There are some easy mods and more advanced mods.
The easiest mod is the pad swap.
I personally prefer the dynamat mod. You have to open up the cups…best way to do this is by using a hairdryer and applying heat evenly around the area where the cups are hot glued together. It takes about 2 to 3 minutes of heat for the glue to soften up, then you pull apart. You apply a dime sized amount of dynamat (or even blue tack) to the rear of driver. You also want to keep the 2 pin sized holes open…never seal these.
The other mod some people choose to do is poking holes in the driver paper (no more than 2 to 4 holes) for extended bass. With the sr series changing from i to e, Grado re-tuned the drivers by adding 4 holes stock, so this mod isnt as popular anymore. However, if you want more bass, this still works. Keep in mind this one is irreversible, so starting off with 2 holes and working your way up is recommended. In the picture below, you can see where someone used a ball point pen to poke holes in the driver damping paper.
When you get really advanced, you can build your own pair from the ground up. Everything in the pictures below are different parts. The only original stock piece is the sr60e headband metal band. The cups are turbulent labs rosewood cups. The headband cover is also from turbulent labs. The best cups are modified sr325e aluminum and mahogany from Bruce at Wabi Sabi (he does excellent work). The cable is a Mogami w2893 modified. The drivers are Nhoord Red V2 drivers. It was a fun project and the sound was great. I sold those a few months back for upgrade funds.




