No, it was a British site; can’t remember the name, but a major site.
Oh thank god, I was about to go hide under the bed covers ;-;. Didn’t want to meet the person who could have bought it and missed the chance because I bought it first. Mostly Feel bad at that point.
Hehe, I know the feeling.
I am good with either the Phonitor Xe or 2, but due to the price I am okay with not getting it asap.
Well from what I understand, both are balanced, but the 2 has the balanced on the Back, while the X/XE have it on the front too, and come with a DAC, albeit less Analouge Amp Features like the 2.
The Dac is optional (you have to pay for it) but apparently not needed. The amp is the star.
Yeah that’s why I bought a Phonitor 2, it’s just the magic of the amp, since I already have a D1, and it’s a pretty good DAC ngl.
Bottlehead Crack with Speedball! Lets see how this goes!
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Niceee, curious to see what you think of them with the 800s👍
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Curious how it’ll sound with the Verite as well. Now i have a darkvoice to sell haha.
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Dope, are you new to DIY amps or have you built other ones before?
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No, I’ve never build an amp before. I can solder some and I’ve built plenty of PCs but I’ll have to bitch out on this one and have someone build it. I just dont have the time i used to have. Wont have it for a bit anyways with being out of the country for a couple weeks.
Ok so I imagine you downloaded the Manual when you bought the crack, so remember the Right Hand rule, and not to use Plumbing Solder, use Electrical Solder. Oh and this is Iron Soldering, not Hot Air Soldering. My recommendation, use 40/60 Solder, flows better, especially on the PCBs for the C4S and Speedball. I use non-lead for the point to point stuff, but lead solder is WAY easier for the PCBs, and needs less heat to flow, so it’s less likely you damage one of the transistors that way.
Oh also, solder everything first, then put the heat sinks, makes it faster to solder the Speedball Transistors, and less likely to damage.
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What are these?
Thank you! I appreciate your info 
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kos Ur 10i
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I agree, though I usually use Cardas Eutectic solder which has a small amount of silver in to for audio gear.
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I mean when you get your Crack, if you get lost I could help you out, I helped out a friend build theirs a few months back, true I started out modding my DV, which is WAY harder than the Crack due to size constraints, the Crack just has so many more options since it’s so deep and the plate contains the entire circuit, not the actual casing.
Stock Crack is great, Speedball makes it better, but the REAL benefit, is the size and ability to fit so many mods inside.
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Yeah I use Silver laced Solder for point to point, but it’s more difficult to flow on the smaller contacts of a PCB. Besides I think it’s 2-4%. Idk if Cardas has more silver tho.
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No they are all much the same.
I use it because I have it, I find it flows fine, but I have a good iron and I’ve been soldering for 30 years, so I’m probably not a good judge.
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