šŸ”¶ Fostex T50rp

Running these off Audioquest Red and canā€™t say they are too quitet. Would an amp like SMSL SP200 or Schiit Asgard 3 improve SQ due to higher power output?

I would say so yes, grabbing a asgard 3 is a great match for these, would be real nice. It would even out the frequency response a bit and improve dynamics and detail, with other changes as well imo

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Yes. There is sound, and sometimes lots of it, through the T50 and mods with most amps. When they have sufficient power, though, their bass becomes clearer and more controlled. If you went with an A3, you will likely notice the difference in the quality of the bass.

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I wouldnā€™t say the sound is bad. I prefer T50 to Fidelio X2 both powered off Dragonfly Red. A3 is essentially double the price of T50 in UK, therefore wondering if it is worthwhile.

Looking to get an amp anyway so might get A3 just to find out.

My T50RPs definitely donā€™t sound bad even powered from my phone (!) but Fostex says the RP series can handle 3 wattsā€¦ so an amp will amplify the details.

Therefore 3 watts amp would be recommended or any amp will improve SQ? Some of Fostex amps or Arcam rHead look quite intresting but are not as powerfull as A3.

Personally I think the fostex amps are pretty outdated and donā€™t sound that great for the price, not sure I would rec those modern day

Thatā€™s a pretty solid amp, would also be pretty nice, that still pushes a fair amount of power (and all class a as well)

Mostly imo I think as long as itā€™s a semi powerful amp it will improve the sound, amp quality also matters besides power. The t50 has an overstated amp requirement imo

I mean I got the 1 watt JDS Atom and itā€™s plenty. Zeos will say you need a BasX A-100 with like 50 watts, etc. :stuck_out_tongue: just personal preference.

The power handling spec has more to do with the amount of voltage and current the drivers can handle before damage is done to them. The manufacturer will give a spec to keep the driver somewhat safe (although not your ears!). The T50 does not have sensitive drivers, and thatā€™s particularly true in the lower frequencies. I agree with @M0N that much of the T50 power requirement talk is overblown. @LeDechaine is right that you do not need to drive them with an Emotiva speaker amp like @ZeosPantera recommends. I disagree slightly with @LeDechaine that the Atom has enough power, though. The Atom does not drive them poorly, but the Liquid Spark and the Magni series of $100 amps control the T50rp subtly but noticeably better than the Atom does in the lower frequencies.

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But muh 115-something-dB SINAD! cough

Just kidding. Interesting. I havenā€™t tried other amps. I feel like my JDS Labs Atom may make my T50RPs sound V-shaped. Orā€¦ U-shaped. Not on low gain, but on high gain, cymbals and sub-bass are definitely boosted a tiny bit.

Remember, the amp is supposed to be measuring as flat as a ruler (0dB 20hz-20khz), but Iā€™m certain if I could record something on low gain and compare the output on high gain with my T50RPs Iā€™d see a 2.5dB boost atā€¦ 75hz and 10khz or something similar.

250mW is definetly too little, 1W and above are good.

I think this is a spot where wording matters. I donā€™t think the amp ā€œmakesā€ them V. I think a headphoneā€™s or speakerā€™s sound signature is judged when it is sufficiently powered. I think what you are seeing with the ā€˜amp making the T50 Vā€™ is that the T50 is power hungry. It needs the power to become what it is.

Iā€™m definitely not knocking the Atom as an amp. I think itā€™s still state of the art for $100 amps. I just think the one class of price appropriate headphones it struggles with - albeit only very slightly - is the T50 and mods.

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Thanks for all input. Decided to go with Arcam rHead as got decent price on eBay for new unit and it seems to have positive reviews online. Intresting is the drop of price as it used to go for Ā£400 RRP and I got mine for Ā£170. Assumed that extra money for A3 is not worth it.

I have Dekoni Blue with Shure 1540 pads and am noticing a slight channel imbalance. The sound appears to be pulled everso subtly left. Iā€™ve already pulled pads off to check the internal damping material, everything is in place. Iā€™ve swapped out wires, same thing. Iā€™ve checked all my amps with other cans, theyā€™re fine. I donā€™t see any damage to the pads that would damp or open either side either. Itā€™s a new development Iā€™ve picked up on the last couple of listens. Am I missing any diagnostics? Anyone have any ideas?

Put em backwards to check if itā€™s your ears? (Or wax, etc).

Yeah thatā€™s stupid but thatā€™s one possibility ā€“ thatā€™s the first thing I always do because my right ear is not as good as my left ear. :man_shrugging:

Lol. Itā€™s not a problem with my other cans so itā€™s not my ears.

Incidentally I cleaned my ears out today too (other headphones still fine). Do we need a HiFiGuides ear cleaning techniques thread? :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

Want my left ear? Then I have two good ones :stuck_out_tongue:

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Sorry. I just thought, if itā€™s something subtle it can be something only happening with some frequency range of your Blueā€™s.

A guy already sent his HD58Xs to someone to ā€œmeasureā€ the FR because the highs sounded weird, then went to a store and tried HD600s and found the same thing, then realized it was his ears.

Swapping left-right pads is also an idea, otherwise, I donā€™t know. I know sundaras and audeze planars can fail but never even heard about T50RP variants failing or channel imbalances.

Good luck anywayā€¦!

That one I didnā€™t think of. Iā€™ll try it.

We are often recommending the 4xx headphone to people who come here. I have the 4xx and i dont like it. I was wondering how this headphone compares since their both about the same price and both planars? Iā€™d rather recommend this one. cause if someone wants they can improve it. turn them into Argons or something.

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