How hot are you talking?
it was throttling at least 60c and it reaches to at least 70c. But I guess given it’s a Ryzen 7 it’s pretty much normal for that CPU. and I know ambient temps plays a factor as well but I prefer my CPU not going too hot.
If it’s only getting into the 70s then that’s perfectly fine. As long as you aren’t losing clock speed I wouldn’t worry. An Assassin III should be more than adequate.
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Yeah, it’s kind of weird when it gets like that while idle though. I am more used to the usual idle temps of 30c up to 50c
I went from the 3700x to the 5800x3d as well, and yes it does run hotter. The reason is that the 3D cache is stacked on top of the CCD. That makes it a chip sandwich, and the heat has to travel through the top chip to the IHS, and finally to your cooler. I have cooled my 5800x3d with both a 280mm rad and a deepcool AK620 (my AIO was starting to go), and it ran hot on both. Just remember that all core boost is not the same as single core boost, so if you are running a synthetic benchmarking tool it will touch 80 to 90c on air when all cores are maxed (depending on cooler). It still ran at its max all core boost in that test though.
Mine is idling at 30 to 55c right now, so the only thing I can suggest is to try reseating your cooler, maybe it is not making full contact or there is not enough thermal paste to fill in the gaps between the IHS and the cold plate of your cooler. I have had to reapply thermal paste in the past due to differences in IHS curvature. The IHS is not 100% flat/leveled, so that is why extreme overclockers use lapping tools to smooth it out. So making sure you have the right thermal paste application matters. I hope this helps.
Edit: For context, I limit my cooler fans to stay below 70%, and they normally run below 50% on average. So if you are letting your cooler fans run auto, and you are still hitting higher temps at idle, then it is most likely the issue I listed above.
I did reseat my cooler a couple of times after a lot things of happened to my rig not working after installing the 5800X3D. Luckily those issues were resolved and I don’t think I wanna reseat my cooler after all of that. Might do it during the weekends when I have the time and in the mood. Also when it comes to its current temps now, I did some tweaking in the BIOS like setting up the Curve Optimization, like making all cores’ value set to -30. So far my CPU is still performing well and now with lower temps which is a relief.
I do have to reseat my cooler though, for right now it looks like it’s slightly sagging even though the motherboard is not flexing and the screws on the cooler are tightly screwed. Of it being slightly sag looking mildly infuriates me.
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Hey guys earlier I gave TronScript a try earlier on my PC to see what it is all about. You know, that one from Chris Titus? Who somehow made my Windows 10 much better due to his videos, not sure if it’s the same as me. With that aside, I am glad I give it a try. Next time when someone needs a lot of fixing on his PC when it comes to it running poorly, I will surely give this one a use again.
I know some of you have been aware about this but it’s better late than never.
broke some things on my win11 (nothing major that I’ve noticed just convenience things like calendar not working since I did it lol) reduced my idle ram usage by like 3-4GB though lol
I have been thinking about at some point to upgrading to Windows 11, and I am just wondering if that version of that OS is now mature enough for me to justified the upgrade from Windows 10? Because at some point the support for Windows 10 will like end after like a couple of years or something and I am still skeptical about the things on what have been said about Windows 11.
Right now though, my overall rig is doing great right now and Windows 11 probably doesn’t have features that will sway me enough to immediately switch to it for I got what I need from my Windows 10 OS.
Also if the so called rumor of Windows 12 becoming a subscription based OS becoming a reality, screw it I am not gonna use Windows anymore for that will be the moment that I want to switch to Linux, for I am just not an overall fan of subscription based models for I want to OWN that item that I bought. Sadly nowadays, it’s getting hard to be that case it seems.
what I heard was the server version would be the subscription version, I’ll switch to Linux before buying a new windows license for $100+
Yeah no thanks on that one, it’s like that time of Apple announcing the iPhone 7 with no headphone jack. Companies used to market the lack of headphone jack as a hit on Apple for their phones who still has that feature, but afterwards eventually they followed suit of removing the headphone jacks on the later phone models. (I am looking at you Samsung, you’re a fucking hypocrite.)
So yeah if the server version is the only subscription based model, it might affect the regular versions eventually and most of us will see it as a “Fuck you! give me money!” move from Microsoft.
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That would be dumb if they decide to make it subscription based, they been making “free” stuff more available to the average person like how you can use a web based microsoft office suit. As much as google been fumbling the bag with rolling out their products to schools and such they still a huge threat to take the lower end computer market but i guess if you have a good chunk of market share you could just force a bunch of changes. They also haven’t at the moment targeted all the Mass Grave scripts that allow you to activate a bunch of products prob cause they don’t care about the niche market that enthusiasts make up.
Server versions I thought were already subscription based at least for Windows Server 2022. Also I find it funny when Microsoft does have a more free thing they kinda dominate the market more overtime compared to competition like with Teams and Visual Studio for coding. Nobody is even close when it comes to one IDE that is able to handle so many languages and tasks.
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Guys I have a question just in case if this thread is still alive. I currently made a new build for my aunt for her office use, and I know it’s not optimal due to the newer hardware but, how can I boot up her Windows 7 OS with the newer motherboard, RAM and SSD that I got for her? Because I am planning to migrate her OS from her HDD to her SSD yet I cannot do that since I cannot recall the method on how you boot up the OS with the newer hardware that I installed for her new build.
There are still some important files in her old drive, including a program that is very important for her use and I cannot risk just wiping that drive entirely for I still want her to use it while having her original OS intact, then find a way to upgrade her Windows 7 OS to Windows 10 while maintaining her original files.
I know it’s a waste of effort and time, and it can be tough, but I just hope there is a way to do so.
Did you check to make sure that the hardware you chose is supported by windows 7? Depending on the parts it may only be supported by windows 10 or later. Anything current will require windows 10 or later due to there being no driver support under windows 7. You should be able to access the files if you install windows 10 or 11 on a separate boot disk, and then reconnect the old drive. Make sure you do not have the old drive connected while installing the new OS to reduce the chances of the install attempting to allocate space on that drive.
Before you attempt what I listed above, double check the model of motherboard and CPU to see which OS versions they are compatible with.
Edit: Don’t forget that Windows 7 support ended at the beginning of 2020, so any hardware that came out after that would defiantly not have support. Also, remember that Windows 10 support will end in 2025, so you might want to use windows 11.
could just try booting from the old drive and if it works use drive cloning to copy everything to the new drive, and make sure it worked, then can run windows upgrade later.
That was the plan earlier, but apparently it’s no luck. The rig I built for my aunt didn’t detect the OS that is installed in the original she was using on her old rig. Yeah it’s probably a compatibility issue with the hardware not being supported by Windows 7 anymore. Looks like I have to install the primary OS in her main SSD instead, then Idk, get the files from her old drive?
That would be the only way to do it in this case. It shouldn’t have any issue reading the NTFS format on the old drive to access the files. Just be sure to use the same user name an password under the new OS so the credentials are the same to access the files. It shouldn’t be a problem, but I have had issues in the past when they don’t match. In the case of the software on the old drive, it might work if you keep the old drive installed and launch it from there, but not guaranties. Just make sure the old drive is not connected while installing the OS on the SSD to prevent any issues from popping up. Reconnect it after you get the new OS up and running.
Yeah I know, but right now I am still hesitant of installing it on my rig that’s all. And if I am going to install Windows 11, might as well get an entirely new SSD for that to happen and as well as do some tweaking for I am not really a fan of the usual configuration that Microsoft tends to with their OS.
I am talking about using it for your Aunt’s new PC to prevent having to deal with compatibility issues down the road.