and if it doesn’t improve sound quality, ill buy one of those 10k$ rocks to put on it and douse the whole thing in snake oil!
edit: but seriously, mainly got it for the right angle and high quality of parts. and because i like building things
and if it doesn’t improve sound quality, ill buy one of those 10k$ rocks to put on it and douse the whole thing in snake oil!
edit: but seriously, mainly got it for the right angle and high quality of parts. and because i like building things
Huh… When I eventually get my Crack I guess will probably DIY a cable like theirs. I wonder if they ever experimented with using a higher quality power supply. I suspect that could eliminate the need of the better cable
it could. i do not know enough about the specifics of how amps and power supplies work yet to really comment much. but i do not really see people changing the big block on top much.
Agreed but remember for EMF/RF noise the entire grid up to the wall socket is acting as an antenna, just as much as the last 6 ft. again if you don’t have a regenerator.
My power was at one point decent, I checked it again recently with a scope and now not so much.
I do think power is a big contributor to overall sound which is why you see big expensive PSU’s in expensive gear.
Hey I’ve even considered a regenerator, and might still pick one up.
I’ve changed my mind on a lot of things in audio, over the last 30 years and I don’t judge other peoples experiences/preferences. Some one I respect with a lot of expensive gear swears by his expensive power cables, but he has multiple regenerators.
Similarly I know at least one user on this forum with $1000+ USB cable he was given to prove a point, who swears that the difference was audible and significant.
The right question in all these cases is the same, it’s what is he/she hearing/thinks their hearing, and why. Writing it off as placebo is just lazy.
I’m happy to share my thoughts on cables, and have in various topics, but I have no interest in trying to change minds.
Would love to hear your feedback between that and the basic cord that comes with the kit. If you can’t hear any, at least you have a pretty cord. If you can - you better tell us!!! lol
The thing I had not thought about until recently regarding power cords is that they are pretty much on top of all your signal wires. So the opportunity to radiate noise into those low voltage cables is pretty good. That’s likely where better power cords make the difference.
I guess that’s the only cable management I practice, keeping high voltage wires away from interconnects, and having them run at 90 degrees if they have to cross them.
But it’s one of those critical things in CNC machines, when noise on a wire is a bit more terminal.
I the 80s and early 90s spent some time installing cellular phones in cars. Funy story even one of the installs was for David Letterman. (actually a few of the installs but that’s a separate story) Installation of antenna with quality RG58 cable and immacurately crimped RF connections, and you could ruin it all by indiscriminately folding up the surplus antenna cable and shoving it in a well somewhere. Out of sign out of mind right?
Similarly to the way you need to install coils in a crossover at 90 orientation from one another. Be easiest way to introduce crappy reception into an otherwise well installed car phone was to loop the cable, wire tie it and call it a day.
The two prescribed installation options was always to cut the cable to length reducing as much excess as possible. The other, if you had to loop, then loop and twist in a figure 8 so there would be two loops at 90 degrees from each other.
I got paid many dollars in service calls complaint to fix bad reception issues, this was one of the biggest culprits.
I’ll build it Sunday and test it out and let you know.
Do you offer a build service.
Just a heads up, the wood is alder, which can be a pain in the ass to stain properly. It has a tendency to blotch if you dont sand it and apply a pre coat of conditioner. Just food for thought…
I have not yet. But I was thinking about starting one. I have a website I started to work on, but I am terrible at making a website lol. If I do, naming the company Big Smooth Audio. BS Audio for short . I want to offer cable and speaker building services. Probably avr racks and headphone stands as well.
And don’t forget to sand between coats of stain.
If you are serious, lmk… I have helped a few friends build their website before.
I can build it for you. Hit me up if you want.
Here is a simple mod for noise and interference for the Crack from Paul Birkland himself:
https://forum.bottlehead.com/index.php?topic=11676.0
Very easy to do and very inexpensive…
Alex
Om another note I built a power cable like the one being sold, mathced the wire and connectors exactly and did lots of comparisons…
IMO the power cable is very flexible but sonically to me Nada, Zip, Zero, Nothing…just a nice power cable!
YMMV
Alex
Yup - the diode mod is not just worth it but should be part of the basic build IMO. Made a massive difference for me. Gets rid of a ton of AC noise.
Ah yes, the “When the noise get’s stuck in a diode, it is not there” workarround
Guilty of using that in some projects…
the guy I ordered mine from did this without me even asking so im happy to here this