Making some more RCA cables. I used the blue Canare L-4E6S starquad cable this time.
These cheap AliExpress connectors turned out to be exceptionally good for the price. They’ve got a solid build and come with grommets for small diameter cable. The budget Rean’s (bottom picture) don’t come with any grommets and cost twice as much. But they arguably have the better clamp style. The AliExpress one has the same kind of clamp Monoprice’s cheap Coax RCAs use.
And I also recently finished my HE-6se cable. I nearly lost my sanity doing those two 4-wire braids lol. Total cost was about $25.
If your buying the same 3.5mm Rean connectors I used for another HE-6se, make sure they’re the current rev which has the extended jack. Though I imagine there’s hardly any old ones floating around considering how popular these are for DIY cables.
The splitter I used worked great except that it has has a slot instead of two separate wire holes. I used heat shrink to ensure it never slides down the cable.
Those cheap rean connectors are awesome. I’ve used them in a car audio system and even with my crappy soldering skills they have held up really really well.
Ok so silly project. Had a Burson v6 Vivid sitting collecting dust and decided to put it into a douk u3 amplifier ($35-40) and holy fuckballs. Turned this thing into a bass cannon amp. It’s rated at ~1.3w@32ohm (class A though!) and it drives like it. Clarity and bass authority shot up so hard it blew my mind.
Barely fit and took lots of shaping on the little flex cable and had to bend some stuff slightly
Just realized I forgot to post this here
I sorted of cheated with this one. I bought a extra long version of this cable from XinHS and just told him to not add any connectors. He can add Sennheiser connectors for you. But I didn’t like the style he had available. I also had him install a different Y-split since I hate the carbon inlay style stuff and this one looked nice it the photos; the build for it turned out to be kinda cheap, so I don’t recommend it.
The cable ended up costing $35, which seems a bit high considering the lack of connectors. But then again, I think they’re braiding this style by hand. The only thing I need to do is find some good heat shrink for the connectors which I’ll probably borrow from work. Total cost for this cable came out to about $50.
This particular cable ended up being difficult to work with due to its weird coaxial design. It has an outer layer of of regular copper and an inner layer of silver plated copper. The inner layer has its own insulation layer that needs to be carefully stripped off.
Made this cable for the HD600. I’m quite happy with how this one turned out. The Y-split is basically just a cylinder with a straight hole—so getting the perfect amount of heatshrink to keep it in place was a pain.