didja look at the used market? you’ll probably get something awesome for the same price as an inferior product.!
You mean kicker or the underseat powered 8in sub? I just want to hear the boom in the cab when i play lorde royals.
How about pioneer single 10in with enclosure $119 on amazon ?
well there’s your problem.
You kinda need bigger enclosure for sub to hit low notes or ported.
If you just want some boom, 10-12" are fine. You probably need a amp to drive it also.
Not a fan of underseat “mid-bass” sub’s.
If you look “Shallow Loaded Enclsoure Subwoofer” they probably give enough boom for cabin.
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Think im going to wait and see if a deal pops up on black friday. Only thought about adding a sub due to the empty ch on my new amp which had to buy after the stock one gave out. fishing new speaker wires for the front doors reminded why i changed hobbies.
Have you taken a look at tacotunz yet? They build specific enclosures to Tacoma’s.
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Think im going to try one of those under seat deals if they go on sale over the holidays, Will report impressions.
In my experience with self contained under seat applications you’ll want more. My recommendation is buy the biggest sub you can fit and afford when talking about mainstream caraudio. This leaves you with room to grow with amplification and quality down the road.
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Then you run into people like me who have a particular reason for planning for something smaller for a particular reason. Single 10" sub when I could probably get away with a 12", even in my Ranger. I’m planning on a JL 10TW3-D4 (more because trying to find something I’ll be confident can handle the dual 8ohm without having to do multiple amps) or JL 10TW1-4. I care more about quality, and the subs ability to keep up with faster paced music, over rattling my truck apart with the wubbs.
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Hooked up one of my front room subs for S&G, had to stop myself. If they dont open the airports soon the regrets for bad decisions are going to pile up.
Im hiding tape measures all over the house.
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Size of the sub does not dictate quality of sound. I had an 18 that I built that would eat smaller subs for breakfast in terms of sound quality and the sun cost $150 bucks.
What amp are you running? Just about anything can power the dual 8 ohm unless you are talking exotic amps. I’m curious of the amount of power you’re working with.
So that’s another thing I suggest is if you have a sub that measures well ported run it ported. Your volume knob should be the only thing that gets you into trouble.
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I did say I was planning… didn’t I? Besides, I’d rather not go alerting the whole neighborhood of my arrival or vibrating my truck. An 18 would be a bit big for the size in working with anyways, not to mention that, from my understanding, past a 12" can start having trouble keeping up with faster paced metal and such. I enjoy some edm and lofi, but I don’t chase the structure shaking thump a lot of people seem to focus on.
Kenwood X802-5 eXcelon 500-Watt Class D 5-Channel Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NF9SL8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_E9R34X172K6PPXNMC2RD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I’ve been planning on using. Already installed MTX Thunder series 6x8 speakers in the front and rear (component in the front, coaxial in the rear) and an Alpine CDE-172BT for my head unit
Lol yes totally understand you are planning. Sorry if I came off elitist I’ve been writing at work all day and it can come off that way if I don’t shift my style. 18s are definitely to big for most people, I used it as an example as whoever said the size of the speaker will dictate if it can keep up with certain types of music is wrong. I usually listen to metal and it would do just fine of not better than guys running mega buck systems.
So the reason for the recommendation of getting the biggest you can fit is it’s super easy to turn down a sub rather than trying to turn it up and ruining from clipping.
If you can fit it and afford it I would take a look a a 12tw5 from JL or the shallow type r from alpine. Great subs while staying in the mainstream arena. If you want to get crazy take a look at illusion audio. They had a wild shallow mount that SQ guys drool over.
The Kenwood is a respectable amp but taking it up a notch for I’d look at the alpine pdx amps. They are solid and the internals are better built than most lower prices amps. And further up Gladen audio makes amps that are to die for.
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If I had the budget, I would have looked for matching Focal speakers. Between the budget constraints I had at the time and wanting to match the speakers, I went with the MTX. I’ve been fairly happy with them, even running off the head unit. As I’m planning on placing the sub behind the driver’s seat, and the small nature of my truck, I’ve been looking more at the 10" subs, particularly the TW1 and TW3 series from JL, as:
- from my understanding, JL is one of the better brands
- while they may be shadow mount, from my understanding based off reviews, they don’t act like it.
Price and reduced complexity have had me leaning towards the TW1 over the TW3, beyond the smaller volume requirements and reduced forward clearance (doesn’t stick out as far).
Going to an Alpine PDX would also mean increasing the amp budget by about a factor of 3, depending on where you buy. That’s a little much for me.
Gotta remember, it’s going on this old girl. Given the manufacturing date she’s about 20 years off the line, and I haven’t sent her in to be sound treated.
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JL is decent, not a sub that takes abuse if you run them to clipping so just be aware but they do sound good. Iirc the Alpine is less money and they tend to be more robust and take a little more abuse. Shallow mount subs sound shallow when you get into that type of sub. Oh maybe a sundown shallow mount or skar shallow mount would work well for you and not cost a ton. Oh and take a look at wiring diagrams. Once you see dual voice coil wiring compared to single voice coil it’s not anymore complicated. I believe Rockford foagate has a great wiring wizard to help you out.
The Alpine is also discontinued
Dang I just saw one in a shop near me lol must be old stock.
Okay, the Sundown audio isn’t that much cheaper, and has me wondering what the fuck kinda material did they use for the cone… The Skar… idk… it seems either the Walmart cheap price or wants hella power. Even then, the 10" prefab box with the sub for $136 on Amazon is still 600w rms. If I was pushing 75w rms into each channel of the other speakers, that would throw the balance into 33%-67%. Kinda unbalanced.
This is good reading havent kept up with car audio since the 90s.
So balance doesn’t work that way in caraudio. Distances are greater and you have separate speakers for each region of sound. Bass tends to take way more power to make loud because of the physical size and material of the speaker. Motor force and efficiency play into this as well but doesn’t really matter unless you are building and enclosure to a specific frequency.
So I ran the skar vvx 10s back in the day and due to motor design they take power very welland sound good. Same is for the sundown but the sundown is based on their SA sub that is incredibly low distortion so you don’t get that massive kick that you hear instead you feel it. It’s different when you hear it. Another sub to check out is a stereo integrity Mag 12. I had one in my last build that’ll run with the really expensive sq subs but will get rowdy if you want it too.