Would agree, though havenât tried that combo myself. They appreciate some power (current over voltage for planars), but theyâre not super hard to drive. Try to make sure and use the balanced out on the CTH, though, as Iâve heard the single ended is not great. Not coming up with many other options <$300 for hybrids except perhaps something like the Xduoo TA-20 on sale or TA-10.
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If you try the LCD-3 and it doesnât sound like a better LCD 2.2 then you didnât try the LCD-3 Pre-Fazor. It is a LCD-2.2 but better in every way. Also I hear that the LCD-24 is amazing, the LCD-4 is honestly to heavy. I powered my LCD-3PF off an Asgard 3 and it was fine. I have since upgraded to the highest end iFi Pro stack though, iDSD iCAN and iESL. I do recommend the liquid platinum after demoing it at my friends.
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Yeah, it was a LCD-3 Fazor
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Alex Cavalli mentioned that the CTH powers his LCD-2 just fine. I agree. I believe there are more options to tube roll with the CTH than the LP, as youâll need to find matched pairs for the latter. As for the sound, I feel that one can get the CTH to sound pretty tubey (see 6C8G below), whereas the LP sounds cleaner and more authoritative than the CTH with a more defined and detailed bass; the bass of the CTH may be considered as a bit one-noteish. I like both, as they offer different flavors. The LP definitely runs hotter than the CTH. Anyways, I prefer to listen to both of them over my THX AAA 789. The second picture below is my big failure to roll the 6C8G with the LP = hiss city, lol.
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How did you get that big ol tube to fit the CTH?
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He has an adapter in the socket.
Something like this
And what looks like a socket saver underneath that.
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Right. The best made socket savers are from tubemonger, but beware as they tend to get really stuck in the tube socket, which is what theyâre designed for when used in tube testers. If anyone decides to buy one off ebay that are made from China, be sure to get the one with the screw in that way you can check the soldering job before sticking it in your amp; a socket saver that short-circuitâs your amp is a sure-fire way of damaging it. The Chinese-made ones are less socket savers and more like adapters as they do not get stuck in the tubeâs socket as the tubemonger-made ones. My pliers literally chewed up the tubemonger socket savers when removing them from an amp.
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Can you link the tube and the adapter you used? The socket saver isnât necessary correct?
Iâm brand new to tubes lol
Sure:
Adapter for 6C8G tubes:
As with anything coming from China, better open it up and check the soldering job to make sure that none of the solder forms a bridge between two or more pins.
Mind you, 6C8G tubes have a higher chance of being noisy or exhibit microphonics. Theyâre around 80 years old after all and their size makes them act as antennas picking up noise sometimes. In my experience, 6C8G are not as noisy as 6DJ8âs, but they sure are more microphonic, especially with headphones with higher sensitivities. Headphones with lower sensitivities and that are more current-driven, like my HE-500 and Arya, tend to pick up considerably less of the microphonics of these tubes compared to my HD6XX and HD800S. Even the HE-500 and Arya pick up less microphonics than my higher sensitivity LCD-2 rev. 2.
As mentioned earlier the tubemonger socket savers are better built because they serve a purpose to be used in tube testers, which means that they do not come out easily. For example, if you have to remove the case to take a look at something, the tubemonger socket saver will likely block the case removal. Removing the tubemonger socket saver takes a bit of effort.
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Youâll need the socket saver, the adapters likely wonât fit in the hole in the top of the amp.
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The â6922 to 6F8G/6C8Gâ adapter is definitely too wide to fit into the hole of the CTH by itself.
If I were to get a Project Ember amp, would I still need to get the same setup of adapter + socket saver?
I donât know if the Project Ember can use this tube, as I never tried it before. You better check its specs or ask in the Project Ember thread (here or elsewhere).
Just letting ya know I found a pair of Pre-fazor LCD-2.2 with serial 43xxxxxxx. Paired it with a Cavalli Liquid platinum that had the Elna capacitor mod (Tubes are Raytheon 12AU7 black plates). Got it used from a dude from Reddit. Very happy with how the combo sounds. Warm, full and punchy. Really enjoying listening to music now. Only complaints are that the leather pads feels hot and the headphone gets heavy after a few hours of listening.
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Here some pictures I took of my 2.2 prefazor right after I changed the headband, I have since also added the extended yoke rods and now they are a lot more comfy than they were before.
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Looking good 
New headband + time adjusting did wonders for comfort and longer listening sessions for me⊠can wear them for hours now. Was having a really hard time with them when I first got my pair. Glad youâre liking them otherwise though. Very nice cans.
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Which cables are these? They look well built
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itâs a custom 8 core copper cable from CapistranoCables on etsy https://www.etsy.com/shop/CapistranoCables?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=746826446
Jason makes really great cables, can definitely recommend 
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I really disliked the stock headband with the leather cushioning; the foam one for the rev. 1 was more comfy. I feel that the comfort strap headband is infinitely more comfortable on my head than the rev. 2 stock headband.
I have a LCD-2.2 Pre Fazor(Bamboo) in excellent condition for sale if anyone is interested, new pads, new headband. Pm if you want more info
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