Schiit Bifrost 2

Has anyone noticed an appreciable difference using a hatted pi vs the unison USB implementation? Buying a pi 4 vs a pi 4 with allo digione for spdif input are factoring in to my purchase decision cost wise.

I run my BF2 USB from a Pi4, I haven’t tried it from the pi2AES which I use on my Lampizator.

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Any chance you could do a quick A/B please?

I need to move the Pi I use with the Lamp, I can do it on the weekend, but my expectation is it won’t be night and day.

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Thank you!

My 2.5 month old BF2 stopped working today. It no longer powers on. Schiit wants me to pay shipping to have it repaired. Anyone else have experience with BF2 failures and repair process? Is it typical to pay shipping to have something this new repaired? My previous experiences with equipment failure have been fairly positive and did not cost me anything.

Thanks.

Well that’s pretty unfortunate. It’s somewhat common to have to pay shipping to the manufacturer, but you won’t pay anything to actually get it fixed and the manufacture will cover return (this is just in general since I haven’t had to deal with schiit when it comes to rma yet)

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Had a similar issue. My bf2 stopped outputting sound and vibrated. Had to pay shipping there to get it fixed. Wasn’t impressed but did get a working unit back… Does sound great when it works.

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Apologies if this is a stupid question…my BF2’s power cord is a REALLY tight fit in the the power socket. At first I thought I had pushed it in as far as it would go but no. An excited 30lb dog ran almost full speed into my desk and the BF2 powered off; power cord fell out. This time I realized I had a whole 'nother half-cm to push it in at least. Just something to check.

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I had a similar (no animals involved) experience with my new Asgard 3. The power was so tight that I thought it was connected but wasn’t. I did not notice until after I was rearranging my desktop and when I went to power the A3 on, and it didn’t. After a minute of WTF’s on a 4 hour new piece of gear I checked the back and yep… Really had to force it in there.

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That sucks! I have had really good luck recently, sort of.

  1. DT880’s ent after two months and I bought them from Thomann in Europe. I am in Canada. They paid the return shipping! Which is probably as much as they made in profit on the sale. And they will be shipping back the repaired/replaced unit. That IS service.

  2. Bought Koss Electroststaic system from Drop about a year ago. Had a problem this summer. I contacted them and they did a replacement. A month or two ago I noticed some hum in the headphones when no music is playing. Spoke to Drop and asked if I should just deal with Koss now as it was at/about the one year mark. Got a reply two days later offering a full refund and paying to ship my package back.

Two cases of wonderful service with international shipping. Very happy with both companies.

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Thanks for all the great replies. I double and triple checked the power connection. Mine is snug but not tight. Tried known good cables and outlets. I’ll be shipping it back this weekend. I really like the BF2 and plan on continuing to use it with my Liquid Platinum and BHC when it returns. One positive from this BF2 failure is I no longer think I have too many DACs. Now I need spares.

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:rofl: Truth!

That’s a hell of a good trio :+1:

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Well, schiit…

???    

I may have succumbed to temptation.

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Welcome to the deep end, friend :slight_smile:

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I have had my first “noob” experience with the Bifrost 2. I’m sharing A) so you can all have a little chuckle at my expense, and B) The off chance there is another new owner who has a the same experience and also did not RTFM, and more importantly - the FAQ…

I was like what’s going on? Why is there a relay clicking when I switch from for example, YouTube to Spotify or, even inside of Foobar when selecting a different album or just tracks with different sampling rates. I thought it was maybe because I have both Unison USB and Optical connected so that I can A/B between, nope still does it even with USB disconnected (I recalled reading that the USB only played when a source was detected so assumed maybe that the Bifrost was “hunting” inputs to see who was live or not) OK - now I’m weirded out a bit ( I wont go into how I totally broke the chain down to its most basic needed connections bypassing all switchers, rebooting the PC, power cycling all gear etc etc.)

Finally I was getting ready to post a question here but remembered Google can be a friend and damnit if Google girl did not land me on the Bifrost 2 Manual and FAQ where it is stating

"Hey, this thing clicks between songs/between
inputs/etc! Yes, it does.

Care to explain why, smartass?
Sure. That’s the muting relay engaging when
there’s no input. Many computer…"

The moral of the story and reason for this mini novel is… RTFM noob!

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I always thought it was changing bit rates since it up samples. I didn’t know it had a muting relay.

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I have heard this mentioned many times but yet I have never heard it “click” at all… Maybe I did not pay attention to it or maybe mine does not do that… Some people state that there BF2 runs warm whereas mine is room temp and it has been on now for months… I guess when I get home tonight I will have to try and listen for the sound… If it does “click” then the next question is how loud does it click? maybe my ears just don’t pick it up…