Haha yeah doesnt seem any better than the included sub in 2.1 setups at that price range.
Need bigger than 5 inch since I would put the M10 Plus sub on top of it so having it be a bit bigger is needed.
Your vertically double subbing…?
This is interesting…
Do you know how much that is going to cost you in reinforced crystal isolation spikes to hold that weight… 
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If you do that, be sure to put something between them to prevent vibration of the smaller sub into the cabinet of the M10+ one (like rubber shelf matting or Sorbothane).
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It would be bigger than the m10+ sub (its a 5 inch woofer). If i went for the Malmö sub or that eris sub.
But yeah I would put something in between them for sure. Same plan for the satellite speakers since I would likely have the M10+ satellites on top of the other one.
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My bad on the size but yeah, the principle applies regardless (and if it isn’t a ground floor that the bottom sub sits on, you should also pad underneath that one as well).
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Although…is it needed if the sub has feets like these?
(pic for the Malmö sub 8, but the sub 6 should have the same feets.)
They should be rubber based? and act as dampers.
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Only real world testing will tell; the rubber footies may be enough to absorb the vibrations, they may not.
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Also found this HUGE list.
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@Sonofholhorse FINALLY. Got a download link and I uploaded it to my mega.
Edit: Didnt see any mentions on if the high pass filter applies to the AUX Or if you can use both the AUX AND the passive out at the same time…
EDit 2: PMd a guy with the A100 on ASR and he confirmed that the AUX out and passive speaker out works at the same time.
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I’d like to advise anyone with a passive system
You can use this DSP
Everything is easy and simple
JAB5, can be programmed with SigmaStudio. By buying two, you can create an 8 channel setup, depending on your specific needs.
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RIku-san, which vents should be covered with tape/ filters to achieve which effects? Single DD, BQEYZ Frost
(The sad face on my thumb is just to follow my cuticle. I like the Frost)
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Bass boost with more damping.
The other 2 should reduce bass with more damping. But im not too sure about these 2.
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Thanks! I’ll give it a go. I think that’s the side of the IEM that my EN1000 has had a damper on, for years now. The goal, which I think it achieved, was to add a little sub-bass in.
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That inner vent (as I call it) closest to the nozzle increases the bass because that vent sits in front of the driver, it basically makes your seal worse and you know how bad seal = worse bass.
The downside is that it usually also increases pressure a lot. If you arent sensitive then you are lucky otherwise you may not be able to stand it.
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I just tried with basic magic tape / scotch tape to see what the maximum difference would be with no air passing at all, and that didn’t pose any pressure issue so I think I’ll be ok experimenting with dampeners now 
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Since this has those 2 other vents its likely you wont feel much of an increase compared to if they werent there. Although if you block ALL of them, then you should feel a significant difference…unless they are fake vents.
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Damnn, fake vents on IEMs…i hope that isnt the case, cuz I mean what would be the point?
But if that is the case then its a sick disease spread from cars all the way to IEMs
Fake vents would be for cosmetic purposes and/or marketing, like “open back” iem when it is not.
It has happened before.
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