So this wasn’t from today, more like a few days ago, but it’s some of the parts for the amp I’m making, The La Figaro Transformer casings are just there to cover the transformers, the actual transformers aren’t recycled from that amp. The transformers are custom made for 200VA on the High-Power section to run some 6528 tubes if I wanted. Certain Upgrades such as custom made output transformers can be easily added later for a 600/8 Ohm reflection if the impedance isn’t lowered enough from using 6528, or even the more expensive albeit less taxing and less transconductive (idk how to phrase it in this term) 5998s.
Oh also since it’ll be using a tube shunt regulator and a tube driver both equivalent to 6SN7s, the transformer can ALSO handle worse case scenario heaters of 1 Amp per tube (CV181 tubes). The total would be 7 amps per side of the L/R of the transformer, totaling 14 amps max with both transformers using the hardiest tubes. True I wouldn’t use a 1 Amp heater driver for a shunt regulator, but the option still stands just to have more options.The Low-Power Section can’t handle as much but isn’t necessary honestly due to transconductance not being a factor for the Low-Power and more just to change the tone of the amp, although that transformer can be changed out at any time as well, I’m working to making the amp as relatively modular as possible for quick repairs as well as upgrades/side-grades/further mods.
These are La Figaro Transformers (just some fun info, weird that they’re just rated for 80 Watts though, I remember the DV 337 being capable of running 6528s so it’s odd that the 339 are downsized)
The new eartips came in! Very firm, but as the thermal-plastic foam hasn’t really had too much time to warm up, it’s understandable. Also just a new kinda tip I may just need to spend a little time getting used to.
Next, yes, it came coiled like that, the 10’ USB A to USB B cable… Would be great if I wasn’t now waiting on xDuoo and APOS to see what solutions they will offer since I can’t get USB in on my TA-10 to work for the fucking life of me.
And finally, my new interconnects from HAC by @brux: a 1’ 4-pin XLR in charcoal gray (sadly will have to wait for full balanced until I can get the TA-10 situation fixed) and 3" right angled 3.5mm TRS also in charcoal gray.
One is for 1/4 and the other for XLR. I noticed if i dont turn the volume up on my amp my headphones dont reach their full potential. But its a little loud. So i thought maybe i could turn up the volume there and turn it down on these babies.
What?
You turn volume Up from the amp and them headphones reach full potential.
Then you turn volume Down with passive filter/control… so headphones lose full potential?
i just… don’t get it… Confused.
It’s part of the mystique of Ant. He wants warm and cold headphones at the same time; he wants dark and bright headphones at the same time; now he wants high volume and low volume at the same time.
Ok this is how it works. pay attention im not explaining it again. This volume control goes between the amp and the headphone. So you turn the volume up on the amp. now you have a good strong signal going to the headphones. full potential. then you use the volume control to turn the volume down to a more tolerable level.
i think i know what you mean. the upped volume on the amp is the base volume for u. then u tune down the volume on a smaller scale for better control over exact volume steps right?
I think he wants to run the amp at ideal volume on the performance curve and use something else to limit the volume from there? (Idk if you are going for that or not, or if you just want more finite control as Jose says)
Somthing like that yeah, i’m not sure how well it will work. Also i want to use it when i got 2 headphones pluged into a splitter into my amp. I would control the volume on a low ohm pair of headphones so i dont blow them out when i switch to a high ohm pair. recently i was ABing the Sennhieser 58x and the 600ohm beyerdynamic dt880. that way i can run it at a higher volume.
If you do that at the same time you will stress the amp and change the sound of both headphones by reducing output of the amp and having different loads connected at once, to ideally do that comparison you would want to have two of the same amps in order to not change the sound of the headphones
Im gonna do a review on the Senn 58x, dt880, he4xx, meze noir (at its new cheaper price) and the 1more triple driver. then do a comparison review of all 5. a sort of cheap headphone stand off
By splitter do you mean switcher where you flip a switch and it changes to the desired headphone, or like something that splits the signal and you can listen to both at the same time? Just to double check if I wasn’t missing something
