Sealed vs Passive Radiator

So, I’m finding it will be rather difficult to properly fit a ported box in the back of my truck without going with a really custom build. I’ve found a guide that will work if I remove the jump seat (that will be rendered useless either way) for an older model. I’ve also found one that is made to fit.
I’m only planning on using a single 10". Using the same box I’ve compared:

JL Audio

And Dayton (Closed vs adding RSS265-PR with all 300g added)

From the looks of things, going with the Dayton in the ready made box will be the best bet, though adding the passive radiator will allow deeper extension. It does concern me how much of a peak there is. Having all four 75g weights added keeps the peak down and actually helps extension.

Given this information, is it worth adding the passive radiator, and if so, is that peak something to be concerned about?

yes. but just know passive radiator = ported volume.

edit: also, if you are going to sniffing anywhere near its max watts, you want 2 radiators or a larger one.

general rule, you want double the surface area of the active for the passives

but i would use a decent woofer + some dsp. you dont have the room for fancy boxes and radiators. mini dsp makes an auto specific version now.


better yet, prv makes one now.

edit2: there are plenty, those daytons woofers included, that will do in the 20’s pretty easy with dsp.

seas makes a 10"sub, that unfortunately is up to 400$ now, that will do 20hz in tiny enclosure for a sub.

I’m guessing that’s a yes to it being worth it.

I’ve been looking at a few different amps:

Or if I splurge a bit more and really chase that low THD

Otherwise, I’m not looking for SPL max, more sound quality while still getting nice deep notes. The music I’ve been listening to lately have been metal/rock, jazz, ChillFi, and edm. So I’d like to have small enough to keep up with a faster pace, but able to produce the nice low notes.

I’ve heard that’s a myth.

I honestly wouldn’t know what I was doing with one. I can deal with setting crossovers and gain with a multimeter/oscilloscope.

Edit: regarding amps, I’ve been eyeballing the JBL Stadium 4 amp for the front and rears.

Gonna put these in the front

May put these in the rear, or suck it up and deal with manufacturing my own rear mounts.

If I do custom mount, I’ll throw these in

people have been getting good results in vehicles with these. it will play in the 20’s

edit: also, about the passives, thats why i said generally. its much easier to pop the passive if its trying to do to much. it also can make the bass less muddy. it really depends on design. you just need much less design when using 2, it brute forces the situation, so to speak. and also can give you more spl at lower frequencies as you can add mass to both.

Ok confused as all heck by that sub… It’s a 7"? That’s a rather oddball size… And it’s fine with a stupidly small box too… Besides that, is it me, or does the 200W RMS seem kinda low?

I was trying to compensate for the displacement by doubling the XMax

part of what makes it fit in small boxes is smaller magnet. less juice. 200 watts should be plenty for a cab.

edit: thats 200 watts at 8 0hms wiring them in series.

So far as I’m aware, they’re usually 200W period, unless it’s different somehow. From what I’ve found, it seems more like a full range driver then a subwoofer. 7" is still a strange size. Don’t think I could find a pre fab made for a 7". I get the impression it’s made more for bookshelf or tower speakers.

its a dual voice coil sub/woofer. each coil is 4 ohms 100 watts. they list it as 8 ohms 200 watts when ran in series

edit: it would take a typical 2 ohm car stereo amp roughly 400 watts to keep up.

edit2: those amps would be good for it. the 800 watt one would be a little over kill. you can set them roughly 50% and not have to push the amps hard, something they always like. just about any amp at 50% power is going to have low thd.

Yeah, something about that doesn’t make sense.

To be clear, this is my point. The wattage doesn’t increase if I run it as 2ohm in a parallel configuration vs 8 ohm when run in series. Yes, less amperage is required, but that doesn’t mean power handling increases at a lower resistance. 100W/VC when there’s two voice coils doesn’t change when you change resistance. With the JBL sub I listed, it’s a 2/4 ohm selectable impedance. On either setting, power handling is the same.

“How are dual voice coil speakers rated for power handling?
A dual voice coil speaker’s power handling is typically specified by manufacturers for the whole speaker. This means that a 250 Watt dual voice coil driver is designed to handle a total of 250 Watts, regardless of whether the coils are wired independently, in series or in parallel.”’s,in%20series%20or%20in%20parallel.

On another note, as far as what an amp is rated at a given ohm level, I’ve noticed it doesn’t always scale in a linear fashion. Some claim 4ohm at less then half 2ohm for power output.

didn’t look at the amp that much. most amp’s change how many watts they pump out based off of what resistance there is. thats also why i said the “typical” car amp. but times change, and so do amps.

edit: you dont have to use that 7" sub, was just a space saving thing to look at. give ya ideas. the drop in 10" is the easier way to go as there are prefabbed cabs for it.

Okay, I’m feeling like we’re speaking different languages here. The subwoofer’s power handling of 200W RMS did not change no matter how I run it. The amplifier does change based on the load applied, which could possibly be nonlinear as load increases/decreases.

How so?
There are many shallow subs and ready made small ported boxes.
If these ready made or the sizes of them are not suitable (properly fit?) in someway, building a box is simple solution.
Even if the box takes both jump seats so the tuning and port are suitable i see no issue. Just use a quick lock connection like Neutrik Speakon and the cable connection takes 3 sec to disconnect/connect and then lift the box out if seats are needed.

in most cases. making a small ported box (suitable for selected sub) will be smaller sized than box with passive radiator if smaller is better. With DIY its easier to make a suitable box for the space that is available with the limits of sub driver / port design and specs.

Kicker has some small boxes. They very close in size to fit anywhere.


Also few other brands have this type of small boxes.
DIY is the only way to keep the box volume while dimensions change.

The ones, like what you showed, that are designed for standard cab trucks with next to no space behind the seats?

I see an issue. The issue is I want to keep the passenger side seat, or at least the floor space when I grab groceries. That’s compounded with the fact that I don’t want to unhook and throw the subwoofer in the bed every time I need to have someone use the jump seat on the passenger side, as every time I’ve had to use it, it’s not planned and kinda happens to be something that needs to happen.

Yes, the brand literally everywhere. Walmart, Best Buy, Target, Amazon… Yes, I’m certain they can push some thump, but are they going to do it in a good way when taking sound quality into consideration?

At this point, I’m tempted to say fuck it, rip out the jump seat that never gets used and build something out of the cavity left behind. Or should I just go with something like this?

Yea, shallow boxes.
Made for small spaces. Search for more.

If you DIY the box with precission, you could use top like a table and place groceries there.
Or place poles and hooks to actuallu box and hang shopping from those.

For solid and quality + low bass. You need some volume for the box so i would use both rear seat space.
Its a small truck anyways so some sacrifices are needed, do 2 front seats and shopping on top of box. Take box off if rear seats are needed.
Problem solved.

Or those underseat subs is one way but quality, some spl and low notes are not the same as with a quality sub and good box.


You’re repeating yourself while rephrasing…

While clearly blowing off why it’s an issue to just take all the space. Dude…

Repetition is the Mother of All Learning some wise said.

Thats what i would do in that situation for the best result. Like i typed.
I mean you can and will do what you want and the rest of us just trying to help and give suggestion and guidance.

In the multiple topics around the same subject.
DIY is probably the best solution for the box, measure and use all the space you do not need. If it’s enough for the sub you want, use radiator build if there is space. Use ported option if the radiator wont fit. Use sealed if ported wont fit. Dont forget amp/amps location and cables etc location.

Available cabin space sets limits for the box. Box volume (radiator,ported,sealed) or size limits what driver/sub works in that box. Find a suitable $$$ sub that works in that sized box.

Or just use underseat type subs.

The spot I wrote Amps in black is where I’m thinking about mounting the amps. The area outlined and filled in with red is the space in willing to give up for the sub.