Streamer/DDC Showdown: Pi2AES vs Sotm SMS200 Ultra Neo

Wow thanks for the quick reply… may be the new PSAudio board might be the solution?

Thanks

Yep! The Spring 2 follows the PS Audio standard for i2s pinout so the pi2aes PS Audio adapter will ensure everything is working properly

Thanks for the great documentation on your comparisons. Based on your experience with the SPS-500, I kept my eye out for one on the used market. After months of waiting I found one for a good price. I can confirm that it makes a pronounced difference in the presentation of the PI2AES.

Like you, had a Holo Audio DAC for a couple years ago (Spring LV2) and loved it. I sold it, though, to make some other changes to my system and am using a Schiit Bifrost 2 which I have found super entertaining, but quite source-sensitive. Crappy USB sounds like crappy USB. Ditto in spades for SPDIF.

I had been using an ALLO DigiOne with it for a while. It was quite good, but I found it got a bit tiring with some recordings. I switched to the Pi2AES and it was a real step up in quality in the system. The staging, instrument separation, and overall balance were all dramatically improved by the PI2AES.

I picked up my SPS-500 last weekend, gave it a day to settle in and then spent some time listening. Overall, the sound is more “integrated” with the SPS-500. Everything has a greater ease, the midrange is silky smooth and full of information, instrument separation is better, staging is more convincing, the treble does not have a hint of glare to it. More than ever, my speaker now disappear like they would with the Holo Spring and DSD uprezing.

I do find that it is a hair on the soft side now, but that might be my ears being accustomed to the Meanwell PSU. I have a nice Ghent DC cable on the way which I understand is an important part of the chain.

In any event, thank-you for your review. It led me to a very constructive addition to my system

W10 Server (Roon)>LAN>PI2AES (SPS-500)>Schiit BF2>HEED Obelisk SI 3>Harbeth P3ESRXD + REL T7i

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Looking at this as a solution to play around with. The Pi2AES that is. I’m a complete Pi noob, what’s the consensus on OS I should go with? I’m technical with PC and networking backgrounds but honestly I just would rather things to work than spend time manually configuring.

Just to make sure I’m on the same page. I need the Pi2AES, a Pi 4, a case and a 24V power supply and preferably a 5v power supply for the Pi itself.

Que mas? Any kind of thermal issues need addressing? Heat sink kit or anything along those lines?

Heya. I recommend a Pi3 B+ if you don’t already own a Pi 4. And here’s a thread about the install and such:

My OS is RopieeeXL but there are other options.

Cheers :+1:

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RopieeeXL is typically the easiest. Pretty much flash and go. Though the only thing i’d say: Make sure you connect the network BEFORE turning on the pi. Otherwise it gets a bit fussy on first boot.

Dietpi is also good but a bit more involved. I’d say go ropieeeXL unless you have a reason not to.

For power, the ideal solution is actually to use a single 5v PSU to power both. You can bypass the onboard 24v->5v switcher by connecting to the pins directly as shown in the pic below.

Just need a DC terminal and male to female jumper wires. Both of which are on amazon for a few dollars.

Though whilst this is the best in terms of sound/power cleanliness, you can also either:

  • Leave the power jumper on the board, connect a 24v PSU to the pi2aes, and it will power both the pi2aes and the pi.
  • Remove the power jumper from the board, connect a 24v PSU to the pi2aes, and a 5v psu to the pi itself
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This seems like the cleanest route. Wonder why the Pi2AES folks wouldn’t go with a solution like this right from the start. Already have a 5V Linear PS handy so, this settles it. Thanks.

Apparently its so that a single 24v PSU can power the pi, pi2aes, and the addon DAC board they make.

I agree though, given how 24v PSU’s are pretty hard to come by it would have been nice if there was at least the option of buying a 5v version. Much of the pi2aes’ target market is people seeking for every little improvement to their chain. And so having to use workarounds to use a LPS is a bit frustrating.

That being said, the pi2aes is exceptional regardless, but I do wish this was changed

This is the closest thread I can ask this question in… shot in the dark but might as well. Can anyone interpret the following Sotm Ultra Neo label? I got the easy parts. It’s a NEO, with the conversion to 12v, US plug. But does the rest of the label indicate that this one has the cap upgrade and the Silver cabling? No idea what the eABS means.

EDIT: never mind, answered my own question.

About the sMS-200ultra Special Edition

For audiophiles who are looking for the best sound quality with their sMS-200ultra, the sMS-200ultra Crux Audio Special Edition further upgrades this fantastic network player with the addition of eABS-200 EMI absorber sheet (eliminating EMI noise), replacing internal wires with 7N-UPOCC silver or copper wires, and upgrading existing capacitors with EVOX capacitors.

The sMS-200ultra Crux Audio Special Edition already includes the sCLK-EX clock — the heart of this superior digital audio equipment. This new combination brings dramatic sound improvement.

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I just bought the Singxer SU-6 DDC. I almost got the Pi2AES, but I don’t wanna deal with Raspberry Pi setup + wireless tech.

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It’s actually pretty straight forward. This guide covers just about everything you’re going to need and I’ll help you with the rest.

I dove head first into the bridge idea and getting all music endpoints out of the PC. I picked up this SOtM but apparently I got lucky, the seller didn’t know it was a special edition, neither did I until I just caught the details on the label. Should have it tomorrow. I’m keeping the Pi2AES for my desktop and this for my 2 channel stereo.

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That Singxer looks pretty sweet though!

It uses a super cap system to power the unit. Pretty good for the price. I picked it up on Amazon for $585.

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Hi @M0N , sorry for digging out an old post but can I ask a couple of questions regarding this part of the chain (is it still called transport?) now that I have almost built the rest? I generally find your advice really helpful and thank you so much in advance.

Is Pi2AES a better option than, say, other Pi-based streamers such as the Allo Digi+ or DDC such as Singxer SU2/SU6? For one it’s probably cheaper (only with Meanwell PSU).

Regarding better power supply of Pi2AES, is it possible to, say, get an SBooster 24V or equivalent and split it into two, one for the Pi2AES and one for RNHP? (Trying to save a socket and a bit of the cost here)

Lastly, at the moment I am just using a MacBook (and I use some streaming services such as Qobuz but mostly ALAC files in iTunes ripped from CDs and I don’t have a strong need for hi-res tbh) with USB, will a solution like Pi2AES or a DDC make a noticeable sonic improvement?

Many thanks again!

Most of your questions will be answered here.

Most of the sonic benefits from the Pi2AES will come from it being a network bridge where you can get off of USB. A DDC on the other hand may be a better solution if your plan is to get music out of a PC via USB. BTW since you mention having the BF2. The Unisom USB is pretty good, but it’s still bettered by the BNC or AES output from the Pi2AES into my Yggdrasil.

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Cheers, will read more into that.

Hi @GoldenOne,

I stumbled upon your review of Chord M Scaler vs HQPlayer recently, and I have been learning a lot from your other reviews on other DACs / audio equipment so far!

A few questions for you…

  1. Would you be sharing your steps in building the Pi2AES (hardware & software) some time soon?
  2. Regarding the RPi4, did you find USB 2.0 or 3.0 to be better (noise, jitter) when feeding a DAC? If the DAC matters, I’m interested in how it works with my Chord Mojo from Moode right now, as for future DACs I plan on exploring the I2S route.

Thanks!

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Here you go:

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thanks! i also noticed db_Cooper’s post right after replying so i’ll read up on that as well.

i’m most interested in how to get the custom 5V PSU support as that would make the iFi iPower X a great option to power the devices

Take a look at this picture, it’s pretty much all you have to do. I glued that adapter from the inside when I built mine so there are no external wires. It works very well and one LPS powers everything. The board is clearly labeled as well so it’s hard to screw things up.