So, I’ve contacted my shop about the issue with D1SE and U2 Pro connectivity and they contacted manufacturer, their official response is that I2S is not strictly defined, so D1SE will be compatible with some devices and not compatible with others, because of different pins in their HDMIs. Beware, I guess. Now I’ll be asking any company about HDMI compatibility before I buy their stuff
Unfortunately there is truth in that there is no set agreed standard for I2S - though there are some devices that have switches you can set to change the pinout.
Maybe you tried these already I don’t know - just putting out there incase.
I am not familiar with either of those devices personally but I did look up the manual for the D1SE and pages 29-30 show different settings for various i2s options - I think these are in the menu ???
You should be able to set the D1SE to match the U2 Pro. From looking at Douk U2 Pro at their web site, it appears that the pinout they use for the U2 Pro is PS audio compatible. PS audio devices are common enough and you should be able to track down the pinout easily.
Here’s the pic I saw for the douk u2 pro. You would change the adjustable menu items on the D1SE to match (In theory).
Also, try a different HDMI cable and shorter is better. You don’t need to spend a hundred bux on a cable but don’t use a bargain basement either IMHO - as always YMMV
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So, here are the pin settings for D1SE - the first half of their inverted scheme looks the same, but it’s slightly different after that. Anyway, it doesn’t work no matter what settings I choose. I’ve asked my seller what is the better option, is it Singxer SU-6? He said that Topping U90 is prefferable, I guess that’s because it has 4 different hdmi pin settings, so it’s compatible with most gear
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Well, i also bought the Douk U2 Pro and it makes zero difference with my system. I have an SMSL M200 DAC and i hear no difference between using it with the Douk U2 Pro or directly over the USB Connection of the DAC.
The drivers are also kinda shady. There isnt any official download site for it, you have download them over a google drive link. Their ASIO driver doesnt allow you to change its sample rate tho, which is ridiculous.
You can download the official XMOS driver and then you are able to change the sample rate, but after like 1 hour of using it you will get a beeping sound, so its not usable.
I do appreciate the ability of the Douk U2 Pro to put out the signal to 2 devices over ASIO, so I wanted to keep it, but not being able to change the sample rate just wasnt acceptable. So I googled a bit and managed to find this driver, which works with it and allows you to change the sample rate.
did you get the cheapest or most expensive one? seems like people saying it makes a difference got the high end one
Hi, guys got my Douk U2 pro to use with my BF2 using coax.
I’m using windows driver at the moment HIFI DSD (Win 11 
). The XMOS driver doesn’t work for some reason. I’m using 24/192 as is the maximum I can set.
I’m hearing more clarity, more focus center imaging, and vocals (Better layering?). Also, it is hard to point out because it also reduces some midbass or upper bass (Which results in more clarity too).
EDIT: I’m doing it right? Any advice or suggestions?
If you open up device manager and find the hifi dsd and uninstall the driver then right click it again and update and it should work. Should play up to 24/384. The added clarity seemed to be just from better accuracy in my experience, but I also haven’t used it with a BF2.
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I installed the driver today (Took 6 restarts for some reason).
This is what I got now. The max is still 24/192khz.
I remember having a similar problem a long time ago and at some point I uninstalled all my audio drivers and when I reinstalled them a byproduct of the whole thing was that my U2 pro worked at full 24/384 but I’m not sure what part of that fixed it.
So just my two cents here… if you want to play files at 24/384 then I would suggest to not install that driver. The windows driver by default will let you use 24/384. You will just have to ignore that in the device manager suggesting you to install a driver. It will still work. If you are using something like foobar to play local files then you would just use it the driver and set it to WASPI mode.
But if you want to keep using the existing ASIO driver then you should be fine for streaming say from Amazon or Tidal. None of them go over 192khz.
Also as a side note, if you are using Tidal in exclusive mode, it will be using WASAPI mode anyway and never use that driver. Which is another reason to point out that you shouldn’t need to worry about using it.
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Decide to use WASAPI with foobar.
After a few days I can say that the douk u2 is an improvement over usb. Optical and coaxial are more “Cleaner” than the USB on the BF2. I have been using optical since I got the BF2 with my video game console.
If it matters, USB was used with a laptop. At the beginning I was using an old usb with the isolator (sounded warm) got a monoprice USB later (sounded cleaner).
Overall Improvement:
- Layering
- Mid clarity
- Tighter sound
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I’m thinking about trying one of these out. Are there any other similar devices from different brands that are worth considering as well?
Tons depending on how much you want to spend.
The price is one of the factors that makes me interested, it’s not really expensive compared to other things in the hobby! So I guess I wouldn’t want to spend more than the Douk, obviously less would be nice too.
I’m going to use it with the SMSL su-8s dac, has anyone tried with that dac before?
I’ve tried it with a linear power supply powering it and feeding coax in to I think the regular SU-8 and it was very noticeably better than USB. I know it sucks but a $40 power supply actually makes a worthwhile difference but in a pinch you could use something like a USB port on your monitor as the power source and it’s better than powering it through the data USB port or USB power from the noisy PC USB.
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I ran one with the SU8 while I didn’t notice a sound difference it did fix my USB noise issues YMMV
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Yeah strongly depends on the rest of your gear too for sure. IMO it should really have a LPS to make it worth the buy. Makes a pretty significant difference with not much extra money.
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Any recommendations?
I’m looking for the iFi SilentPower iPower2 or if its worth it the iFi iPower X
I only ever tried a LPS from AliExpress on it with an upgraded Telema transformer and it worked great, I think I paid like $35-$40
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