Bottlehead Crack

What glue did you use?

Wood glue would have given you a good half hour, at low temps longer.

Some older red bottle titebond. It wasnt fully dried but it was gummy enough to not want to squish out with pressure, or at least not without pressure that would of otherwise shifted everything else.

I was thinking of popping it apart and wiping it all off and starting again but the fear was parts of the glue would of dried enough too much to come off easy and that would be added thickness.

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FWIW it’s the one thing I wish I’d followed the instructions on when I built mine, I used a box clamp when I glued, and I wish I’d used the tape on the outside of the corners as described in the manual, some glue got on the outside of the box, and getting it off was a pain in the ass because the wood likes to absorb it.
Worst case they sell the box parts separately.

I’ve done this on 2 Cracks and it’s :+1:

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Ill be very honest. I thought the manual only covered the actual amp build and not the box. I kind of went forward but some tape could of helped keep things in place

@Hazi59 Did you ever try the Tung-Sol 7236 with the Brimar CV4003? Any idea on what might be the best pairing with the 7236?

The best pairing with the 7236 to my ears is a tube that is warmer and spacious, as the 7236 is aggressive and forward. Something basic liked a Ken Rad 12AU7 or a GE 5 Star 12AU7 would be a nice pairing.

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I’ve been listening to the 7236 for a bit and I see what you mean. For the GE tube, are you talking about the GE 5963 you mentioned in your review post?

the ge 5963 would work also…but I was actually referring to the GE 12AU7A. You can find them relatively cheap.

Cool thanks. You hadn’t mentioned that one in your other post so I thought it might be a typo. It looks like vacuumtubes.net has them for $20.
https://vacuumtubes.net/RES%20Audio%20pages/12au7.html

I’m guessing this is the “JAN black plate one”? Dale the site owner also recommended that one as great budget option. From his experience he’s found the RCA clear top to be the most liked for the Crack. Though I’ve been seeing very mixed reviews for that one.

I bought my 12AU7 from this guy. He posts the measurements he gets. Lets you pick what you want.

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I actually don’t care for the RCA clear top. It lacks bass impact and sounds way too solid-state like for my preferences.

Thanks, I’ll definitely check him out. I haven’t come across him before yet.

Yeah that seems to be a common complaint with that particular tube.

Small steps forward. I scraped off as much extra glue as i could and put in some finishing screws to help hold it as the glueing wasnt as tight as i prefer. Here is a pic using some Naptha to bring out the grain and spot rogue glue. The random light spots are glue.

Tomorrow ill be doing a final sanding before i bring it in for spraying.

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That’s actually pretty nice grain on that. They’re usually not as pronounced.

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Thats the naptha wipe down popping it out

Here are some more pics after i sanded away the last of the glue this afternoon.
Here you can see it 100% dry

Here is it after i wiped it down to clean the sawdust and dried a little. The grain always dries last. I hope that means the black will go into there the most and define it more.

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I went to finally download the crack manual and the speedball manual.

Both say ive hit my download limit. Which is funny since i have not downloaded them once.

I had the same thing happen to me. Just email Bottlehead.

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