So I know the general recommendation for people making their own RCA cables is to use Amphenol connectors. However, I’ve noticed ready made cables for car audio tend to be made using much shorter connectors, presumably because of the space constraints.
Given this knowledge, would y’all still recommend Amphenol connectors for those wanting to do custom length RCA cables, or is there something else that might work better in this scenario?
I’m already considering solid copper core rg59 cables run under the carpet along with installing some insulation. I’m eyeballing Siless Hybrid 3-in-1 mats for this. Will probably do the roof, floor, doors, and behind rear speakers. Try to quiet the cab, eliminate rattles, and see if I can’t help keep things a bit cooler in the Texas heat (or help maintain heat during winters where it gets down around freezing).
The amplifier or player/DSP layout or installation locations (design of trunk) kinda set’s the requirements for cable connector length and cables “bending” properties. Layout planing of every device, speaker+sub and cables is actually pretty important phase of installation also because of safety. How to securely hook/connect/lock everything in chassy/car IF you crash and the audio gear does not become +100lbs missiles that will continue from trunk → cabin → engine bay and crush everything they hit. Even a weight of a pen might be deadly in a crash
…There are of course these 1-2 hour installation where people chunk gear in and connect cables and dont really care how the look or are placed or care if they crash. What happens the sub + amp missiles just waiting to kill everyone…
Back to Topic.
Some like to place the cables under devices so cables are “hidden” or out of sight.
This type of right angle RCA connector might the shortest there is for DIY cables?
Or just ready made angled “extenders” where the actual cable with normal rca connector.
There usually is room to use normal cables under “hidden floor” space or cable compartment.
So the plan is to try to re-create something like this where the jump seat behind the drivers seat is removed and a sub is installed there, with the box using the seats mounting points on the body of the truck to be secured down.
The idea for mounting the amps is to either mount them under the seats, or along the back wall under that rear window.
I’m also considering installing kick panel speaker pods in addition to the stock speakers, given my head unit has the proper number of channels to support it.
(Not the red one, it’s just the one that pulled up first)
Given that my head unit uses a pig tail kinda method for it’s RCAs and the unit is really short, I guess I’m not so concerned about the length of the connector on that end as I am metal ends rattling against each other. With the given location for the amplifier, I’m less concerned about it’s location. The amp side I could still use Amphenol connectors.
I have a friend that has been insisting that once he gets his car up and running again, he wants me to do his audio system. Not sure what head unit I’ll be using, or anything else.
Its a possibility but no worries.
in car-audio or in advanced hifi-installation all cables are covered in Nylon Expandable Monofilament Braided Sleeving (or something like) with heat shrink to ends so they get extra protection and looks pretty nice and any metal parts cant rattle.
If not going fully cover cables. Something like cable ties or something soft like Wire Harness Wiring Tape or velcro tape or just regular electric tape will also work for metal parts. Securing them or “not letting” cables move like behind the head unit also helps with unwanted noises.
I have even used small pieces of sound deadening (soft and hard) in different locations to keep audio cables from not moving or stop them not hitting any plastic or metal. Hard = keep in frame and soft = around cables if they “hit” something or move.
They usually have good glue and helps securing cables.
Solution is Wire Harness Tape.
Not used ends, individually wrapped, then the hole pigtail. All wrapped in soft tape.
Then if needed. That wrapped bigtail inside a soft deadening and you will never worry about it.
Thanks for the info. Given this, I’m presuming Amphenol connectors on both ends should be perfectly fine, running the cables under the carpet when I do the sound treatment for the floor (after the treatment is applied) should be fine.
Otherwise, I’m presuming the plan seems solid (beyond perhaps the cost)? I’m considering using JBL stadium speakers (2-way component for doors/kick panels, 2-way coaxial for the rear). 6 channel or 4 channel+2 channel amps for speakers. Still undecided on the amps or subwoofer.
Edit: I’m considering going with these:
Front and rear:
Soundstream PN4.1000D 1000W 4-Channel Picasso Nano Series Class D Amplifier, Gray https://a.co/d/1XRFF0L
Soundstream PN2.350D 350W 2-Channel Picasso Nano Class D Amplifier https://a.co/d/eaZLHK8
Soundstream TXP1.3500D Tarantula Xtreme Power Series Full Range Monoblock Amplifier https://a.co/d/0STXSVb
Soundstream PN1.1000D 1000W Monoblock Picasso Nano Series Class D Amplifier,Black https://a.co/d/8ey3T5g
Target ~ 300-450W RMS for sub
Kick panel speaker (add aftermarket grill)
Rear with adapter (Ford’s stupid mounting pattern and my but wanting to deal with making new mounts)