And a lot more wiring to fuck with.
Why go with the dual 6.5 (which produce less bass then the 6x8 drivers already in the truck) over a single larger driver?
Edit: I should note, rather then wire the tweeters to the -2db option on the crossover, on the head unit I’ve used the bass boost up one level and the trebble at -2.
Well the 6.5 does produce more bass, it’s ability to move air/sound helps with that. Xmax on a normal sub is usually in the 10mm area. Xmax is how much the cone can move in and out without damage. A speaker like your MTX 6x8 will usually have an xmax of 5mm or less so they don’t move enough to produce that deep bass or low frequencies. There is also enclosure tuning and frequency response that plays into this but no 6x8 will keep up with a decent 6.5 sub unless the 6x8 is designed as a sub.
You can also get a larger sub I just found that sale as an example of budget.
How does the bass boost on the mtx sound? Can I assume its a +2 setting on the crossover?
The crossover is passive and is either full or -2db in case they are too sharp. I just don’t feel like taking the door panels back off to move around the wires. Easier to hit a couple buttons on the head unit. The bass boost adds depth and better impact. Even when I just had the front hooked up, it was enjoyable, though I usually had it cranked to 20-25 out of 35.
Edit - sorry, it’s -3db by switching where the negative wire for the tweeter is connected
Once you deaden and seal your doors it should smooth out the sound and will make a great base to upgrade gear later if you choose too.
I agree using the head unit, it’s way easier to adjust that to taste rather than opening the doors.
That is something I’m probably going to leave up to a shop to do rather then myself. Wanna make sure it’s something that gets done right the first time. I’ve got other priorities first though. The tool box for the bed, probably replace the doors (since it looked like someone had tried breaking in before I bought it and bent the door), replace the weather stripping (one on the driver side is torn in a couple spots and can leak), get my own place so I’m not driving ~40 miles just to get to work.
It’s good to have priorities figured out and don’t be afraid to try deadening yourself. It’s not a big job just have to research materials and beat way to apply them.
Stinger used to have a foam butal matting that worked great and not to expensive. My my last build very solid.
Im actually bit surprised that there are so many nice looking premade sub boxes… the amount for different pickup trucks alone. You can leave the sub out take just the box or take a sub and amp with the package. That’s amazing!
That’s actually really easy if you take time finding materials you like and knowing how to make them soft touch. I used to do a bunch of vinyl work that would feel like leather after I was done.
They don’t make one for my truck
i’d bet there is a ready made box, somewhere. Even for your truck.
And i did mention the DIY. Plus someone else build box, single 10" for a truck to give ideas how it could look.
For dimensions, at the maximum points: 14" deep X 17.5" wide X 18" high. This is not accounting for some curved corners or the angle of the seat.
@Etroze86 what about something like this:
I’m having trouble finding a pre-fabricated box that will fit and still meet the 1 cubic foot requirement of this particular sub (and most of the ones in finding. Skar kinda has me nervous going with them given their high power ratings)
Sundown Audio E-10 V.3 D4 10" 500W RMS Dual 4-Ohm EV.3 Series Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CKSS3TO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_STVGA3GVGSWG42W8HYD7
One option I’ve found that could work would be:
https://www.supercrewsound.com/RangerECsingle.html
The problem is, when I call the number, no answer. It looks like a sealed enclosure, but doesn’t specify.
Edit: they just called me back. They can make it ported, but couldn’t give me much information.
Oh it’s been awhile since I’ve bought an enclosure. I’d did crazy shit with fiber glass lol. If you have a shop close to you I can almost put money on that they will have a wedge style prefab that will be close to your requirements. The super crew box looks good also. Looks like 1/4" mdf and a decent carpet on it while retain your seat movement.
I wouldn’t worry about the higher power rating for the skar sub. The sundown has a better motor design and will make better use of your amp specially in a proper enclosure.
In theory, if I stuck with the 5 channel amp, used that box and the Sundown sub and wired in parallel (theorizing 2ohm final), despite the rating of the amp being 100W lower then the rating of the sub, I should still be perfectly fine, correct?
Yes you should just when tuning the gain don’t peg it.
build your enclosure. only takes a saw. then it can be exactly what you need. hell you dont even need a saw if you have a menards. they will cut up a piece of plywood on their table saw for free that you buy. typically they only do 1 or 2 cuts, but i bet you can easily talk the guy into doing a couple more. its in the lumber barn.
you can then make it all you want it to be 
also search for low profile subs. there are quite a few manufactures that make them and they are usually around the same price as a regular sub, they just typically handle less juice.
check that site out. a subwoofer is a subwoofer. their subs are cheaper then most car subs and typically sound a lot better, but dont have the massive wattage that car subs typically have. but you are in a crew cab and not sticking them in a trunk. you dont need 1000 watt sub for that.
edit: their boxes are generic and they dont have that many, so you probably wont find the box there. but they have some nice drivers.
edit2: i should also tell you that their dual voice coil subs have the specs different then most. the one i linked is 2ohm/coil and the ratted wattage is the combined they can handle when run in series. they do that with all their dual voice coil parts. most have it as for example 200watts + 200 watts, where they would list it as 400watts.
Okay, how about this: stuff or no?
Generally if you have the correct size enclosure you not need stuffing. When building I rarely use any.
Putting very old pillows blankets to good use. Dont even know how many i have used… lol
I probably have stuffed all my boxes, vented or not to make wanted changes.
1990’s was a popular decade and decline began in 2000’s. My Mazda MX-3 had spare tire well glassed with sealed enclosure for two 12" Eclipse Aluminums and it hit low 130db.
