RikudouGoku's Database (IEMs/Earbuds/Headphones Ranking list)

My guess is that anyone that prefers full-range and Sub is probably either just getting a low-end boost that causes them to have preference for higher volume (assuming that they didn’t do actual matched A/B) or they are accidentally fixing nulls in the room that could be worked around by just utilizing proper positioning and either measuring the FR or going it by ear. It is also dependent on volume and how hard you are driving your speakers; distortion from drivers playing outside of their parameters may not reach audible levels or become obnoxious before you drive the speakers hard enough to hear it, in which case if it doesn’t bother them then it’s irrelevant.
The thing that gets me about the A5 is that it has toggles on the board for the LED colors, but I don’t see anything for the output controls relative to the high-pass for different purposes (sub, additional amp or active monitors). Their previous model, the A100, has knobs and toggles for all of those things:



Granted it’s a more expensive amp by a factor of 2X but it seems like an easy thing to integrate if they are supposed to serve the same purpose.

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Haha yeah, RGB more important you know. :joy:

Hopefully I get a clear answer from them and or the manual will show more.

Did see the A100 but that is a low-pass filter rather than high-pass I believe?

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Always hahaha

That’s what it looks like, although pouring over the literature it looks like A100 ALSO outputs full-range over the speaker outputs and only adjusts the Hz/volume/output on the 3.5mm output for subs. That leads me to believe that the high-pass on the A5 is all-or-nothing as well. It may be too tricky or expensive to implement independent high-pass for speakers and full-output or low-pass for the sub in such a compact package, or maybe they’re working on it and just haven’t quite gotten there. Or the demand may not be sufficient to go that far.

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Manual for the A100.

“1. correctly connect one mono or one pair of speakers or subwoofer to the speaker jacks of the A100, the 3.5mm AUX output also supports to be connected to another amplifier, active subwoofer or speakers to build multi-channel system.”

Implies that it works with passive speaker + active sub I think. But this table.


Confuses me since it looks like u can either use it with subs or speakers? Unless these are referring to passive ones and you can still use it at the same time with active sub…

Still doesnt tell you anything about the low-pass filter here.

Seems like the AUX does not have any filters here, so the low-pass filter does not work in the A100. I guess the A100 low-pass filter is only for using it with PASSIVE subs? (and only passive subs and not with another passive speaker.)

If its the same on the A5, that would mean the high-pass filter is only for the passive speakers. And will not be on for the AUX out to the active sub.

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The switch for “Full” or “Sub” is so that you can output the 3.5mm to active monitors (since you can’t use the speaker terminals), with the mono or stereo allowing you to output summed to a single channel or as stereo. At least, that’s how it reads to me; that you can use the output with a low-pass as an output to an active sub OR as a preout to active monitors.

If I’m reading that correctly, it’s stating that the pre-amp with Aux Out is a function similar to the active monitor setting (same as the Stereo/Mono with “flat” setting) so that you can use it as a pre-amp to other amplifiers with the full range. The aux DOES have filters, but they only work in the “sub” setting.

Regarding the A5, yeah, if the High-pass can’t be used independently of the speaker outputs, that makes it useless for running with a sub lol. As we discussed, you would still just run everything full-range and then use the crossover dial on the sub itself to blend. Again, since there appears to be no toggle for the A5’s outputs other than that singe dial, I suspect that it’s all-or-nothing.

As a sidenote, this is why I run MiniDSP 2x4HD’s on both of my speaker/sub setups; easy, independent control of the outputs that I can set and forget completely agnostic of the other components in the chain. And the Vanatoos (active monitors) actually have a built-in High-pass that shunts everything below 120hz or 80hz (depending on DSP setting) to the subwoofer output.

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Yeah it would be VERY strange if that is how they implemented it…

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So…looks like it doesnt work on the aux which would be fine I guess if I use the aux with the sub and the passive speakers.
(the manual link didnt work for me lol.)

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Yeah, if the high-pass doesn’t work on the aux that’s perfectly fine since you low-pass the sub with its own control. Good to know (although shame about the manual no one can download)!
Edit: Looks like I mistyped in the post you quoted, the high pass BEING independent for the speaker outputs (instead of the aux) is what the design should be (which is what the rep confirmed for you).

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Yeah definitely the best way for this. I have told them about it so hopefully will get the working manual tomorrow.

As for subs, I found this but not sure if this is better for me.

It has a high pass filter in it, but I assume this is for active speakers and not passive?

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Looks like it also has low-pass and RCA inputs so it should work fine I’d probably cross those swans @ 60hz and adjust up or down from there to taste. It states output down to 30hz (which is better extension than the Malmo Sub6) but it doesn’t specify the F3/F10 (+/- 3db) points so who knows how far the actual output is. A ported 8" should dig much deeper than a 6" driver alone though.
The high-pass is probably for using an external DAC/Control with Presonus’ various powered monitors in the Eris line.

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My guess is that since Presonous is known as a monitor brand, this sub should be focusing on extension which should make it possible for it to dig that low but there wont be much gain (hoffmans iron law) which works fine since monitors want to be as flat as possible (afaik).

That Malmö sub is likely sacrificing extension for gain instead (since it is smaller, it cannot have both extension AND gain) which may work better for music… (guess it may be tighter bass).

Yeah in which case it wont work for the passive swan oasis 140 but it would work with the active swan os-10?

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All depends on the actual engineering and room interactions but I think you’re right on both counts.

Depends on your setup. If you’re running it to active speakers, then you’d run [pre/DAC] to the sub and then into the monitors, using the sub for the high-pass and low-pass. If you’re running the separate [pre/DAC] and [amplifier], then you could run the [pre/DAC] to the sub for the high-pass (which is limited to 80hz and up) and low-pass, then run the RCA or BAL from the sub into your [amplifier] which then feeds just the high-passed signal to the passive speakers. If you’re running the Douk Audio A5 you posted, then you can just run the Aux to the sub (to blend with the sub’s low-pass) and use the A5’s high-pass to feed your passive speakers.
The Eris sub has a lot of functionality by the looks of it tbh, obviously check the manual/ask the company for complete specifics.

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With that eris sub I would skip the A5 and get the active speaker os-10.
Since I dont need an amp nor the high pass filter separately.
So either this setup

or this.

But yeah that eris sub really does have a lot of function and its also around 40% cheaper as well than the malmö sub.

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Cheaper on Thomann
You can take that saving off my next Rikubuds order :joy:

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or not lol. Same price as on amazon, and i rather have amazon support.

But this thing is…so cheap it seems a bit sus…unless that malmö is paying a premium for that small size…

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Don’t think you have to worry about Thomann support - they did about €1.4bil last year. Pro audio playground - their office was immense when I went there.

Since your not getting the A5 then you have extra spending money on the sub :metal:

Gearspace is the forum for pro music gear - you should find quite a few presonus sub8 comments on there I would imagine as it’s quite a popular first sub.

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True they are definitely a big company.

Thats if Im going the OS-10 route.

Will look into it, but ideally I want that 6 inch size…

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This line chap… This line… :joy:
image

I take your 6 inch and raise you 5 inch in the battle of minisubs

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Saw that actually but, that looks about the same as my M10 Plus woofer and in which case I could probably just use that one. (its also at half the power of my M10 Plus so I dunno…)

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I’ll be honest the spec looks absolutely shit - I can’t see a reason for it’s existence

But

with a <6 inch preference - I figured you a man built for comfort not speed :man_shrugging:
:joy:

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