That’s actually really easy if you take time finding materials you like and knowing how to make them soft touch. I used to do a bunch of vinyl work that would feel like leather after I was done.
They don’t make one for my truck
i’d bet there is a ready made box, somewhere. Even for your truck.
And i did mention the DIY. Plus someone else build box, single 10" for a truck to give ideas how it could look.
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For dimensions, at the maximum points: 14" deep X 17.5" wide X 18" high. This is not accounting for some curved corners or the angle of the seat.
Edit: or that point where the seat belt for the middle seat is
@Etroze86 what about something like this:
I’m having trouble finding a pre-fabricated box that will fit and still meet the 1 cubic foot requirement of this particular sub (and most of the ones in finding. Skar kinda has me nervous going with them given their high power ratings)
Sundown Audio E-10 V.3 D4 10" 500W RMS Dual 4-Ohm EV.3 Series Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CKSS3TO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_STVGA3GVGSWG42W8HYD7
One option I’ve found that could work would be:
https://www.supercrewsound.com/RangerECsingle.html
The problem is, when I call the number, no answer. It looks like a sealed enclosure, but doesn’t specify.
Edit: they just called me back. They can make it ported, but couldn’t give me much information.
Oh it’s been awhile since I’ve bought an enclosure. I’d did crazy shit with fiber glass lol. If you have a shop close to you I can almost put money on that they will have a wedge style prefab that will be close to your requirements. The super crew box looks good also. Looks like 1/4" mdf and a decent carpet on it while retain your seat movement.
I wouldn’t worry about the higher power rating for the skar sub. The sundown has a better motor design and will make better use of your amp specially in a proper enclosure.
In theory, if I stuck with the 5 channel amp, used that box and the Sundown sub and wired in parallel (theorizing 2ohm final), despite the rating of the amp being 100W lower then the rating of the sub, I should still be perfectly fine, correct?
Yes you should just when tuning the gain don’t peg it.
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build your enclosure. only takes a saw. then it can be exactly what you need. hell you dont even need a saw if you have a menards. they will cut up a piece of plywood on their table saw for free that you buy. typically they only do 1 or 2 cuts, but i bet you can easily talk the guy into doing a couple more. its in the lumber barn.
you can then make it all you want it to be 
also search for low profile subs. there are quite a few manufactures that make them and they are usually around the same price as a regular sub, they just typically handle less juice.
check that site out. a subwoofer is a subwoofer. their subs are cheaper then most car subs and typically sound a lot better, but dont have the massive wattage that car subs typically have. but you are in a crew cab and not sticking them in a trunk. you dont need 1000 watt sub for that.
edit: their boxes are generic and they dont have that many, so you probably wont find the box there. but they have some nice drivers.
edit2: i should also tell you that their dual voice coil subs have the specs different then most. the one i linked is 2ohm/coil and the ratted wattage is the combined they can handle when run in series. they do that with all their dual voice coil parts. most have it as for example 200watts + 200 watts, where they would list it as 400watts.
Okay, how about this: stuff or no?
Generally if you have the correct size enclosure you not need stuffing. When building I rarely use any.
Putting very old pillows blankets to good use. Dont even know how many i have used… lol
I probably have stuffed all my boxes, vented or not to make wanted changes.
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1990’s was a popular decade and decline began in 2000’s. My Mazda MX-3 had spare tire well glassed with sealed enclosure for two 12" Eclipse Aluminums and it hit low 130db.