OK so I can’t sleep at all, kinda thinking, what if the diode isn’t bad, and it’s more like, the circuit returns to both ends somehow, so while soldered on the PCB it LOOKS open with a diode test, but is actually fine and it was all a fluke with the fuse/IEMs fucked with the Amp for some reason.
Idk, kinda weird that me using HD600s, Aeon Flow Opens, Beyerdynamic T1 MkIIs, And Audio Technica M40Xs, it decides to fail specifically with the IEMs.
Something is odd, it’s too much of a coincidence, I’ll check tomorrow tho, tired but can’t sleep. Too curious but don’t want to Solder and be Sleepy (Like Drinking while Driving but for Soldering).
I’ll remove them tomorrow and see if they are functioning, idk have that theory still pounding In my head.
If they actually are open, then I’ll replace them, maybe with higher quality ones with the equal or applicable numbers, just for the hell of it, maybe start researching OP Amps for some rolling. Maybe get some nicer caps too, gonna research the ESR Rating on the caps on the board and see if there are lower ESR ones, maybe German F&T caps, seems fitting seeing how the amp is German. Change the transistors too if there are better modern ones. Idk, depressed about the amp, but excited at the possibilities.
The Vertical Boards are going to be more difficult, might take a day for me to check them all thoroughly to check for damage if the Diodes really are open. Also they have .1uF (100nF) 50V ceramic (Ceramic?) bipolar caps as a bypass to some of the electrolytics, maybe say fuck it and buy some Mundorf ones and make them fit in their place. For the meme. Fur Das German Meamiz.
Oh also the Relays are Panasonic, weird tho since they seem to be made I China, I thought Panasonic was Japanese, but whatever. Not changing them since they’re essentially fast switches, but checking them anyways.
Man great opportunity to also see how transistors work, some are NPN, others are PNP, so kinda curious to see why they’re in the position they’re in.
Also Bridge Rectifier seems to be the ones parallel to D32, there’s a screw hole spacing one out from the other three but the way they’re positioned is truly the one recognizable thing in this entire amp. There’s a bit of comfort In that honestly, knowing you know something that you’re trying to know.
Honestly, sucks that I lost $250 IEMs, but hopefully it isn’t the amps fault and my theory that the circuit in this part is circular, and they use Diodes to prevent DCV back in the same direction, but due to this the Multimeter tells me that there’s an issue is correct.
Also the Pot is an Alps 2 Gang Stereo Pot, so I think the rumors of it not being truly differential are credible, maybe it does something with the phases though and technically is balanced but not Differential (There is a difference), like the regular THX stuff, idk.
Actually instead of replacing the caps on the PSU that bypass the electrolytics, maybe change the caps where all the knobs with the cool settings are. Technically those are more in the path of the audio than the Power Supply.
Fuck it why not, Vishay resistors too while I’m at it, for the meme.
Oh shit just realized the vertical Boards have model numbers, maybe I can buy them already built if there is an issue with one of them. Saves me the time and effort since I’d need tools I don’t have, stuff for surface mount soldering that is.
NVM, guess if one of the parts is busted, I’ll need a Hot Air Station, The numbers for the Boards must be specific to the Phonitor Manufacturer, so I can’t find the online, they have QR code things o. The back, hmm.