I do not have those 2.
What about the sound of the JA3 compared to the M1?
Navigation is quite slow. My Internet speed is pretty fast so not an issue on that end. Please see if that can be fixed.
No difference. As amp/dacs objectively are. Go for the cheaper JA3 as that is the one I can see lasting longer than the M1.
Although there is a new JA3 actually.
Price on taobao is like 1 usd more for the newer JA3T.
Might be cuz I got the cheapest plan for it. 
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I’m thinking about going for the Tiandirenhe CS Pro CS46L41 instead. Has higher output power, 70mw @ 32ohm.
The main appeal with the JA3/M1 is the tiny form factor. if that is not needed and you really want more power for the sake of more “power”, then you should get the Tempotec Sonata HD 2.
I got a Moondrop Click when my desktop PC (a standard SFF office desktop) had an atrocious 3.5mm jack (all kinds of noise, low volume). Maybe I had a discount but it was about $10 and I have zero complaints with the sound quality.
Sorry just looked them up before finishing the post, seem to be $20 most places. Also can’t find squat about its power output.
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Read the reviews, did not like what they say. Hence waiting for the CS Pro CS46L41
(has an LED that can only be seen in darker environment, not usable in real life scenarios.)
Will mention that there is a pretty BIG problem which can be a dealbreaker. You NEED to be able to use some form of either pre-amp or software volume control in your music app because it actually has bass clipping/distortion in stock. You need to set a negative preamp/software-volume gain and then it does not have that issue and sounds like the UTWS3.
I tested both with my android phone in UAPP/Neutron with local files and even streamed on Spotify, and on my PC with local music on JRIVER and issue is consistent.
If you are planning to use the BT20XS with a streaming app like Spotify, I would advise against it, as Spotify (to my knowledge, I just downloaded Spotify for verification) does not have any ways to change the preamp or any other software-volume control. (the BT20XS does not have an app like the Fiio UTWS3/5 either so that is not an option to fix it, and I am not sure if TRN even does software updates either…)
If you are using it on local music then you will be able to use apps that can adjust the preamp/software-volume and thus, it is viable in that scenario.
Will comment more after a week or so of real life use.
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Oh no! 
(10char)
Did TRN finally make the case slightly bigger?
I really wanted to like previous BT20 iterations but none of them allowed me to pair them with any of my IEMs - the case simply wouldn’t close, there was so little space inside.
Even iFi Go pod, which aims for powering TOTL earphones, features a case so small that universal CE Aurum with SpinFit tips made it impossible to close.
The only TWS adapter that worked for me in this regard is FiiO UTWS.
The thing is many consumers judge tws partly by the size of the case: the smaller the better.
The problem I have with my bt20 is the hook is too tight. It hurts my head, makes the seal more difficult and creates some discomfort. I should try the hair-dryer trick.
It works with the Ikko OH10 and the CCA CRA (only iems I tried yet). You do need to remove the usb cable in the little pocket for it to close without resistance though.
The hooks are more comfortable for me on them, than the UTWS3.
Someone graphed my GAS2. Guess volume matching with my own ears works just fine (along with resistance matching). 
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Any chance you can graph all your buds like this? The “normal” IEM way? The one you have with the straight line up to 500 Hz and then it just goes downhill are confusing (for me at least).
That way does not work at all, and is extremely memey. (extreme inconsistency.)
Example.
(the 3 graphs are the same bud.)
the ones graphed in my squig is done via a sealed method. (using earbud → iem adapter.)
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We need the deets!
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And I was ready to buy my first Riku bud, need more info on gen 3 
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