Just got the LYR 3 home and burning in an EH and then a new prod Tung-sol. I was checking out some other tubes and was considering the RCA VT231 / 6SN7GT Smoked Glass.
If anyone has any experice with the VT231 Iād be interested on your impressions. Something tells me I should be breaking in the Tung-sol instead since the EH feels brighter.
Old topic, but I am in the middle of this same issue myself. Exactly as you described it is happening with my Lyr 3 multibit. Under dynamic or otherwise loud parts of games, music, etc. will cause the unit to emit a mechanical click, followed by halting sound output for about 10 seconds. I sent it in for them to look at it, and Iāll get it back about Feb 3.
Have you found any resolution to this issue?
Here are all the things Iāve tried with troubleshooting.
Thinking it was dac or software related:
Two Windows 10 systems, both with all Drivers, Firmware, Biosā, Windows OS updated throughout troubleshooting.
Adjusted all USB power settings, including in the registry.
Using the PYST USB cables sold on Schitt.com.
Bought and tried the Wyrd while that was still a thingā¦
Plugged into all USB ports on the PC case.
Plugged into all USB ports on Maximus XI Hero Motherboard.
Bought a USB 2.0 PCIe card, tried those 4 ports.
Using the 6SN7 and 6H8C tube.
Used Aux to RCA cable (computer to amp) which bypassed the onboard dac.
Thinking it was power from the wall being the issue:
I tried different outlets/breakers.
Various power strips.
Got a Tripplite UPS.
Tried different buildingsā power lines altogether.
Rhode Island electricity, Georga electricity makes no difference.
Used the 6SN7 and 6H8C tubes.
Thus, I assume it was something on the PCB that was causing problems.
I asked Schiit what the specific problem was, Iāll update if thereās any interest should they respond.
It sounds more like a protection circuit tripping the click sounds like the muting relay.
If itās repeatable and triggered by loud passages, Schiit would probably have deal with it.
Assuming itās not something like you moving around more with dynamic sounds and a bad cable shorting the amp.
I barely move with headphones on. Cream by Wutang Clan knocks it out 100% of the time, even without headphones plugged in. Makes the clicking mute relay noise, goes out for 10-30 seconds, then clicks back on.
I have a similar issue that happened to me but only with video games. My Lyr 3 is just an amp and I use the Bifrost 2 as a DAC but when I was replaying Resident Evil 4 on the PC, every time I used the shotgun, the sound would cutout for about 10 seconds.
think i read in a forum that the protection circuit of the lyr 3 kicks in at any sound under 8Hz or so, maybe the cause of your problem or my input came a bit to late to help you
Single Tube, easier/cheaper to roll. Has high/low gain stages. Modular expandability. Iām going to guess noise performance is much improved, and flexibility with lower impedance cans is much much better. I wonder if output impedance is lower (Itās very low on Lyr3, unsure what it was on Lyr 1). Thinking the muting relay circuitry of Lyr3 may be another improvement.
the community feels the Lyr 3 is better. it works on fixing the issues the original and v2 has. but mm is rightā¦sound is subjective, so you may or may not like what you hear. however, thatās likely because your brain is surprised by something new / different and you will need time to acclimate and see if itās an improvement.
Hey thanks for the reply. Here I am just as long apart with my response. That makes sense, Iāll play around with trying to limit the low end reaching the amp.