Ya, that is a better product lens also fairly compact if i remember correctly.
Just keep in mind that 40mm tends to stretch things about a bit, it’s not a “bad thing” but it’s something to keep in mind.
Just FYI the good thing about product photography is that you don’t really need AF, so you can bargain hunt for old lenses, most Nikon lenses are overall really good. My personal favorite was the 60mm, it was very versatile, extremely sharp, and fairly cheap, even brand new (all version, both the D and the G are great)
For those contemplating getting a macro lens, just be aware that the ones in ~40-60mm focal lengths can have a drawback. That being to use the macro capabilities of those lenses can sometimes require annoyingly small distances from the front of your lens to your subject (working distance). Again, that’s just using the lens at or near its actual macro capabilities.
For obvious reasons this is less of a concern for someone doing product or other still life work than it would be for someone trying to take pictures of bugs or frogs. Even with inanimate objects though, needing to get an SLR-sized camera close to your subject can cause issues with practical things like having to always set up on the edge of a table or simply your camera/lens casting a shadow on your subject. There’s a reason those 100mm and longer macro lenses exist.
For taking photos somewhat quickly to post on the forums, but still have them look reasonably nice, I usually use one of these, with the flash head pointed all the way left/right, and often angled up towards the ceiling:
It’s no softbox, and it does mean you need a more DSLR-style camera that can sync with a flash, but it also means I can take a photo like this just on the floor of my living room with no other lighting setup:
Anyway, yeah, flashes/strobes (especially ones that can be used off-camera) are great! If you want to do photography, I’d say it’s like the first thing you should buy after buying your camera.
I’ll probably try to take something a bit more setup-y and product-y with the Eikon at some point, it’s such a beautiful headphone.
Actually there is a trigger that syncs with phones the Godox A1
However i wouldn’t recommend for most folks flash, a continuous light would be way better in so many ways, i can also be used for other things other than photography
For a cheap continuous light solution around the same price, you could go with an Aputure F7 and bounce it off of a board/reflector, but I don’t really agree that it would be “way better.” It’s different! Different amount of light, different style of setup and tweaking, it depends on what you need!
For novice users, a continuous light is way better, for a photographer its a matter of choice. the learning curve is much higher and the barrier to entry (owning a camera + a flash + a wireless trigger).
its something that you build up to since flash can give you a lot more options in certain things but its not something i recommend for someone who just wants to “show off” their audio gear. also a continuous light can be useful around the house
So fancied to try some experimental photography, I don’t have an indoor setup at all and only have my kit lens on my camera which isnt exactly the best but was just having fun trying alsorts of different things and gave this ago and the result was stunning.
In a pitchblack room, literally only using my phone torch as a light, I have done this.
ISO-100 F/5 0.8s exposure time at 34mm
Literally could not be happier what a stunning photo of my Moondrop Starfields!!!
Overall looks great, i like that you got the color and sparkle right, I love my starfield they dont get a lot of use just because they are so delicate
Two things i’d suggest to improve for next time
Background - while the uniform background is good its also very “Flat” in most cases you want something that would give the picture a little depth and support the subject - maybe have some small light source way in the back
positioning - having the IEMs mirrored is a little “dull”, giving either one a bit more of an angle adds a bit of intrest
But having said that its very will done and you should be very proud
A few more General tips to make your life a little easier for next time
Go Long - in most cases you want to shoot with the longest focal length you can shooting at 34mm is a little too wide and might distort the proportions, shooting with longer focal length will give you better separation and better proportions, and will let you get in closer in most cases (looks like you had to crop quite a bit). Though its improtant to note that shooting wide is a style choice and If you perefer it like that go for it.
Lights, Action! - if you want to make your life a little easier you can get a small IKEA led lamp, its very flexible and easy to manipulate
Up close and personal - a very inexpensive but good way to get a macro shot is using extension tubes , basiclly its something that sits between you camera body and the lens making you able to focus at very range. They cost 20-40$ normally (just get the one without Auto focus - really no need for it when shooting inanimate objects)
P.S you have a bit of banding in the darks (im assuming you tried to open up the darker parts of the image )
