Does it not make a difference if there’s no signal to amplify in the first place?
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It might assuming the short is happening when inserting the plug.
With no signal the voltage difference between the 3 pins ought to be lower, but that’s also true of turning the volume down to 0.
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Yep.
Turning down the volume achieves more (in theory).
I got the suspicion in the case of the Phonitor 2, the circuit layout is such that there is a very strong (120V strong?) bias between left/right and Gnd when the device is on.
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Yeah, I know it should be, but I think it makes sense to take double precautions. Generally, I do all 3. Power off in front, volume to zero, and mute the source. And I know with the RNHP, even following the proper steps, you have to WAIT at least 30 seconds to a minute… or you’ll end up getting voltage spikes from the amp when plugging into it after powering it on.
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I don’t know enough about circuit design to say for sure… but my thought was that the reason they did not include the typical protection circuits inline was to keep overall impedance/resistance at minimum throughout the circuit.
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Not including safety is one thing, dumping 160V into a headphone is another. At 160V, 20mA is allready past 3W (maximum for the T50RPs), and a bass hit can easily cause that.
Another thing to keep in mind:
When the powersupply is not well seperated, and god knows what the case of the device is referenced too, you could have grid reference on the headphone out, with nothing but one fuse between you and death.
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Oh I also had the playback paused too, my dad wanted to listen to Bohemian Rhapsody on it to see, so there wasn’t any music playing while I had it muted and with the Pot Down Too. I only put the music on after they were plugged in and unmuted, then let him put the pot to the level he wanted (About 1/7 of the way).
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Also yeah, I mean, Ik Floating Power supplies have their benefits, I think, but NOTHING had a reference to ground, not even the HP Out, idk if that’s normal in an Amp with a Floating Power Supply, but still (I think it was floating, if not, then idk, maybe I had to check something else there, but nothing was using ground).
Like you said, The XLRs for Example should have been grounded to the chassis, but idk, seems weird, idk if there was some other method of doing so that wouldn’t give direct continuity but I couldn’t get the multi-meter to read continuity to ground on either the RCAs or the XLRs. Idek anymore.
I think it’s worth taking precaution for sure. And what you have said makes perfect sense to me.
I would personally take the 160v reddit post with a slight pinch of salt. Seems a bit odd… but maybe it could be a potential issue. Not sure though. I will definitely say if I ever have any issues personally with the ‘e’.
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The connectors will be connected to the chassis, just by being panel mounted.
I assume there is some connection to case ground from the IEC connector, though it might go through a cap.
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Yeah there is one Grey Film Cap (The Rectangular looking ones) but idk, that one seems to be for the Power Supply, I didn’t see one for the inputs/output though. Maybe I missed it, or maybe it was something more discrete, idk.
Depends.
Neutrik and Cliff have panel mount connectors that need their ground elsewhere. There are legitimate reasons to not have any of the 3 pins in XLR connected to chassis, audio is not one of them.
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Ok so, I got a response, I’m sending it back tomorrow, Reverb will send it to SPL to see what failed, and hopefully they decide on a refund, idk, maybe get myself a nice Cayin I-HA 6, or maybe a RN-HP, idk, something that won’t blow up any more of my stuff.
Maybe a used iFi Pro iCan, idk, if anyone wants to recommend a good $1000 amp, I’m all ears.
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Look for a used gsx mk2 or get a gsx mini?
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Also, yeah that’d be a great way to collect some data, but hopefully your E won’t die either. They do sound quite great while they function.
I was looking at a GSX MkII but they’re a bit pricey atm, maybe a mini tho, any big differences power/sound wise?
I mean the mk2 is an upgrade in every way lol, but I think the mini is good too, but personally I would save up for a mk2. The violectric hpa v281 is a really really nice amp if you can find one, highly recommend
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A Pass Labs HPA-1 would also be pretty awesome too if you could find one
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Linnenberg Maestro is also nice, avoiding amps with built in dacs for now
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Hmm, the MkII seems tempting, may need to save for like, another year tho, The HPA-1 is also there, albeit a bit more expensive, idk, if I get a full refund I’ll be getting another 500 in a month and a half, so for 1700 (1200+500), idk, maybe I’ll save up and get the GS-X or the HPA-1, who knows.
After that I need another 1200 for the GSX, and I’ll have another 900ish if things go well in July, idk maybe by the end of the year I’ll have a GS-X.
Well there is a used HPA-1 for 2500, so maybe I’ll go with that, the internals look beefy enough, transistors are all full sized, and I think it works at a lower voltage, so idk.