What did you buy today? (Part 1)

Kinda off topic, but any idea where to get a aftermarket metal volume knob? lol hate the kitchen stove look.

Dang, 30 years, I started a few months ago after getting bored and reading a book on the electronics in a plane and how to build them. I was like “Huh I can do that”.

And then I disassembled my DV 8 times, got shocked 5 times, and burnt 3 times, but after many instances of near death, I managed to make my DV dead quiet, and decided after that to work on other amps.

Helped a Friend build a Crack and I’m building my own amp when the cases arrives, used PSUDII and using other amp internals as my muses to complete this one. I’m more on the practical side, so I prefer to test the components physically, although the math in the planning is obviously important in this case.

Still tho 30 years, god I wish I had that much experience, the things I could do.

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Partsconnexion

Idk, they have metal Volume Knobs there, check the hole diameter tho, may not fit the pot.

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Oh yeah forgot to ask, do you recommend Cardas Solder then? I use lead since it takes me less time on PCBs, but does the Cardas Solder have any benefits from your experience? Also where do you get your Solder from?

Edit: Saw the Cardas Solder, might buy a roll when I’m done with the one I’m using, besides I can buy 1/4 lb rolls which helps with mobility since I usually wear the roll around my finger to hold it while I solder. Idk looking at the one on Amazon and the price isn’t too bad honestly.

Oh also, how do you clean your iron, I actually found using 99% (The ones they sell in gallons, they have 91% and that might work too) Isopropyl and a paper towel, you set the iron to 450 Degrees C to evaporate it quick while you’re wiping it (The alcohol prevents the paper from burning and burning you, funny since I would have thought 99% would combust), turn it off, then cool it in flux, prevents the iron from rusting, and tends to come out clean (well with a yellowish color) and doesn’t rust afterwards. Turn it back on and the flux evaporates leaving you with a clean tip next time you solder.

Do non audio purchases count here?

We have a Leopard Gecko :slight_smile:

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That’s cute! :smiley:

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Very cool!

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they taste great once they’ve grown and gotten a bit meatier too!

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nice been wanting alizard for a while myself/ but instead I might aim for a snake myself. easier animals to take care of

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I would love to get a bearded dragon, myself. :slight_smile:

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I held one today at the reptile shop. He was very chill.

Also have 4 tortoises too! Have had for years

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they prefer to be warm. tell the shop to up the temperature. :wink:

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oh now that’s nifty! 4 tortoise? how big are they now? where do you live?

Cardas solder is leaded, I personally don’t like unleaded solder, it’s more difficult to deal with.
It’s a mix of Tin, Lead, Copper and Silver I believe, the silver content is tiny, so I doubt it has any real impact. I use it on Audio stuff because for the amounts I use the cost is negligible compared to the other components… So why not…
It is eutectic, which just means the meting point of the combination of elements is lower than any other combination of the same elements.

Honestly if I didn’t have it on hand I wouldn’t cry about it, and I’d just use standard rosin core 60/40.

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Mmmm, MoAr TUBEZZZZ…

![image|375x500]

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Huh, yeah I kinda guessed that, still the lower melting point is a pretty good benefit if you don’t want to damage a component due to heat (I’m pretty careful though, but still a benefit).

Also yeah, now I don’t use too much solder since Point to Point I tend to do mechanical connections first that I can’t pull off without solder, make sure they’re sturdy on they’re own, then solder that to simply increase conductivity as well as reliability.

God I remember when I first started modding my DV, have no idea how I didn’t burn the house down, god I was so dumb back then.

I essentially though all wire was the same, so I bought home depot copper rolls (18 gauge) and tried soldering with that. The Miracle there is that the thing turned on and worked weirdly enough, although just touching it essentially made the connections loose. Oh and I used SO MUCH SOLDER, like, idk, I was starting off though but god I was so under prepared. Oh also after just touching a bit, the grounding finally got lose and got one hell of a shock, DC thankfully, I think AC tends to be more lethal since it can cause heart palpitations.

Lesson there is that reading a book may be great as a supplement, but sometimes practice teaches you lessons in what not to do, especially when it comes with a shock factor, literally.

By the 8th time tho I learned my multiple, painful lessons, and invested in Remington Industries wire (pretty good for the price) as well as learned a few more soldering tricks and point to point tricks, finally made my DV capable of being quiet even with some IEMS (IMR for example). Also it passed my patented Shake Test, essentially I pick it up, shake it, if I hear nothing lose inside, then I did good (Also check things with a Multi-meter, but I didn’t do that until attempt 4 or 5 since I didn’t have the cash at that point for one).

Also I bought the Remington Wire after attempt 3, like it didn’t take me 7 times before the 8th to realize Home Depot wire wasn’t going to cut it.

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Also 5670W, that tube designation sounds familiar, what amp is it for?