I think some of the sigma delta dacs I like with those tend to end up being a bit above the 1k mark. If you had to have something sigma delta I think an allo revolution with a shanti lps is pretty great on the more budget side of things (but Iâd assume you would want a larger upgrade), but going up you could try and find a used bryston bda-2 or ayre qb-9 (both around 1.1k used) keeping decently neutral, a mytek liberty would be nice if you wanted to lean a bit more analytical. I do really like something like a crane song solaris quantum with the g111 for something natural neutral but thatâs getting up there in price (1.5k used).
Other good r2r exist in this price range for the lake people like a holo cyan, mhdt orchid, an exogal comet plus (although thatâs fpga), and others but I wouldnât really go higher for a g111
No need, I have plenty of sigma-delta DACs in my life (aka, everything that plays sound in my house ). Just a curiosity is the reason I asked. I considered going to the Allo Revolution DAC (Iâm currently using a Soncoz LA-QXD1). But unless itâs a meaningful improvement over what I have now, I think I would rather wait, save my money, and get an upgrade thatâll really move the needle (such as the Soekris or Denifraps).
Would you say whilst Ares II / G111 is not neutral it is still not overly warm (at least more neutral than a pairing like Modius/Asgard)? The reason I like the pairing is the slightly wider stage, thicker / more body and slightly more engaging sound, in NOS mode, compared to 1321 (but also somewhat pretty smooth and laid back at the same time, possible due to the wider/deeper stage. I havenât spent too much time but i have the impression that OS on Ares II can tilt the sound slightly more neutral than NOS, Altho still different from 1321.
Sooo⌠A) How to change this to 115V? o_ o My German isnât the best. Do I have to unscrew the power cord receptacle with 2 star-tip bits(I donât have these) to access a secret switchâŚ? From what I understand, you lose 50% power by using a 115V cable with the unit set to 230V.
B) According to the manual, itâs factory set to 230V. How can I tell what itâs currently set to? (The US seller claims itâs set to 115V, though how can I tell? - he could not tell or show me)
hm the transformer looks like he has 2 115v coils, a pic of the underside could show a diagram for 115/230V conection
otherwise i can only see the ground isolation pin and the pins for gain setting
Underside of the coil? Or the PCB? Or interior of case on the bottom? I havenât taken anything out yet. Underside of the amp exterior is just black paint, like the top.
Japan is 100v so you wouldnât be able to use it there without a step up transformer lol
Anyways regarding the g111 issue, I have no idea myself, so perhaps shoot an email to arthur I believe at power holdings and see if he can give you any insight
switzerland has some nice locations but living there is pretty expensive
so back to topic did look at my g103 and couldnt find any jumpers for scematics for 230 to 115V conversion, to like MON said best to get the oppionion from a pro
otherwise im wondering why your ground pin isnt conected ?
I donât know. I need an expert! Or a complete manual lol. Just beside the orange-red jumper there, says âGNDâ on the PCB. Looking at the manual, I suppose itâs currently in the RIGHT jumper setting position(âGround disconnectedâ)?
If itâs set to 240V and you use it on 120V, itâll just not work.
Power it on, plug something cheap into it, and proceed depending on what you hear.
Given it doesnât have a switch itâll either have a wire on the bottom of the board bridging the Transformer coils, or less likely itâs auto sensing.
think he tought more of a headphone than a dac, but if nothing goes wrong you simply should have only half the power available and the gain should be lower