m looking at an F3 of ~30Hz and F10 of ~21.76Hz while peaking around 48hz(appx +4db), not accounting for cabin gain and never needing to set a subsonic filter as it should never hit XMax (hitting 15.933mm peak at 38.15Hz). This is assuming wiring in series for a 4Ohm load and full 500W RMS signal.

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Here’s the graph I was getting in XSim3D without the rear speaker, assuming 100W out of the amp, no PEQ, and filters mentioned above (sub low pass set to 200hz, again first order, all Butterworth).

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If you have some constructive advice or pointers, please feel free to tell me. I’m not against doing a double baffle on the sub box, just didn’t do it on the original design plan.