Yeah no thanks on that one, it’s like that time of Apple announcing the iPhone 7 with no headphone jack. Companies used to market the lack of headphone jack as a hit on Apple for their phones who still has that feature, but afterwards eventually they followed suit of removing the headphone jacks on the later phone models. (I am looking at you Samsung, you’re a fucking hypocrite.)
So yeah if the server version is the only subscription based model, it might affect the regular versions eventually and most of us will see it as a “Fuck you! give me money!” move from Microsoft.
That would be dumb if they decide to make it subscription based, they been making “free” stuff more available to the average person like how you can use a web based microsoft office suit. As much as google been fumbling the bag with rolling out their products to schools and such they still a huge threat to take the lower end computer market but i guess if you have a good chunk of market share you could just force a bunch of changes. They also haven’t at the moment targeted all the Mass Grave scripts that allow you to activate a bunch of products prob cause they don’t care about the niche market that enthusiasts make up.
Server versions I thought were already subscription based at least for Windows Server 2022. Also I find it funny when Microsoft does have a more free thing they kinda dominate the market more overtime compared to competition like with Teams and Visual Studio for coding. Nobody is even close when it comes to one IDE that is able to handle so many languages and tasks.
Guys I have a question just in case if this thread is still alive. I currently made a new build for my aunt for her office use, and I know it’s not optimal due to the newer hardware but, how can I boot up her Windows 7 OS with the newer motherboard, RAM and SSD that I got for her? Because I am planning to migrate her OS from her HDD to her SSD yet I cannot do that since I cannot recall the method on how you boot up the OS with the newer hardware that I installed for her new build.
There are still some important files in her old drive, including a program that is very important for her use and I cannot risk just wiping that drive entirely for I still want her to use it while having her original OS intact, then find a way to upgrade her Windows 7 OS to Windows 10 while maintaining her original files.
I know it’s a waste of effort and time, and it can be tough, but I just hope there is a way to do so.
Did you check to make sure that the hardware you chose is supported by windows 7? Depending on the parts it may only be supported by windows 10 or later. Anything current will require windows 10 or later due to there being no driver support under windows 7. You should be able to access the files if you install windows 10 or 11 on a separate boot disk, and then reconnect the old drive. Make sure you do not have the old drive connected while installing the new OS to reduce the chances of the install attempting to allocate space on that drive.
Before you attempt what I listed above, double check the model of motherboard and CPU to see which OS versions they are compatible with.
Edit: Don’t forget that Windows 7 support ended at the beginning of 2020, so any hardware that came out after that would defiantly not have support. Also, remember that Windows 10 support will end in 2025, so you might want to use windows 11.
could just try booting from the old drive and if it works use drive cloning to copy everything to the new drive, and make sure it worked, then can run windows upgrade later.
That was the plan earlier, but apparently it’s no luck. The rig I built for my aunt didn’t detect the OS that is installed in the original she was using on her old rig. Yeah it’s probably a compatibility issue with the hardware not being supported by Windows 7 anymore. Looks like I have to install the primary OS in her main SSD instead, then Idk, get the files from her old drive?
That would be the only way to do it in this case. It shouldn’t have any issue reading the NTFS format on the old drive to access the files. Just be sure to use the same user name an password under the new OS so the credentials are the same to access the files. It shouldn’t be a problem, but I have had issues in the past when they don’t match. In the case of the software on the old drive, it might work if you keep the old drive installed and launch it from there, but not guaranties. Just make sure the old drive is not connected while installing the OS on the SSD to prevent any issues from popping up. Reconnect it after you get the new OS up and running.
Yeah I know, but right now I am still hesitant of installing it on my rig that’s all. And if I am going to install Windows 11, might as well get an entirely new SSD for that to happen and as well as do some tweaking for I am not really a fan of the usual configuration that Microsoft tends to with their OS.
I recently upgraded my GPU and SSD, so I decided to do a clean install of windows 11 for my own rig due to my older windows 10 install not having the right file system format to upgrade to windows 11. In the case of a clean install it is better to go with the OS that will have the longest support, unless use case prevents that from being possible. It is all up to you as you are the one who will be her tech support for this system.
I have built many systems for friends and family. Trust me, it is better to plan things out ahead that will prevent you from having to fix a whole lot of issues later. This is also why I don’t build them systems with liquid cooling, because I know that they won’t look for the signs of a failed pump or leaking tubing. They will just call you when the system fails to turn on.
Alright that’s true, I will let you guys know what I will be doing. It seems I am more inclined to give her an entirely new OS for her to use, while still having her old drive in her new rig so that she can just get it from there.
Guys, any good recommendations for a 4th gen m.2 SSD? I know there are like Gen 5 SSDs that are out now, but unfortunately I don’t think my motherboard supports 5th gen SSDs so I have to settle with the 4th gen. Leaning towards the 980 Pro, though it would be good to know some alternatives as well just in case.
I’ve got a Samsung 980 Pro and it delivers on performance. Also have one by T-Force and it performs terrific and was much more affordable (both 2TB). Fast storage hit a wall with the 550MB/Sec SSD drives as far as I’m concerned. When I load a game it’s logging in…checking for updates…finding server…verifying anti-cheat… It’s not storage slowing load times anymore. I’d just get the largest one you can afford instead of the fastest. The one sure thing is you’re going to run out of space eventually. 10 percent slower you won’t even perceive.
I currently got a wd black 850x. Basically is a little bit faster 980 pro so if they are the same price you could go for the wd but as Dunring said the SSD speeds are basically the same for the average user. Make sure they have DRAM and you then have trust in the RMA and warranty service of the company. Weird thing if you do get a targeted Ad on Newegg’s tiktok account technically you might be able to grab a solidigm for like really cheap if you have the app.
At least in the US there is a deal with the Samsung 990 Pro 2tb for $100 though make sure to update the firmware ASAP
Alternative to that is like the SK Hynix platinum p41, Solidigm P44 pro, Sabrent rocket and mentioned WD 850x. Expect to pay around $10 to $20 more than cheaper ones when on sale
Lowerish tier that you prob not even feel a difference would like be the team group,crucial P5, silicon power XS70
I already did some tweakings on the BIOS when it comes to the Curve Optimizer settings and with the offset of it to -30. I can safely that this CPU has won the silicon lottery for it is still stable after setting it that way, and of course the ideal temps are much lower compared to back then. Back then when there’s no air conditioner involved only factoring in the ambient temperature that I have in my room, at idle it runs at 60C up to 70C which is to me is a bit worying, and I know this CPU can withstand that temperature, but I want my processor to last a bit longer. So after doing the settings that I needed to change it went from 60-70C now to 40-50C ish, making it much cooler while maintaining good perfomance and stability overall.
Hey guys, I recently upgraded my aunt’s PC right? This is from her old HDD where her Windows 7 32 Bit OS installed. This is the program that she uses most of the time and I’d assume it’s going to run just fine since you know Windows still has that compatibility and everything. This is what shows up when I try to run it and I think I am missing something that prevents this program to run, for this is the only program that she uses most of the time.
Also I got a question that does not relate to this, should I bump up my PSU as well? from 750W to 850W at least? for at some point I am going to change my PC’s architecture and I think having a PSU with higher wattage can add more leeway and access for more upgrades.
Maybe inspect each .exe and .dll of that program with https://dependencywalker.com to see what other DLLs they depend on and are not finding on your system.
As for the PSU, oh boy, the upgraditis! I’ve had a 500W PSU for over a decade, and I actually play video games sometimes. The only reason it’s been causing random resets lately I think is due to old capacitors, not low power. I highly highly doubt your aunt needs more than 750W. Just make sure it’s not a decade-old supply, maybe take it to a repair shop for a health checkup and you might not need to buy a new one.
I’ve had a 500W PSU for over a decade, and I actually play video games sometimes. The only reason it’s been causing random resets lately I think is due to old capacitors, not low power. I highly highly doubt your aunt needs more than 750W. Just make sure it’s not a decade-old supply, maybe take it to a repair shop for a health checkup and you might not need to buy a new one.