and even if it’s old stock. It’s still brand new and never been used. Probably. 
We also have few Alpine SWR available so in local stores.
If someone really wants one, it possible to have. Just need to “work” bit more than click a amazon/crutchfield shopping cart.
There also few other slim design brands and as we know. Small magnet 10-12" are also available and can be fitted in small/slim shaped boxes.
My favorite slim sub is the stereo integrity bmkm3. If you ever get ahold of one it’s nuts. Gets low, ultra low distortion and doesn’t need tons of power.
Personally i have liked A LOT of Focal car drivers/speakers and subs.
They do sound really good in terms of sound quality with good amps and proper installation and subs also give bit punch when pushed. Even the “budget” line if they have one.
Nothing crazy SPL reading but most would consider it enough. Specially in cabin environment.
Think this is pretty new design from them? Have not seen it before.
Focal Flax Evo P25FSE, 10" sub.
Could be pretty good choice for small cabins and SQ in mind.
One (or two 
) of these and enough power should be good.
Then how does it work.
So speaker W RMS does not in any way equate subwoofer W RMS. Gotcha.
English please.
If we’re going into things outside the budget, please don’t. I’d still like to be able to use the other part of the space in the back of my truck.
Like I’ve stated before, I don’t like the idea of vibrating my truck to pieces with bass, and don’t plan to wake the neighbors or my 3 year old nephew when I come home late. I like a clean, warm sound. Not “let’s liquefy your brains so it comes out your fucking ears” levels while overpowering the rest of the audible spectrum with just bass.
Before we go getting pissy that I’m being hostile, then here’s my question… Why won’t you listen? And please don’t say you are, cause it certainly doesn’t seem like it. At most you seem to take one piece of info and fuck the rest. It’s always interesting to watch people flip shit when I start putting my foot down and suddenly I’m just being mean and hostile, apparently.
So car audio like home audio you are working in a space withe material that either reflect or absorb sound. Your seat will absorb more of the bass than you would think while the speakers that is on the passenger side has a direct path to your ear.
Had a 98 Mazda b3000 Im familiar with the limitations.
Ok so distortion is a funny thing. Most people think it’s the sound of the speaker breaking up or sounding awful. The simplest way I can explain it is that It’s the ability to play sound without the speakers limitations/materials influencing the sound. Have you ever been listening to a sound in a vehicle and thought oh the treble is getting to be to much so you turn it down. That’s the tweeter/mid distorting. No if you have a speaker that has ultra low distortion you won’t get that ear fatigue unless you are listening to seriously loud music. Hope this makes sense.
The mag 12 used to be less expensive than anything JL had. You are paying for a name with the JL subs. I haven’t made any suggestions that will liquefy your brain unless you want it too. Your volume and gain settings are going to be key here and if you are doing the install it’s your responsibility to understand how to tune them to your liking. The reason I give you suggestions that seem like they are louder is that while tuning it’s easier to turn a speaker down than it is to turn up. This method 99% of the time negates any buyers remorse or damage to your speakers.
Definitely not going to flip shit I’m typing this on my phone, making dinner, doing work and drinking beer. I get distracted and don’t always point out or direct what I think is obvious.
Ok so direct method.
The JL will work fine, I think you are over paying for 10s. I also think once you get used to it you’ll want to turn it up more. It’s the Nature of how our brains adjust to sound.
Road noise will play a big role in this as well since the old danger rangers weren’t the most quiet thing to go down the road. You’ll inherently be turning up the volume because of this.
If you have a car audio shop near you definitely go take a listen to what they have, maybe you can get a demo of the sound you are looking for. That’s probably the best advice I can give you. Go experience it before buying if at all possible.
Even if I went with something like this:
Sundown Audio E-10 V.3 D4 10" 500W RMS Dual 4-Ohm EV.3 Series Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CKSS3TO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_4X38Q21A8VBM25GKGF9W
Or this:
Skar Audio SVR-10 D4 10" 1600 Watt Max Power Dual 4 Ohm Car Subwoofer, 10" - Dual 4 Ohm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZQN6SKG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_NWT8S52KK157BDFN39WG?psc=1
Would I not be leaving performance on the table or under powering it by going with the Kenwood amp linked earlier? Or would I really need to crank my budget higher to make things work‽
Kenwood spec’s mentioned to be 300 @ 4ohm for the sub.
If you planned using the 4x50 for front speakers + rear speakers.
So a JL Audio 10W0v3-4 or JL Audio 10TW1-4 is more in the right power range, on 10" sized sub.
When I build for sound quality I ideally would want to have double the RMS of the speaker available for headroom when I tune. 5 ch amps never have enough power for that but your situation it’ll do just fine. I use a DSP so the headroom is needed as you eq down peaks in the frequency response.
So long story long yes you leave performance on the table with the available power of you amplifier. Will it damage the sub? No not unless you push your amp to clipping.
Did I miss you budget earlier in the thread? What are you looking at for Max spend?
Front:
Rear:
I haven’t set an exact max spend so much as what I feel is more reasonable. Throwing a $1k USD component in a mix where everything else is much cheaper seems l rather unreasonable. Like pairing a 3080ti with a core i3.
I’ve been doing things in stages. First the stereo, then the front speakers, followed by the rears (partiality cause I had to fabricate new mounts out of mdf). It would be kinda hard to do the sub without the amp, so if I don’t do them both at the same time, I’ll probably do the amp next and the sub following. I’d probably rather not go much past $500 US for an amp
low frequency takes more energy because the waves are longer. driver size should not matter. it takes the same energy for a 6 1/2" woofer to produce a 30hz sine wave as it does an 18" driver with the same DB rating. the 6 1/2 just moves a lot more then the 18 to accomplish it. rms is total long term wattage a speaker can handle, i.e. what it tops out at DB wise.
personally, unless your going to treat your car, subs sound like shit in all cars. cars rattle. and you hear that rattle.
you have room back there for dual 10" in a slim cab. point them at the back of your truck, not towards you. you want subs reflecting in cars before they get absorbed by the interior. @Etroze86 is 100% right about seats absorbing bass response. they will eat it up.
do you need to use the back seats ever?
edit: thats the 12" version of that kicker combo i linked. they also make a smaller 10" version. not sure your exact measured room back there.
edit2: and alternately, if you got a couple tool and are handy, diy sub boxes are cheap and easy to make. and drivers are really cheap without the box.
Ok so for shits and giggles you pick up this set from sound cubed for you bass needs.
That leaves a good deal for a 4 ch amp like this.
It’ll be less than a grand, sound great but adds a little complexity.
You have the right idea with the 5 ch amp to keep it simple and in the end you’ll be fine with your selection of gear. I just know there is better for less out there than jl.
At some point, I do plan to, however I just am not at a position to go an extended period of time without my truck.
Yes. Yes I do. I’ve had a passenger in the back seat behind the passenger seat on multiple occasions. Once I’ve secured a tool box for the bed, I’ll have all the tools currently living in the back in the locked box instead of taking up that space.
Edit: the only back seat I don’t plan on using is the one behind the driver’s seat
And a lot more wiring to fuck with.
Why go with the dual 6.5 (which produce less bass then the 6x8 drivers already in the truck) over a single larger driver?
Edit: I should note, rather then wire the tweeters to the -2db option on the crossover, on the head unit I’ve used the bass boost up one level and the trebble at -2.
Well the 6.5 does produce more bass, it’s ability to move air/sound helps with that. Xmax on a normal sub is usually in the 10mm area. Xmax is how much the cone can move in and out without damage. A speaker like your MTX 6x8 will usually have an xmax of 5mm or less so they don’t move enough to produce that deep bass or low frequencies. There is also enclosure tuning and frequency response that plays into this but no 6x8 will keep up with a decent 6.5 sub unless the 6x8 is designed as a sub.
You can also get a larger sub I just found that sale as an example of budget.
How does the bass boost on the mtx sound? Can I assume its a +2 setting on the crossover?
The crossover is passive and is either full or -2db in case they are too sharp. I just don’t feel like taking the door panels back off to move around the wires. Easier to hit a couple buttons on the head unit. The bass boost adds depth and better impact. Even when I just had the front hooked up, it was enjoyable, though I usually had it cranked to 20-25 out of 35.
Edit - sorry, it’s -3db by switching where the negative wire for the tweeter is connected
Once you deaden and seal your doors it should smooth out the sound and will make a great base to upgrade gear later if you choose too.
I agree using the head unit, it’s way easier to adjust that to taste rather than opening the doors.
That is something I’m probably going to leave up to a shop to do rather then myself. Wanna make sure it’s something that gets done right the first time. I’ve got other priorities first though. The tool box for the bed, probably replace the doors (since it looked like someone had tried breaking in before I bought it and bent the door), replace the weather stripping (one on the driver side is torn in a couple spots and can leak), get my own place so I’m not driving ~40 miles just to get to work.
It’s good to have priorities figured out and don’t be afraid to try deadening yourself. It’s not a big job just have to research materials and beat way to apply them.
Stinger used to have a foam butal matting that worked great and not to expensive. My my last build very solid.
Im actually bit surprised that there are so many nice looking premade sub boxes… the amount for different pickup trucks alone. You can leave the sub out take just the box or take a sub and amp with the package. That’s amazing!
