I own the kit Buildzoid talked about. And like he says, it’s a great option for getting Samsung B-die for cheap. Many users were able to achieve CL14 at 3800 on Ryzen 5000, for that particular kit. Though I could only get CL16 to work.
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Wish I have more knowledge when it comes to overclocking things, for I am scared tinkering too much stuff on my build for I had my past experiences of my PC not booting up due to those methods of OC. I only run my kit with XMP and as for the CPU I just leave it as it is since you know I don’t want to risk too much and there are just days that you don’t want to worry too much and just use your PC.
There are plenty of good videos that explain how to do it. But with you being on a Ryzen system, there honestly isn’t any need to. There’s a good chance you’d end up losing performance because of how their boosting behavior works, coupled with just how little overhead there is for OC’ing.
And if you’ve really got some time on your hands:
The good thing about linux is it has so many options. Distros like Ubuntu are pretty much on par with Windows for usability once you get used to it, it’s just generally not as pretty (seriously linux developers, no-one thinks your bubble UIs are cool).
It’s getting better fast. The progress the developers of Pipewire are making is excellent and looks to solve a lot of issues that the majority of users had with linux audio on both the playback and recording side.
Guys believe me, I did what I could to make this cable management work with this case for it’s not a really a case for such easy cable management to be done. Also it’s not helping much when the stock cables of my PSU are too stiff and hard, meaning they are not so easy to shove it in under.
Some tips would be appreciated if there’s anything that can be done to improve this spagehtti mess.
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My cables look worse, so I am in no position to help here.
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It seems fine for me. My rig isn’t much better, and I think mostly the extensions are to blame. If you want something cleaner, either ditch them or use custom cables. But these are so expensive I really decided I’m fine with how my system is now.
Honestly, yours looks functional and tide, I would just be happy with it.
Since you have a modular PSU, you could order custom cables from CableMod, but they are pricey. Honestly I have the same problem and I’m going to order a new PSU and custom cables from CableMod.
My build so far.
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You’ve done a really good job, already. Heck of a lot better than mine.
I said to heck with it once I realized just how much of a pain the RGB was going be. And it’s behind a solid panel anyways; so out of sight, out of mind. 
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Oh god, I am glad I am not alone with this problem. xD
wow that’s actually pretty good from the back, and yeah you’re right about that, to get the best cable management is to get a custom cable but yeah I don’t have time for such expensive cables (Saying this to myself as I buy fucking pricey cables for IEMs. Hypocritical of me xD.)
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Also I bought a new fan for my Deepcool Assassin 3, since it’s 140mm fan does not let me close the glass panel. USB 3.0 for the pins are a pain in the ass to plug on the motherboard also the sleeves could have been managed well but this is how I can do it the right way.
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That gpu support looks intresting 
Yeah I think it’s more of an adjustable headphone stand. Well to be honest I am not so sure what I ordered I just looked up Anti-GPU sag stand and got this. Hey at least it works lol.
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@K4sh1ma cables look fine. I’d ditch that top fan that is toward the front of the case. those tend to mess with airflow for your cpu cooler and negatively affect temps.
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Basically I don’t need the top fans anymore? I mean temps wise, there are no issues with it so far and the temps are low enough for it to be safe at idle use. I will give it a try and run some tests to see on what you are saying can improve it, though it would ruin the looks a bit, not like it has any aesthetics in the first place anyway.
Just the front one. That’s the one that pulls air out of the case before it reaches the cooler. Or you could just pull the 3-pin/4-pin from the fan hub so it doesn’t spin and you’d still get the RGB and the aesthetic without having to worry about it pulling air from the cooler.
Edit: I think that would work. I’m not actually sure after having thought about it for a minute. That’s not something that people regularly do, as far as I’m aware. But it should work.
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I’ll keep that in mind, thanks for the tip. Will run some tests of it when I feel like opening my PC again.