šŸ”· Schiit LYR 3

Just got the LYR 3 home and burning in an EH and then a new prod Tung-sol. I was checking out some other tubes and was considering the RCA VT231 / 6SN7GT Smoked Glass.

If anyone has any experice with the VT231 I’d be interested on your impressions. Something tells me I should be breaking in the Tung-sol instead since the EH feels brighter.

So yea any input would be awesome.

Feels and actually is ā€œbrighterā€ are two different things… :grinning:

Most any in spec 6SN7 tube will work just fine in the Lyr 3.

I honestly would not get carried away with spending megabucks on tubes…but if u like to do this great!

Only you ears will tell if YOU hear a difference or not.

I bought a bunch of relatively inexpensive tubes for my Lyr 3 and they all sound pretty much the same.

Funny thing is the stock tube from Schiit actually tested ā€œbetterā€ on my tube tester than all the NOS tubes I have…and I have a bunch!

There are some really neat looking tubes out there like the blue tinted Sophia…some of these need a tube extender to fit in the Lyr 3 opening…

So enjoy and report your experience!! Remember the tube circuit is really the most important part of the amp…

Alex

I should take the brighter description back since I am switching between the RNHP and the LYR3.

They are complete opposites and I should give the tubes and myself more time to settle in and get used to the difference on both tubes.

Hey Joshua_g

Old topic, but I am in the middle of this same issue myself. Exactly as you described it is happening with my Lyr 3 multibit. Under dynamic or otherwise loud parts of games, music, etc. will cause the unit to emit a mechanical click, followed by halting sound output for about 10 seconds. I sent it in for them to look at it, and I’ll get it back about Feb 3.

Have you found any resolution to this issue?
Here are all the things I’ve tried with troubleshooting.

Thinking it was dac or software related:

Two Windows 10 systems, both with all Drivers, Firmware, Bios’, Windows OS updated throughout troubleshooting.
Adjusted all USB power settings, including in the registry.
Using the PYST USB cables sold on Schitt.com.
Bought and tried the Wyrd while that was still a thing…
Plugged into all USB ports on the PC case.
Plugged into all USB ports on Maximus XI Hero Motherboard.
Bought a USB 2.0 PCIe card, tried those 4 ports.
Using the 6SN7 and 6H8C tube.
Used Aux to RCA cable (computer to amp) which bypassed the onboard dac.

Thinking it was power from the wall being the issue:

I tried different outlets/breakers.
Various power strips.
Got a Tripplite UPS.
Tried different buildings’ power lines altogether.
Rhode Island electricity, Georga electricity makes no difference.
Used the 6SN7 and 6H8C tubes.

Thus, I assume it was something on the PCB that was causing problems.

I asked Schiit what the specific problem was, I’ll update if there’s any interest should they respond.

I’ve tried most of those myself to no avail. I’ll contact schiit soon as well most likely.

It sounds more like a protection circuit tripping the click sounds like the muting relay.
If it’s repeatable and triggered by loud passages, Schiit would probably have deal with it.
Assuming it’s not something like you moving around more with dynamic sounds and a bad cable shorting the amp.

I barely move with headphones on. Cream by Wutang Clan knocks it out 100% of the time, even without headphones plugged in. Makes the clicking mute relay noise, goes out for 10-30 seconds, then clicks back on.

Then you’ll need to talk to schiit, it’s unlikely to be software, if it’s repeatable, and depends on the content.

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I have a similar issue that happened to me but only with video games. My Lyr 3 is just an amp and I use the Bifrost 2 as a DAC but when I was replaying Resident Evil 4 on the PC, every time I used the shotgun, the sound would cutout for about 10 seconds.

Is a protection circuit something typically fixable, or needing a PCB replacement?

think i read in a forum that the protection circuit of the lyr 3 kicks in at any sound under 8Hz or so, maybe the cause of your problem or my input came a bit to late to help you :stuck_out_tongue:

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I still have Lyr 1, is there a reason to upgrade to Lyr 3?

Single Tube, easier/cheaper to roll. Has high/low gain stages. Modular expandability. I’m going to guess noise performance is much improved, and flexibility with lower impedance cans is much much better. I wonder if output impedance is lower (It’s very low on Lyr3, unsure what it was on Lyr 1). Thinking the muting relay circuitry of Lyr3 may be another improvement.

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Does Lyr3 sound better?

That’s a subjective question that no one can ever answer for you other than yourself :wink:

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the community feels the Lyr 3 is better. it works on fixing the issues the original and v2 has. but mm is right…sound is subjective, so you may or may not like what you hear. however, that’s likely because your brain is surprised by something new / different and you will need time to acclimate and see if it’s an improvement.

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Everytime I think of selling my Lyr 3, I let it warm up and plug in my Empyreans and ask myself why??
Its a really brilliant tube amp…

Alex

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LYR 3 now available in a black finish

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Been listening to my old pair of shp9500 on this amp. Sounds better than I remember

Hey thanks for the reply. Here I am just as long apart with my response. That makes sense, I’ll play around with trying to limit the low end reaching the amp.