the cmd-17 is the douk u2 pro with clock upgrade options i’m guessing that thing accomplishes the same thing and the cmd-17 with the crystek clocks is like $50 cheaper than that one but if the layout is better i could see it being better but as i said before it’s only going to be as effective as the DAC will allow so diminishing returns happen pretty quick with DDCs.
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Devices like that(converters) for me open the world of old school dacs, like border patrol and etc. , Interesting is it worth to get into the rabbit hole with dacs from early 2000, or better invest money for higher end modern dac, for example to go to 1000$+ range with dacs…
that’s more of a question for @M0N i would say. my DAC experience caps out around $1500 and is honestly not that thorough past around $1000 as i’ve only tried like 5 DACs between $1000-$1500 and that area from what i’ve seen has a lot of R2R DACs that I haven’t even touched.
Waiting for your feedback, and in better case - review:))
had the same though for $50ish might as well try it mine should be arriving Friday
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I think it’s closer to Flavor-Aid lol. Have you plugged it in yet? Also some DACs have L/R swapped in the i2s pinout but just swapping the cables to your amp solves it.
Yeah, I plugged it in last night, there’s definitely something different going on there.
I do have a couple questions for you though.
What driver are you using for it?
What firmware update did you run?
so just the standard xmos driver from Login | XMOS is what driver it takes to run i believe and i didn’t know there were different firmware versions so i’ll try to figure out which one i’m on and if you could link me to the different firmware maybe it’ll fix an issue i’m having with the cmd-17 not outputting atmos bitrate.
I thought I had seen you mention something about a firmware update when talking before. I haven’t seen anything online for one, that was why I was asking.
I thought maybe that was the case but I ended up just uninstalling my xmos drivers and reinstalling them and it worked. Wasn’t actually a firmware problem that was stopping it from working it was just the wrong xmos version I think
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So… I am on thinking about returning my Douk U2 pro. It seems that it has been having an issue of not working correctly. I know when it is working correctly cause the sound clarity and staging opens up real wide. Normally I have been able to fix this with a restart of my PC after I have unplug the unit but today it seems it isn’t doing much for me anymore except just passing the signal to the DAC. Which in this case comparing the USB connection to my PC and the I2s connection to the Douk now sound the same, which is how I know it is not working correctly anymore. Kinda frustrating as I really enjoyed what I was hearing when using the Douk.
Anyway… just wanted to share my experience just in case anyone else ends up having the same issue.
Note: I also have tried the optical and coax connections. Both produce the same sound as well… I have lost the magic 
Is there something specific that causes it?
Not really sure to be honest. I just know I have unplugged it multiple times now and restarted my pc and it still doesn’t seem to be working as it should. I just tried it on the E50 Dac that I have on another setup. Not working there as well. The only think I noticed is when switching to the USB connection and then back to the Douk is that the Douk will have a slight delay for a moment, like a hiccup when playing the music. But yea if I can figure out what this issue is then I will report back here. I don’t need to return it right away at this time I will keep messing with it for a bit. I have till the end of January with Amazon.
So I wonder if the problem is that the USB can be the power source. Maybe try plugging in the power first then the USB connection? And manually select it again in Windows
Yea I have tried that. Thanks for the suggestion. I will keep messing with it in the mean time and see what I can figure out.
It could well be that you have a defective unit. I think I would try a replacement.
Yeah they’re cheap so I would expect quality control issues, which sucks cause they’re so good when they work. I haven’t had any problems yet that I couldn’t solve so far but have definitely run into a couple quirks.
Is your windows quality set to max in the device properties?
Allow exclusive mode?
Yea I do have “Allow exclusive mode” enabled. I have the current power performance settings set to high.
@Pokrog
But looking at the USB setting here I am thinking of setting this to “disabled” for USB selective suspend setting value:
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