I guess the hiss should not be a problem if it’s not for near-field speakers. Some people don’t have the same problem, too. It depends on the speakers sensitivity apparently.
They won’t bleed and more or less all small and chead class d amp can’t play 2x100 watt in 8 ohm (1% thd) with there power adaptor,supply it comes with, therefor you want more minimum 100 watt pr channel in 4 ohm 1% thd but often it’s 100 watt pr channel in 4 ohm 1khz with 10% THD
(i have heard the dual TPA3116D2 chip amps only delivers more power in 4 ohm not so much in 8 ohm)
Which is something like 2x40 watt in 4 ohm at best
If your desk isn’t too small, just go to eBay and find a used AVR. I got two Denon AVR-1312s that used to be 600$+ for like 100$. 100 watts per channel, 5 channel, 24/192.
Even if it’s for your computer, just plug the HDMI cable in and that’s it. dac + speaker amp + splitter + headphone amp for 100$.
I don’t need to plug any HDMI cable in my amp (i only use Dispaly port cable), why should i buy a surround receiver when i don’t need all the surround stuff and a similar priced stereo amp that used to be 600$+ i can get for like 100$ would sound better
…because you want a 100 watt Class D amp for under 100 euros and I don’t think it exists, unless you buy no-name crap from “audiophonics”. And this particular Denon AVR doesn’t have a billion connections in the back, most of the money went into sound. And I have it, so I can tell you it doesn’t sound like shit, no hiss whatsoever on this one, and even the headphone out is “decent” (for an AVR).
But yeah, used stereo amps from known brands would probably also be better than paying 100$ for something without a name.
On some small class d amps the gain is very high since some of them are bluetooth units and often the signal from a phone or laptop is very low and in order til max it out (max power) from a bluetooth unit the amp has a very high gain
