I have a quick question about the detachable cable mod I want to do with my 300r. It’s my first time modding so I don’t want to make a mistake so excuse me if I am asking a dumb question.
I am thinking about getting spare parts directly from Beyer, they are cable and socket for the 1770/1990 PROs. https://europe.beyerdynamic.com/catalog/product/view/id/4717/ and Connection socket, left housing DT 1770 PRO / DT 1990 PRO | beyerdynamic.
So my question is since these parts are for a 250 Ohm headset and the 300r is only 32 Ohm, would it cause any problems? I would think not, but I’m no expert. So any help would be great!
it shouldn’t. the resistance should be built into the drivers coil, not the connection.
I’d avoid going the XLR route if it’s your first time modding, but if you decide to go that route here’s a video showing DT990’s being modded for XLR
if you decide to go the easier snap in jack route here’s a good video
Either way you go, I’d recommend going with a 4 pole connection and making it able to be balanced at the headphone because its easier to solder the negatives separately than have them on the same small connection. You can always just make a single ended connector setup on your cable.
I wired my 990s with a 4 pin mini xlr and I hate it. I did dual entry on my 880s and it’s great. Was way easier and it actually shares cables with other headphones which is nice.
I don’t have a balanced source, so I think going for a balanced connection would be unnecessary. I wouldn’t have to solder the connection on the mini xlr end since its already connected to the xlr socket, so I shouldn’t have to worry about that. I would just have to solder it to the board on the driver. This is the video I was likely going to follow.
Seems relatively easy and looks clean. I was just hoping that adding a mini xlr to a 32 Ohm device like the Tygr wouldn’t cause issues. But it seems like it shouldn’t. Thanks for the suggestions.