I see, thanks for your input. Yeah, honestly itâs not that bad, but especially when gaming it can become mildly annoying, and I read of some people that resolved this thing with a substitution, so I donât know what to do lol
Very enjoyable. Sound fits what I like and this is coming from someone whoâs previous endgame cans were Fostex TR-X00âs. So that means a U/V curve is something I enjoy and these are great. Iâm pretty simple I like some bass and recessed mids without the highs hurtingâŠ
Replaced pads and cable:
Dekoni Elite Sheepskin - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Q99PBM6
Youkamoo 4 Pin XLR Balanced Cable - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LF36XD2
Running primarily with a DROP + THX AAA 789 amp and MASSDROP X AIRIST AUDIO R-2R DAC (SE) / Geshelli Labs JNOG (XLR) and they drive these cans with ease.
/edit: removed note about power since it looks to be inaccurate, but these things donât seem that hard to drive. On the 789 the highest I go is 12 oâclock on low gain and that is pretty loud for me.
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In either case, let me know if anybody actually throws 5 watts into these with the headphones on their skull.
Need burn? I feel very normal
Think I might use my tax refund to grab a pair of these. Iâve wanted to check out planars for a while now, and these seem like an excellent pair.
Iâve put something like 45 watts through them for days. Power is not firmly attached to volume, they can be separated.
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Are the plastic cups removable? I think it would be cool to try and custom paint these.
Yeah they are, thatâs my plan eventually (either hydrodip or paint). Also for reference, alcohol, acetone, and d-limonene all work fairly well for removing the paint that is on them already.
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Ooooo, I was probably just gonna be lazy and sand and paint over the original black color, but that might be good too. Youâll have to let me know how that goes.
the magic of extra power doesnt work like that
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fr, headphones are a (mostly) analog technology, they have fixed specifications and power requirements. They donât have some magic in built circuitry that can miraculously extract more detail from a track just because you plugged them into a more powerful amp. An amp canât add more sound or detail than whatâs in the source signal being fed into the amp. Amp lower scaling isnât real. Either a headphone is being powered properly or it isnât.
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The Easter Bunny isnât real either
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Hifiman he-560 - really hungry, but only comparatevily, because 90db per mWatt at 50 omhs is an easy load for almost any amp. So plug them into my smsl m6(130 mWatts in 50 omhs) - 40 out of 60 volume - they sound wrong, worse then my 400i 2020. Then i plugged them into a Topping a30 - better, much better. Then i plugged them into a speaker amp - the mighty 560 were underdriven the whole time. The difference was soo brutally obvious that even Zeos would pick it. Any on those amps were pushing my headphones to the volume 
You can say that the difference was just in the design of those amps, but 560 were exhibiting clear simptoms of underdriving - slow transience, weak bass, no slam, harsh highs. He400i sounded better with A30 than the he-560. Which is a clear sign for me.
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Itâs ok to have an opinion, but throwing something like that out there just misleads people. Power scaling is just objectively real and anyone with difficult to drive planars (or occasional dynamics) that has tried powering them off entry level amps or dongles can attest to that. Iâve listened to free plane earbuds with better control off of a phone than $1000+ planars, because the planars werenât being powered well enough despite getting plenty loud. You might not have experienced it yet, but itâs pathetically obvious (as in anyone with ears can hear the difference, you donât have to be into audio) when you arenât driving planars well enough. Itâs not just raw power either, itâs headroom, capacitor capacity and discharge/charge rate (really shows in sub bass heavy tracks how tight bass is and how fast the amp runs out of steam), power quality (shitty cheap speaker amps have tons of power, but also very low quality sound) and other things as well. Itâs not just a cut and dry âit gets to listening volume so itâs being powered fullyâ and amp quality DRASTICALLY effects the amount of detail and control that actually make it from the DAC to the headphone so that point you tried to make is not just slightly incorrect, itâs blatantly wrong, opinions aside. It might make your wallet feel safer to think like that, but it quite simply isnât true.
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If you say so, dog.
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Hi, new here.
Just got the Edition XS. Love them so far. I noticed something today, after playing some music, I notice the left driver was doing some âclicksâ (like a metallic sound) when I moved my head (like a loose diaphragm). Happen while really gently shacking the headphone on the left side.
This happen for some times, then stopped. And then rehappen after putting headphone is on my head.
Is this normal occurence for planar? Could it be air pocket on the diaphragm? Thought?
aking, since I am new to the planar world.
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Mine make sound on the left side aswell⊠Mine is more like a creaking sound though which is probably just something rubbing on eachother on the hinge
In your experience, what is the best way to burn a headset? Pink noise or music.
Both methods have breaks.
Mine do the same thing with the right driver. Itâs the so-called planar crinkle, apparently itâs kinda normal for planar headphones. On the other hand I donât think every headphone does it to the same degree where it becomes annoying, otherwise it would be always noticeable with both drivers, instead in my case the left one is hardly noticeable, while the right one kinda gets annoying, especially when the sound source isnât a constant barrage of sound (i.e. gaming).
Considering this and the fact that some people resolved this thing by requesting a replacement, Iâm also trying to get a replacement. But I am aware that I could get another pair that does the same thing, so keep that in mind if you have to make a decision.