DT880 Edition non-balanced mode

Should I first desolder the wires btw? No it will just pass through the jack connector right?

It’s this one
image

Sorry I haven’t used it before so I know nothing.

Should be fine, unless there is a short.

Select the 2000 Ohm Range. That way the 250 Ohm we are looking for is in range.

I get:
A - F: 002
A - D: -000
D - F: 012

What does your meter display when you just put the leads together?

Also: Is there a decimal point?

it says “001”. There’s a decimal if I set it to 200 ohm or 20K (on different places) but not when it’s on 2k.

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  1. I HATE manual range selects on multi meters.
  2. A↔F is direct connection
  3. A↔D is probably Open circuit (= the two are not connected)
  4. D↔F is the outlier here (or just bad connection of the probes)

From this thread here:

The interesting ones now are:
B↔A
B↔D
B↔F

BA: 001
BD: 265 (!)
BF: does nothing, just sits at the default 1

HEY! Driver found!

B is probably Ground, right? So D is where your Tip connection would go.

Well yeah but that would be the Right channel, since B goes to the right driver. Should I not also find two other connections which have +/- 250 Ohm for the left channel?

Whether I put the ring or the tip on D should only control whether I get my left or right channel through my right driver right? I find it a bit odd that F does absolutely nothing, I would expect 250 ohms between F and A as well.

That would be B↔C (like you marked in your drawing)

Still only a right channel I’m afraid :frowning:. (Also I get the left channel through my right cup now :stuck_out_tongue:)
Though indeed I do get 250 on B <> C.

Looking at this guide they soldered the red and white wires both to the left channel of the chassis…?

That is a swapped L/R then.

Wire arrangement should be this here:
(Unless I am making a collosal idiot out of myself or can’t read)

Ignore!


This should be it:

I would use the A and F solder pads because they are connected by the PCB (= black lines) and only have one set of wires on it. Not sure why E pad is not used.

The drawing also relies on your measurements being correct :stuck_out_tongue:

Yeah I think I just butchered something. I have now tried pretty much any permutation and it just isn’t happening. In the guide I sent (DT770) They hook up the right channel directly to the connection on the jack chassis, I tried that but all that got me is that my right channel is also no longer working :stuck_out_tongue:

Thanks for the help though, you’ve taught me a lot!

That would also be an option…
I wonder why it did not work for you :thinking:


I get the urge to buy a DT-series just to get my damn drawing right!

From the guide:
image

From here:

Connection table with resistanes:

Cons A B C D E F
A brown 0 (250) ? ? ?
B 0 right Cup 250 ? 250 ? x
C 250 right Cup ? ? ?
D red ? ?
E - ?
F blue
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Yeah I shouldn’t have disconnected the shieldet wires that go to the other cup. I can’t seem to solder these, they just melt…

That’s exactly what I had. After a lot of effort I managed to get everything wired up again but still nothing on the left driver. Also because I had so much trouble with the wire of the right cup the solder is now connecting everything to each other, so I can’t get any readings from the multimeter anymore. Right channel is still working though, so I got that going for me.
I think I’ll just order a new driver and see if I can find out what I’m doing wrong with the little cables from the right cup. I’m a bit devastated at my failure though.

Have you got a solder vacuum?

Solder Wick (= Solder Braid) would work too.