I know this is a long shot… But does anyone currently use a third party program for configuring a screen saver on Windows? In my case, I’d use it cycle though images.
I have two displays connected. But I only want it to either show it one screen or just mirror the image on both screens. The built in Windows function will center the image across the two screens
I’ve not used it but there’s some options on DisplayFusion that might be helpful. I use powertools for mulit monitor window snapping but I don’t use screen savers so haven’t tested with that.
Another option that’s free, since you are OK with duplicating screens for wallpapers, that would work if you manually lock your screens (Win+L) to toss up the screen savers, make an AutoHotKey script that changes Win+L to Win+P (repeat until duplicate option is selected) and then hits Win+L at the end, then another hotkey to unlock and disable the duplicate when done.
LoI I literally just came across displayfusion minutes ago. It looks like it’ll do the job. Though I’d prefer not spending $30 on it for a single feature. I’ll wait to see if the Steam version gets discounted for the Summer sale lol.
In the mean time I’ll look around for more options.
Also when you say “powertools” are you talking about Microsoft’s PowerToys?
Well, got my other 2x8 kit of RAM in today to go from 16GB to 32GB. Was it necessary? No. But given the rest of the parts in the system, it really didn’t make sense to keep with just 16GB. After all, the only reason I’d gotten a single 2x8 kit to begin with was because I wanted to dip my toes into RAM overclocking. So when I built my new PC back in November I splurged and got a kit of 4000 15-16-16-36. Heavily binned Samsung B-die. The really good stuff. And then I never really did anything with it after tightening down the secondary/tertiary timings . Which leads to today.
Samsung B-die does not like running in a 4-DIMM configuration at speeds of 4000+ on Z490. And the memory controller on Intel’s 10th Gen CPU’s? They aren’t very fond of running high speed RAM while also running heavy core/cache overclocks either. I know I could pull back my core/cache from 5.3/5.0 on my 10900KF to a more sensible 5.0/4.8. But I hit the silicon lottery big time with this CPU, and I don’t want to give up my OC.
The solution then? Voltage! But only a little . DRAM to 1.6V, VCCSA and VCCIO to 1.4V, DRAM current capacity to 130%, and so far, so good. Temps are fine, stressed without a crash or HWiNFO64 giving errors, and I even managed to pull the primaries down from 15-16-16-36 to 14-15-15-35 . Granted, I have loosened the secondary/tertiary timings a bit, but I may play with them some over the next few days and see if I can bring some of them back down.
Oh, and for what it’s worth, I do not recommend anyone else that is currently in the market looking to build a new computer get RAM rated at 4000+ speeds. I knew when I was buying it that I was being silly and just wasting money.
Guys what do you think of this? I know I know it’s not one of your best Noctua fans out there in the market but it is better than nothing. I wanted to give the Assassin 3 a try since I have heard some great things about it in terms of reviews. Just want to know if I get the right cooler or not.
From the reviews I’ve seen, I think you’re pretty well served. My recommendation is just to tweak the fan curve until you get the balance you want between noise and cooling. But that’s for every cooler out there, not just the Assassin 3.
I’m still a fan of tower cooler for easier maintenance, and I will say the market seems to got a lot of competitive options. I myself went Noctua during a sale with the NH-U12S Black, and it has served me well for the last year or so. But right now there other good options that I do recommend, especially for lower powered and/or non overclocked CPUs.
Ok so I installed the fan but there were some issues that I overlooked and consider it as a rookie mistake and basically did some adjustments for it to be in the build and man the look of it is a bit ridiculous.
This picture shows that this is the right picture to install the cooler right? But I cannot do that since one, when I installed the cooler this way, the tempered glass side panel that I have for this is useless, for I cannot close it since the width of the case is not enough to have it closed. Two is that my RAM sticks are not fucking low profile and I am not planning to get a new set of RAM sticks anytime soon.
And man it looks funny and not right to me, but the fans are still installed on the usual way of intake to exhaust but I had to do like a reverse way of it and man it sucks that it looks even more cooler when the CPU cooler is installed as it should be. Going to get a new case instead since I am planning to give this case of mine to my brother, I just hope the new case that I am saving up for can mitigate this.
P.S. I also removed the heat sink that attached to my motherboard just to be able to use this cooler this way, but still the look of it to me, is still jarring but the silver-lining all of these is that it works well, and my ideal temps went down by a lot.
So, another option that you have, though how well it will work will depend on the mounting clips, is to buy a 120mm fan and use on the front of the cooler. That would give you more than enough clearance for the RAM, and you wouldn’t see that much of a performance loss. Especially with a good high static pressure fan from, say, Noctua or Corsair.
That’s exactly what I did, and the fans are still at their usual setup but like I used the brackets behind each fan’s hole instead of the usual insertion to the front. Don’t worry it’s all intake to exhaust, and the rear fan is also exhaust.
I have already a 120mm fan and it’s from my previous cooler, that could work as well, but due to the given amount of time for me to install this cooler, I think I am going to stick with this setup for a while since it’s working fine and not messing up my temps.
Man I wish I’d found this out years ago. Seems the “word on the street” is manufacturers tend to overvolt all CPUs and GPUs just to guarantee stability regardless of unit variation, but this leads to overconsumption of power and overheating for most people. And especially with the hotter and hotter weather, everyone (but especially us AMD types) could benefit from undervolting their cores: less power draw, less heat, not much loss of performance. Hell, you could even overclock a bit at the same time, and fully compensate for any loss of performance due to voltage.
I’m currently running my FX8320 at 1.275 V instead of 1.3, with clock to 4.0 GHz instead of 3.5, and I’m seeing 20-35 W less consumption with 8-9% better performance in single-threaded and even more in multi. Ran a few hours of what I consider “heavy load” and got no crashes. I might try to drop even more voltage, see how economical I can make this monster.
This was really bad on the Intel 8th and 9th Gen Z-series boards. It has gotten a bit better as the algorithms used by the board vendors to determine CPU silicon quality has improved. So if you have a better CPU that requires less voltage to hold the advertised boost clocks, the board will set a lower voltage when left to auto. But you are correct in that you will likely still get better results if you take the time to dial things in yourself.
What gets truly maddening is when they do silly things like this in laptops. A simple undervolt of 50-150mV on most modern(ish) intel laptops will see them hit higher boosts and stay boosted more consistently. Especially on gaming laptops. It helps with both power and temp limits.
PC shipments are being forecast to drop now. rising prices and shortages will play a part, but one of the biggest reason will be due to all the buying that happened when so many needed to be outfitted for working from home. those PC’s and notebook don’t need to be replaced.
I’m gonna bet that Windows 11 and it’s TPM requirements isn’t going to help in any way either.
Manufacturers tend to enable firmware TPM by default in laptops and prebuilts (some of the custom PC places have issues though).
It’s secure boot that will likely be the real issue. It’s been a while but I know that Dell and Acer used to disable it by default in their laptops, it has so many unfixable flaws that it’s barely worth the effort since bootkits are hard to do anyway.
. Which leads to today.
But only a little 
. DRAM to 1.6V, VCCSA and VCCIO to 1.4V, DRAM current capacity to 130%, and so far, so good. Temps are fine, stressed without a crash or HWiNFO64 giving errors, and I even managed to pull the primaries down from 15-16-16-36 to 14-15-15-35 
. Granted, I have loosened the secondary/tertiary timings a bit, but I may play with them some over the next few days and see if I can bring some of them back down.
