So really most of the budget dacs are going to be somewhat similar to each other, where higher end dacs tend to make more of a difference imo. I should clarify you can get significant differences from different higher end dacs, but it won’t make the crack no longer sound like the crack I should say lol.
Yeah no I don’t think that is the case. I think you might want to pass on something like a orchid or a borderpatrol dac since those can be too relaxed in the treble and too smooth if you want to keep the aeolus and 600 the same treble wise. I think the bf2 and holo cyan would be what I suggest you consider in this price range. I also think if you can find a good deal a bryston bda 2 or benchmark dac2 that would be a nice pairing for something more neutral and clean but still enjoyable
Not the best soldering skills in the world or the prettiest cable management, but my Bottlehead Crack is 75% completed.
Tested the heater wiring and both tubes lit up properly. Today I will be finishing the build off with the soldering of the resistors and capacitors, and mounting the volume knob.
I didn’t buy the speedball. I will down the road…but right now I have to save up for some rather expensive upgrades I have been eyeing for a while.
I still have all of my NOS tubes from when I ownedy my Darkvoice 336se, so I can roll those. I also have a Tungsram 12AU7, a Mullard CV4024 and a 12AU7 to 6SN7 converter socket.
So far, my favorite combination of tubes is a CBS 6AS7G and a Mullard CV4024 (12AT7). Nice combination for a balanced sound with no treble grain, and tight but impactful bass. Mids are out of this world.
I’ve been using a mullard for the input as well, a cv4003 and it works well with the warmer hd600 and brighter dt880 so if I agree it’s balanced that’s what I mean and definitely good bass presence as neither feel lacking… you said it about the mids… I’m also using a mullard for the power, a cv2984 (6080) so which ever tube is responsible for whichever trait idk but they sound great together
I have a Mullard 6080 as well, but I really like 6AS7G tubes as they have a wider soundstage than the 6080 imo. The Mullard 6080 is probably my favorite 6080 tube though.
Sounds like I should grab a 6as7g… could benefit senns and zmf… I didn’t do a whole lot of tube rolling with the DV but I’m pretty sure I will with this amp… maybe 2-3 of each sort of thing… glad it’s up and running strong though… plug the Aeolus in yet?
Spent the day after the F1 race this morning building my Speedball upgrade kit. I bought a Crack off ebay about a month of so back now. It was well built but in rough shape but fully functional. The paint was peeling on the transformer and the box had a dent in one of the corners. But it was cheap so I pounced on it. The plus side is that is came with a very nice NOS RCA tube and I have quite a few of 12au7 tubes left over from xDuoo T-20.
I spent about an hour doing and doing it again the pre-test, making sure that all resistances and voltages were good on the existing Crack before doing the Speedball as they recommend.
Putting the boards together took me about and hour and a half and then mounting the boards took about another hour and a half.
Everything worked as it should the first time without issues, my voltages were consistent but not exactly what the testing numbers said so I freaked out a little until I realized that they say that 10% give or take their stated figure is within spec.
I’m not going to post pictures of it yet because I’m going to repaint it and I’m thinking of what I can do to repair the box, so that will have to wait. In the mean it, I’m anxiously anticipating my Eikon so I can get them making syrupee sweet sonic looove.
I had an issue with my bottlehead crack…dog tore it up a bit before I could install the speedball. I had to send it out to a pro to fix. My wife left my office door open and the dog snuck in. I blame my wife.
