Airist r2r dac as a good candidate if you want a new dac
Correction, itās not new, itās not in production anymore, and theyāre a pain to find plus the Airist R-2R has yield issues.
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The Lyr 3 sounds great with the Bifrost 2. Itās really is worth the $700 price tag.
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I would be interested in the Bifrost for sure, but I canāt deal with the Lyr3/Bifrost stack if the colors donāt match. Schiit uses several suppliers for their cases and silver shade varies quite a bit. The Modius I owned for a short while was a different shade of silver from my Lyr3, so I didnāt stack it. I am currently using an Eitr and Modi MB (not stacked) so the shade differences donāt bother me. If Schiit had offered a black Lyr3 I would have already bought a black Bifrost to match.
Sounds like you need to pop off the top and paint it yourself.
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Nope. I have the propensity to mess-up/break stuff. I have it figured out though. When Schiit releases a new Jotenheim (in black) I will buy thatā¦and a Bifrost for a matching stack. I can use the balanced out of the Bifrost for the Jot and the single-ended out for the Lyr3. Problem solved. OCD issue averted. Hahaha. Until then I will use the Eitr/Mimby/Lyr3 combo. I sounds very, very good.
Okā¦ one last thoughtā¦ vinyl wraps?
Hmmā¦I hadnāt thought of that. Wouldnāt that hamper heat dispersion? The Lyr3 gets hot.
Not that much and itās right up there with paint soā¦ there you go. If you really do it right you can increase the emissivity the device which would make the ghost of Einstein smile.
I just saw thisā¦ My bifrost may get a cosemetic. https://www.amazon.com/3M-GP281-GLOSS-PSYCHEDELIC-Vinyl/dp/B06XWJC82C
Thatās cool. Iāll look into that.
I am curious about this set up with Meze Classic 99 headphones ?
Just got the LYR 3 home and burning in an EH and then a new prod Tung-sol. I was checking out some other tubes and was considering the RCA VT231 / 6SN7GT Smoked Glass.
If anyone has any experice with the VT231 Iād be interested on your impressions. Something tells me I should be breaking in the Tung-sol instead since the EH feels brighter.
So yea any input would be awesome.
Feels and actually is ābrighterā are two different thingsā¦ 
Most any in spec 6SN7 tube will work just fine in the Lyr 3.
I honestly would not get carried away with spending megabucks on tubesā¦but if u like to do this great!
Only you ears will tell if YOU hear a difference or not.
I bought a bunch of relatively inexpensive tubes for my Lyr 3 and they all sound pretty much the same.
Funny thing is the stock tube from Schiit actually tested ābetterā on my tube tester than all the NOS tubes I haveā¦and I have a bunch!
There are some really neat looking tubes out there like the blue tinted Sophiaā¦some of these need a tube extender to fit in the Lyr 3 openingā¦
So enjoy and report your experience!! Remember the tube circuit is really the most important part of the ampā¦
Alex
I should take the brighter description back since I am switching between the RNHP and the LYR3.
They are complete opposites and I should give the tubes and myself more time to settle in and get used to the difference on both tubes.
Hey Joshua_g
Old topic, but I am in the middle of this same issue myself. Exactly as you described it is happening with my Lyr 3 multibit. Under dynamic or otherwise loud parts of games, music, etc. will cause the unit to emit a mechanical click, followed by halting sound output for about 10 seconds. I sent it in for them to look at it, and Iāll get it back about Feb 3.
Have you found any resolution to this issue?
Here are all the things Iāve tried with troubleshooting.
Thinking it was dac or software related:
Two Windows 10 systems, both with all Drivers, Firmware, Biosā, Windows OS updated throughout troubleshooting.
Adjusted all USB power settings, including in the registry.
Using the PYST USB cables sold on Schitt.com.
Bought and tried the Wyrd while that was still a thingā¦
Plugged into all USB ports on the PC case.
Plugged into all USB ports on Maximus XI Hero Motherboard.
Bought a USB 2.0 PCIe card, tried those 4 ports.
Using the 6SN7 and 6H8C tube.
Used Aux to RCA cable (computer to amp) which bypassed the onboard dac.
Thinking it was power from the wall being the issue:
I tried different outlets/breakers.
Various power strips.
Got a Tripplite UPS.
Tried different buildingsā power lines altogether.
Rhode Island electricity, Georga electricity makes no difference.
Used the 6SN7 and 6H8C tubes.
Thus, I assume it was something on the PCB that was causing problems.
I asked Schiit what the specific problem was, Iāll update if thereās any interest should they respond.
Iāve tried most of those myself to no avail. Iāll contact schiit soon as well most likely.
It sounds more like a protection circuit tripping the click sounds like the muting relay.
If itās repeatable and triggered by loud passages, Schiit would probably have deal with it.
Assuming itās not something like you moving around more with dynamic sounds and a bad cable shorting the amp.
I barely move with headphones on. Cream by Wutang Clan knocks it out 100% of the time, even without headphones plugged in. Makes the clicking mute relay noise, goes out for 10-30 seconds, then clicks back on.
Then youāll need to talk to schiit, itās unlikely to be software, if itās repeatable, and depends on the content.
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I have a similar issue that happened to me but only with video games. My Lyr 3 is just an amp and I use the Bifrost 2 as a DAC but when I was replaying Resident Evil 4 on the PC, every time I used the shotgun, the sound would cutout for about 10 seconds.