The 216 is a solid choice so dont sweat it.
Personally im a bit of a fanboy 4000D airflow i built a lot of systems in that case, the only reason i have a 5000D is that the 4080 was too long for it, but its far being the only case on he market
Just to be sure as well, I also ordered its separated air dust filter which sucks for I think it would have been a better value if they have included it for the front panel in the first place. Minor complaint but the air dust filter I ordered is the color white since the stock for the black version have ran out, hoping the looks of my upcoming new case wouldn’t look weird overall.
And yes, most of the newer cards are either longer or thicker than the past generation cards, and here I thought my 3080 was already damn thick, I was wrong.
all I’ve heard are good things about the 216, was looking at one myself to replace my old Meshify C (1st gen) but wanted a bit bigger of a case and ended up going too big (Phanteks NV5 they were really generous calling it a mid tower case when its basically as big as one of my old corsair full towers 
)
Yeah I have decided with the 216, at first I thought it was just going to be the same as the 215 in terms of looks and basically just a retool of it. But boy I was wrong, for the 216 is even heftier and heavier than my 215, and I thought the 215 already was on the heavier side, I was wrong. Also when it comes to the looks, I prefer the 216 more, I got the non-RGB version therefore the downside of it not having a fan hub on stock but eventually I’ll get one separately, but even with the stock fans, damn this temperature readings are still good, not only that it’s not very noisy, compared to the fans I have installed on my 215, which is Deepcool TF120S, good fans but damn noisy.
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Folks…I uh…have a bit of a bad news. My PC was working overall fine during the previous days, but one day after I have done my work and got home, I have decided to turn on my PC in order to have some fun, but it stopped turning on and no POST at all. After that I have decided to take a night drive where I can get my spare PC for work so that I can troubleshoot my main PC just to seek out what the main problem is.
So I got home again at 10:30pm, started troubleshooting my PC and I will try to summarize it as best as I can.
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Removed the CPU on my main board and put it on the other board to test if the CPU is broken, it works fine on the other board.
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In order to be sure since my main CPU doesn’t have an APU, I’ve decided to use my GPU on the otherboard. Gladly enough it damn works fine as well.
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Used my main RAM kit on the other board with the CPU and GPU on it as well, not surprisingly it works just fine.
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I’ve decided to use my main power supply for the other board, and yeah it still turns on my PC. no PSU issue thank god.
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Used the other APU from the other board to my main board, along with its RAM kit. Oddly enough it worked fine for a second, until I have encountered issues such as the screen restarting, freezing boot and other weird shit.
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I have already updated my BIOS on the mainboard, along with the CMOS battery reset, unfortunately it didn’t work in the end.
Overall, I think it’s the my main board that is borked and I guess I have to get a replacement once I have saved up more money and it sucks overall. Also I have spent troubleshooting my PC from 10:30pm to damn 6 am, for I was doing the best I can to make it work again, alas it’s not destined to be.
If it was from a power brownout/dip, find the reset CMOS jumper which is usually near the battery. Turn it off, wait 15 seconds for the capacitor to drain, and then touch a flathead screwdriver on both pins and turn it on. Hold it 5 seconds, then turn off. I managed two PC repair shops here in Tampa which is the lightning capitol of the world. A brownout can make that exact thing happen, only way to wake it is the reset jumper on the board.
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Uh guys? Should I be worried about this? I mean I did installed recently my new motherboard as a replacement from my broken Gaming Plus board. I know I should not be worried since my system is still alright and working fine, but the red numbers are quite throwing me off a bit.
when not under load it doesn’t matter unless it’s over 100%
TLDR mobo Bios is lying about power so it can boost higher
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Yes just wind it out on a stress test for the CPU while that’s running. Something consistent and see where you land. Mine is 200% at idle but when a Passmark CPU test is on it, it centers to 100 then.
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Looks like solid testing to me.
Could be one of the sticks having dirty contacts (DDR4 can have that issue, DDR5 with fingerprints can be very unstable).
Temps are fine, Power is fine, ignore scary red number 
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Also I forgot to mention, I have my former MSI b550 gaming plus a last try again. I somehow managed to get it on with the other CPU and then I updated its BIOS at the latest version. After that I have decided to use my main CPU on it along with the other parts that used to be on it. What the hell it worked, it managed to boot.
Just for a sanity check though, I have decided to shut it down, and what did you know, after that shutdown, turning it on again, no POST. So yeah, right now I am using my Gigabyte B550 Aorus Elite AX V2 board, no debug LEDs unfortunately but it works just fine.
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All the RGB and displays, yet no useful debug info, I hate it…
IBM servers used to have these things in the front:
Quite nice to check for the usual suspects.
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That’s actually pretty nifty. I might get one for my board someday.
I am not sure if those panels in particular work on anything not-IBM.
There used to be add-in devices that sat on some system bus to display POST-information.
I don’t know what they call but it would have been cool to have an add-on like that for motherboards that never had a debug LED feature in the first place. It’s kind of funny when my very old motherboard which is the MSI B450M Bazooka Plus has a debug led and it still works to this day, with the exception of it lacking an IO shield. Not going to lie, the pre-installed IO shield on the new motherboards I have, is still throwing me off a bit since I have gotten used to the idea of the IO shield and motherboard separated.
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I bought new PC recently, Acer Predator Orion 7000. It is perfect for gaming
I hope you have adjusted the fan curves of your PC prebuild since I heard those ones like that can be a bit damn loud when under load or something. At least you got an awesome PC that is not so bad when it comes to it being upgradeable.
yes I’ve already done it. Thanks. Btw I found software on kms-tool.com for activation for Microsoft products for free. KMSPico supports activation of all versions of Windows, from Windows 7 to the latest Windows 11. That’s really convy. Now I can now enjoy the full functionality and license status of your Windows operating system or Office suite.
YESSS!!! The AMD Ryzen 8000GE APU has leaked! AMD hasn’t confirmed, but Asus has updated their CPU support page for AM5 boards and they show the GE APU. WooT!
I like modern computers and their calculating power. When my computer first came into my hands, all I could think about was what games I could install on it. Now, when I put together the latest build, I considered all aspects of modern technology and games were the least of my worries. For my work it is necessary for my computer not only to be fast, but also to be very productive and allow me to solve all the necessary tasks. For example, if earlier on the old computer opened the https://ultramining.com/en/crypto-calc/bitcoin/ yield calculator, the computer would freeze and overheat, but now it works perfectly.