Let's talk about computers

Yeah tbh, I am scared of doing custom loops or just AIO cooling in general. I don’t know why but I just have this irrational fear that if I get an AIO cooler, at some point, it’s going to have a leakage therefore ruining my overall rig pretty much. So in order to avoid such headaches, and not have a lot maintenance, had to settle with air cooling and my Deepcool Assassin 3 is doing excellent wonders for my temps.

This is an old picture of my build, for I replaced the single light fans I used to had back then with non-RGB ones, I just like my current cooler for it gives that functional look.

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With an AIO, you only really have to worry about the pump dying. I’m sure that it’s possible for it to leak, but probably only a bit more likely than a tower cooler’s mounting bracket failing. Especially if you don’t get one that can’t be refilled and is completely sealed off.

But air cooling is much more maintenance and worry free. The only thing that can die is a fan.

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…Now that you have mentioned it, I remember the time when I saw a pic of a motherboard being broken in half due to the CPU cooler’s mounting bracket affecting the board or possibly its weight making the cooler fall off and break the motherboard.

Yep one of my worst nightmares, but I really should not worry about it if I mounted mine right in the first place.

And like most PC hardware when you buy well made stuff by reputable brands it helps a lot.
Like with air coolers Noctua are the golden standard not only in terms of cooling performance, but reliability and customer support (from personal experience).

When it comes to AIOs (and water cooling in general) the two major companies are EK and Arctic cooling, both have fairly large custom water cooling products, but when it comes to AIOs they are very similar to Noctua’s approach where performance and reliability are their top priority (both companies are European like Noctua).

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Raspberry Pi can become a DiY Chromecast Audio device now.

Guys I just realized something today, so it turns out I have been using my Windows 10 in Legacy mode…Yeah, I have been using mine in that mode for like 5 years plus now and I wasn’t aware with that fact back then until today. Now I converted mine to UEFI, I guess it’s all good and dandy from now on, though it’s kind of a rookie mistake for me to even overlook this lol.

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It’s possible that when you built the computer you actually had to use Legacy mode and had just forgotten. It isn’t uncommon for storage drives and motherboards to not want to recognize each other and boot if Legacy mode isn’t enabled. It happened with my brother’s Z490 Strix-F and 970Evo. So he is still on Legacy mode.

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Yeah probably, I mean my SX8200 Pro that I got was the first version of it, before the ADATA scummy SSD swapping happened. So I guess I shouldn’t be surprised if mine still ran in Legacy mode, but hey despite all of that, my rig still worked though despite all of that.

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Finally done… It ain’t perfect but i finally got around to redoing all of my cable management of my desk

P.s. The reason for the gap in the cable channel is because its the connecting point between the two table tops

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Uncle Crinacle critiques Linus’ $50,000 H.A.T.S. purchase.

I do love uncle crinacle

Hi guys. Need some help here again, as I know precious little about computers.
I have the Asus Zenbook 14…2020/21 that I use for music too. Have had many
updates recently and now the volume on speakers and headphone jack is very
low. Usb out to my dac seems unchanged. Hoping this is a simple reinstall something again (headphone jack was a problem once before.) Thanks much.

In windows, rightclick the speaker icon on the task bar. Click “Sounds”. Change the Category to “Playback”, open the properties to the device and under levels, check both sliders in balance are at 100

@MazeFrame Thanks…did that and all ok there, dependent on vol. buttons on
keyboard…were in balance. Overall vol. however is still less than it used to be.
Before 2/3 to 3/4 vol was plenty for speakers and simple headphones, but now I
have to turn to max just to hear things adequately, whether my music from Spotify or AMHD or YT videos (which I know can vary too.)

Is it me, or do articles like this seem more like angry lashing out and fear mongering?

There’s risks to buying practically anything used, including PC parts.

About average on the BS scale. Do not get your tech news/advice from Bloomberg, Forbes, Verge or whatever TechRadar thinks they are doing.

I get being careful with your purchases, but that’s a piece advocating for more hate towards miners. I understand distain towards them, and it’s not like some miners didn’t instigate some of it with a superiority complex. However, I do not agree with this spiteful behavior.

A lot of the outlets and youtubers are more focused on the 40 series and the rumored power draw being around 600 watts (on the high end cards) normally and with spikes that hit 1000+ draw - Which would mean that i high end GPU would draw more than an entire system.

One thing that doesn’t come up in the video is the heat output that sort of card would produce, probablly a 4 slot card with a massive cooler and spewing out enough heat to heat an entire house

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Back to the days of using a PC as a space heater

So I decided I needed something quieter. So I just the other day installed a Noctua NH-C14S CPU cooler.

It’s not working to hard, put it on a Athlon 3000g :upside_down_face:

The HTPC is now frosty

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