Not an album, but If you like the songs you can dig deeper for yourself 
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Been travelling for years with nothing but a 35mm/f2 on my Nikon F3 (had the underrrated but excellent 75-150mm/f3.5 E Series in the backpack but only used it a couple times for some portraits).
Next trip coming up soon … again with a 35mm (and a 90mm in the backpack, lol) … never really bonded with 28mm and it’s not for the lack of trying … YMMV.
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35mm and 90mm is a great combination but i mostly choose only 35 because it’s so lightweight and i can carry it outside on the strap of my backpack for the whole day without any issues
Most of my other lenses are too heavy for that and i have to put the camera inside the backpack which kills a Lot of oppportunities and also it’s annoying 
When i don’t wear a backpack i usually go with my 24-105 on a shoulder strap for the sake of convenience
It also makes a big difference If i Go Out for the sake of photographing or If i am on a trip but also want to photograph as a sidequest.
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I usually use 35mm as well. Ideally, 100mm is best for close-ups but 35mm and 50mm just have a different feel to them…
I recently tried 16-24mm and it looked funny and cool lol. I recently ordered a lens reversal ring to try it with my 35mm on A7C.
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Funky!
Thanks for the recs, brother. These both sound great with the Deuce + Impedance adapter.
Not really my thing when it comes to music choice but I can get down with it.
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aah too bad, I´m jivin´ real hard to this style at the moment
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I feel that. With me, my mood tends to dictate my music choice. I’ve been stuck in a perpetual ‘emo’ type of mood for months… hell, years now, so the alternative and indie rock cuts I rec’d above really suit what I’m feeling, ya know?
Also, to reply to the focal length discussion above - the reason why 35mm and especially 50mm feels so correct to most people is that our eyes have a very similar perspective and magnification to about 50mm. So, looking through a 50mm lens on a full-frame camera specifically feels very correct to a lot of people, and there’s a good reason why
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I feel like you would be VERY far away from the subject with that? Most of my macro shots are taken VERY close to the subject as I believe that is what makes the subject look so big in the pic. But that was on my phone and I try to not zoom in more than 2x (48mm) because anything beyond that does look visible worse.
Only big upside I see with longer focal lengths on macro pics is that you may avoid adding more shadows.
Seen this mentioned as well, but I see both 35mm and 50mm being mentioned, it cant be both can it?
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Not really, but they’re close. 35mm on APS-C has a very very similar FOV to 50mm on Full frame but a different perspective and magnification so a lot of people get that confused because a lot of folks shoot on APS-C. But 50mm is a lot closer to our eyes, objectively.
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aaa, that may be it. I assume when a focal length is being mentioned, without specifying if its FF or APS-C, the default is to assume it is FF?
I also believe I heard that aperture values also arent 1:1 on FF/APS-C?
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It depends on who you’re talking to, if I’m honest. The focal length of a lens is the focal length, end of story. What it’s equivalent to is entirely dependent on what camera it’s on.
Could be FF.
Could be APS-C.
Could be Micro 4/3s.
Hell, it could be a Medium format… you just have to ask I guess.
And Aperture values, again, are the aperture values. There’s no changing the light gathering ability of an f/1.8 lens, regardless of what camera it’s on. What could change, though, is the perceived DOF. Think of it this way;
A FF sensor with a 35mm lens in front of it will have a different perspective as a 35mm lens with a APS-C sensor behind it. If you want to get the same framing on both cameras, what do you have to do? Back up from the subject. Thus, reducing the effect of the 1.8 apeture, THUS giving the shooter the illusion of a less shallow DOF, because your subject is now farther away from the focal plane.
This is a super common misconception, a larger sensor will give you a shallow DOF… nah. That’s not it. It’s just that your subject is closer to the focal plane of the sensor giving the illusion of a shallow DOF.
In terms of light gathering, it’s the same on either sensor, it doesn’t matter, it’s just that the image circle is cover more/less of the sensor depending on the size of the sensor.
I hope that all makes sense.
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Is there an explanation on why I can seemingly use a LOT slower shutter speed on the camera compared on phones? On my phone I believe my limit is around 1/200 and I can still take non-blurry/shaky pics but on the camera I am at 1/50 and it feels pretty much the same. Is is just due to the heavier weight on the camera making it easier to stabilize it? OIS should be on both of them, unless the phone OIS is just that much shittier…
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You’re right on the money - The camera is a lot heavier, leading to a naturally more stable grip. Plus, OIS on a camera is a lot better being 5-axis, with most cameras doing 4-5 stops of stabilization with ease. Some even do 6 or 7 now a days, which is nuts.
I used to get a crisp shot with my Fuji XH-1 down to 1/10 of a second on a wider lens. It was incredible.
Also, keep in mind that a longer focal length is going to show a lot more ‘shake’ compared to a wider angle.
Also, cameras have OIS built into the lens as well as in-body stabilization . Phones don’t have both If I understand correctly.
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aa yeah, they are much more sensitive to any slight shaking/turning.
Mine ^.
Asus has something cool but I assume its a different tech?
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Yeah, OIS. But not sensor stabilization. I assume it’s because phones are just too small to fit those mechanisms in there.
And the Zenfone is using software for stabilization. It’s basically cropping in quite a bit and cutting out the most outside of the frame so that the middle portion appears to be ultra stable. It’s literally all software.
It’s honestly done very well now a days. And sometimes, a little bit better than actual 5/6 Axis sensor stabilization. You’ll find, at times, with some older cameras with the first gen sensor stabilization that you’ll get a small ‘wobble’ with some movements and that’s due to the sensor being off axis during the actual movement, causing weird movements. It’s like it’s trying to over compensate for the movement you’re doing.
I hope that makes sense.
Man, I have to say, It feels good to talk about cameras again… my first love. The only subject I feel 100% confident talking about. Thanks for asking all these questions, Riku
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haha np.
Cant wait for my macro lens to arrive.
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Is there any key rule I should follow for what aperture settings to use/avoid?
I think i saw somewhere where they had a pic that showed to avoid the last 3 biggest values and maybe the first smallest value?
Looking at lens reviews and it seems like different lenses have their own “sweet spots”?
Also, with this kit lens the longer focal length it is set to, the higher the minimum aperture gets. But the kit lenses I saw people praise such as this:
They dont mention an aperture range, does that mean that even if it is zoomed in to the max, the minimum aperture is still the same F 2.8? (I assume you can always increase the aperture though?)
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These are all my opinions so YMMV.
Aperture you choose is directly related to the picture you’re looking to take a what kind of image you’re looking for.
Are you shooting a portrait? Try shooting wide open with the largest aperture possible to achieve the best background separation. This will also let in the most light towards the sensor. Lenses are also not their sharpest when wide open, usually, and for portraits sometimes you don’t want tack sharp details, especially if you’re photographing a women. A slightly softer result might be better.
Or, are you taking a photo of a landscape or architecture? Stopping down your lens a few stops (from 1.8 wide open to 2.8 or even 4) can help both sharpen your image, corner to corner + the center AND avoid things chromatic aberration. But yes, some lenses have ‘sweet spots’. But typically, shooting wide open with any lens will yield slightly less sharp results.
Yes, that’s correct.
When you see an aperture range on a lens, that means as you zoom in, the aperture has to get smaller. It’s called, variable aperture. A fixed aperture lens is usually harder to keep correct throughout the zoom range, thus, making them more expensive and they usually have a lot more glass inside, making them heavier and overall bigger.
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Im guessing this is the biggest factor for why people seem to hate the 16-50mm kit lens from Sony? Since the aperture value starts pretty high (3.5 - 5.6).