One day I will buy such amazing source gear.
Sorry to hear that it didnāt work for you. I have avoided analog stuff on my personal gear for a while. I am old enough that I predate digital, and I actually won my first CD player on a radio station contest in my early 20s.
I opted for that model because it works on Windows, Apple, and Linux. I havenāt confirmed it on Apple, yet, but I have used it on the other two. I have it hooked into a hub on my desk that is USB-C to the laptop I am using, and I switch depending on work vs. personal.
Last night I was laying in bed listening to Jamiroquai, Daft Punk, Justice and Kavinskyā¦
The detail retrieval on the Timeless is amazing 
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Heres a cheaper and faster to operate option, bind the volume to mouse buttons if you have a programable mouse, im using scroll whell left and right clicks on a Logitech g502 for that purpose. If you dont have it, that $30 would buy you that exact mouse if youre in usa, which is a better investment imo as that crapload of buttons sure do come in handy. Though that knob looks nice, ill give it that.
Or there is a program for volume control for windows that runs in systray with which you can set a keyboard hotkey and scroll with the wheel for volume up/down.
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For that matter I could consistently use the volume control on the current keyboard ( I own three keyboards and change them out depending on my mood ), and not buy anything, but sometimes I just want a volume knob.
My standard keyboark is the GMMK, which uses
fn + /
fn + .
I almost refuse to use any Logitech hardware anymore, their current stuff is almost always tied to Windows only software and device drivers. I write software for a living, and use Linux and Apple hardware for some projects. A mouse that half the buttons only works correctly 1/3 of the time would by very annoying.
That is why a standard USB device that works on everything does make sense.
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Yup, i can see the alure of spinning a knob, more authentic 
.
Using my g502 on linux and no problems, though ofcourse no way to have unlimited profiles with auto switching per app as on windows, just the 3 onboard profiles that i need to switch manually.
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I have to say out of all my IEMās (apart from low impedance campfire sets) planarās are the most picky when it comes to source ie they scale well given the chance 
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Yay, I didnāt know they still had anything that stored the programming internally, that is good to hear. The hero sensor sounds great, now if Logitech just knew how to make or source better switches I might consider it.
The Anywhere MX was my mouse at work and home, for almost 4 years, and the switches got so bad, they would die in less than 5 months. One replacement took so long, that I had moved on to the Glorious O by the time it arrived, and I never opened the MX when it showed up.
I have never bought another Logitech product. At that time all their software to program the buttons was not internally stored on the mouse, but was a Windows config thing, so it never worked on Apple, which was my other primary platform at the time. So I just never used the feature.
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I read a lot of complaints about the switches on logitech mice, though not a real problem for me as i do my own soldering. Did replace the switches on mine few months ago, but it lasted about 4 years or so before developing problems. Not too big on gaming so that might have helped, but then it might not have any role, as claim is double clicking is not mechanical, but electrical related as theyre using switches with wrong current rating in their mice. Switch to something with correct rating like kailh or japanese omrons(cant recall the exact model from top of my mind), and shouldnt be a problem for a long time after that. What i did when they started failing.
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Iāve been running the Timeless for 35 hours. It makes sense to continue this burn-in process ?
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That is enough in my experience
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Depending who you ask.
Since brain want to play tricks on us, i decided to play a trick on it regarding the timeless burn in. Oh how the tables have turned .
I did hear harshness with them at certain tracks, and to minimize the chances of just getting used to the sound, i switched to tips that would reduce the harshness and used them exclusively with those.
After 300-400 hours on my set i switched back to the tips that i could hear the harshness with, and it was still there and pretty much the same as long as i can remember, but dont forget that sometimes memory can be a feeble thing .
If there was any change in sounding it would be small and not that significant, and in my case i was just focusing on that 2-3kHz peak.
There are some claims that it changes all the way to becomming much better, but one of the pepople that claimed that, i followed his comments and he was trying out maybe 10 different tips in the process so i dont fully trust that judgement, refer to my comment memory being a feeble thing.
Also some claims that i read that it solved channel imbalanceā¦ Now this i have very hard time subscribing to, as to hear the imbalance in the first place the difference should be around 2db or more imo, which on sets measured it was higher, measuered mine to have up to 5-6db on certain frequencies out of the box.
That being said, for burn in to solve channel imbalance, FR would need to shift for that ammount of db, and as far as im aware up to now noone was able to measure any FR changes after whatever burn in period.
Mind you, i do have bias against burn in in general, but thats because ive done it and havent heard any discernible change after it that would convince me otherwise. Dont have experience with as many iems as some people here do so that should be also taken into account.
Maybe ill become a convert when i actually hear it and recognize it without any doubt .
In the end, if you think that burn in makes your set sound better, thats what counts, no matter what other people think, me included.
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Have you had the chance to compare it to a Qudelix?
So far I only use my Timeless on one single amp. Except my desktop gear I own a FiiO Btr3k and a few USB-C DACs. All of them sound different. I tested this with other IEMs I already own. Even single DD IEMs sound different on different DAC+Amp combinations.
I strongly recommend to do some tip rollingā¦ I went back and forth trying the tips included and I ended back with the dark blue ones (the biggest of the 3, is the one that has the yellow inner bore, the other 2 are smaller but also shorter and that changes the sound)
In my case the other tips included didnāt elevate the bass but added some slam (minor) and rumble. It may be āfunā but you also lose some separation and detail.
@John_W_Clark I think Iām talking about the ones you also liked.
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Yep I agreeā¦
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I had some imbalance and I thought it went away and happily posted here but no itās partially ears getting used to the imbalance and partially me inserting the louder side into the ear badly to trim the loudness(actually works quite well but doesnāt actually fix anything in the long run). Sadly imbalance canāt be solved by burn in sorry for that knee jerk post to anyone that was read that. Raised the issue with seller but itās not going great.
As for tip rolling I find the AET 07 L(clear with yellow bore) gives some extra airyness but also can cause treble to get harsh. I like my CP100 on it but they slip off occasionally.
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Aaah no worries, weāve all been there at some point 
Would be curious to know how things turn out in the end with the seller for you, keep us posted.
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That 2khz-3khz bump is part of the tuning, itās early pinna gain. Itās seen in many graphs. It cannot be burn in away, but maybe you can mitigate it by tip rolling. EQ will fix it.
I experienced some tips introduce 5k-7khz spikes due to different insertion depths, so tip rolling imo is important.
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